Hello, as some of you saw from my last post I recently purchased my first S&W (model 63). All of my other shooting experience is on the much larger Marine weapon systems. After spending some time on the range I have a few questions. the issues I have are

1) The gap between the cylinder and firing cone is uneven at about .0025 on top and .0040 on the bottom. Is this a problem?

2) After about 100 rounds the cylinder begins to stick occasionally and wont cycle right in double or single action without opening and closing the cylinder.

A more experience S&W shooter at the range informed me that this coupled with a slightly shaky cylinder at full lock-up (No lead shaving) indicated that I needed a "Tune up". If this is correct, what parts are required? and can a local smith handle this? Thank you for your time, and insight.

Optimal B/C gap (IMHO) is an even .004" - .006" which is large enough to avoid binding issues and yet not too large to cause any significant velocity loss or lead spitting. The problem is that the OPTIMAL numbers are rarely perfect as S&W's "in spec range" is quite a bit larger than mine. At least yours is on the tight side so it is easily adjustable by a qualified Smith. Before adjusting the B/C Gap, make SURE you do not have an ill fitting cylinder, yoke, etc. It would be a shame to ruin a revolver over a mis- diagnosed problem.

That said, I have seen variations in top and bottom measurements over the years and as long as the variation is not too great (like yours) it will usually not cause a problem. You might have to straighten yours out because of the tighter measurement, but again, before taking any tools to your revolver make sure the other parts are correctly fitted and true.

The problem with my 63 was after shooting about 100rds , the build-up of waxy lube in the rim counterbore wouldn't let the cartridges seat all the way , and the rear face of the cases would drag against the frame. A little chamfer on the inner edge of the chambers helped , though the chambers were very tight to begin with and some ammo just wouldn't go.

S&W .22s are known for having tight chambers. This is a very common issue you are experiencing. Just bring a .243 bore brush to the range and scrub the chambers every couple of dozen rounds. Just a couple of quick passes through each one should do the trick. Maybe bring a small bottle of solvent with you. A couple of my K22s exhibit the same issue. Avoid any "smithing" unless you really need to make adjustments.

The sticking is not an uncommon problem. S&W chambers are minimal. Keep them clean and you should have no problems. As bigmoose mentioned, a slightly larger brush will fit the chambers tightly and clean out the build up. Solvent helps. 63"s are great little guns and so much fun to shoot.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

quite simply yes, it is the "nature of the beast" with any 'stainless steel' revolver....gaps, clearances, will vary, and as long as there is NO splatter ( blow by) not an issue, as for the "tightening", stainless steel expands and contractd at a different rate than say 4140 chrome-moly steel, soooo,can be an issue as to binding...my GUESS is the gun needs to be "gone over, deburred"...look for rough spots in the chambers,on the recoil shield and other spaces that may 'need' it...for the most part we would just SHOOT it, keep it lubed ( and clean in between sessions) and use ammo that WORKS for you...each gun is on an individual basis as to "issues" and addresss accordingly, hard to "see it" over the computer...........as for the "gap" that is an acceptible range, and just may need the rear of the barrel to be 'squared" off , perpendicular to the 'bore'.........nice gun, use it enjoy it give it a GOOD 'break in'....

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dan
NRA Benefactor,PMA

Thanks for the advice. I did use a bore brush every 50 or so rounds to ensure proper seating of the rounds, but I will try some different ammo (when I can find it).

I've found that Federal rimfire ammunition extracts easier than the other brands I've tried when shot in my model 63.