Need help identifying frame size on 38sp mod 10-7

SWR · #1 10-25-2013, 11:04 PM

Hello, Im trying to identify the frame size of my 38 sp.
I collected the info requested to help out on the process.
Its a nickle plated model 10-7 six shot with a 2" barrel it has 3 screws in the

I'v had this revolver for about 22 years and it has stayed in the closet through 90% of my ownership. I took it out last year and got new grips (I did save the original wooden ones)

I'm trying to find out if it is a K frame or if it could possibly be a N frame. The cylinder has a "N" as does the frame under the grip on both sides. (I'm trying to post photos now)

Thank you for any details or help.
Tammy

jakenov3 · #2 10-25-2013, 11:07 PM

the N is for nickle , you have a K frame

SWR · #3 10-25-2013, 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jakenov3

the N is for nickle , you have a K frame

Thank you. That explanation did cross my mind but I dismissed it. I didnt think they would go through trouble to stamp the code for the finish.
Thanks again,
Tammy

JP@AK · #4 10-26-2013, 12:49 AM

Tammy
The reason the N is stamped on the frame and cylinder (the frame stamp is on the left side of the grip frame under the stocks) is so that the finish shop knows what finish to put on the parts when it is sent down to them after the initial fitting (nickel instead of blue in your example). You see the same thing on the N frame Highway Patrolman - the parts were identical to the Model 27 which got a bright blue finish, so parts destined to be assembled as an HP (Model 28) were marked with an H. This way the finish shop could put the satin blue finish on the HP cylinder and frame. The barrels didn't get marked usually because the 4" barrel with a Baughman ramp was normally for an HP, not a Model 27.
I hope this clears the matter up for you.
Jack

JP@AK · #5 10-26-2013, 12:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SWR

I did save the original wooden ones

Good move! Not everyone has the foresight to do this.
Jack

SWR · #6 10-26-2013, 11:02 AM

Even though it looks as if my question has been answered I finaly got some photos taken that I thought I'd share.
I also looked at my wooden grips closer and see that they even stamped them on the insides to match the serial #. Quality and details sure was a standard with S&W.

Jaymo · #7 10-26-2013, 12:03 PM

Where's the "green with envy" smiley?
Nice K frame, Tammy

SWR · #8 10-26-2013, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JP@AK

Tammy
The reason the N is stamped on the frame and cylinder (the frame stamp is on the left side of the grip frame under the stocks) is so that the finish shop knows what finish to put on the parts when it is sent down to them after the initial fitting (nickel instead of blue in your example). You see the same thing on the N frame Highway Patrolman - the parts were identical to the Model 27 which got a bright blue finish, so parts destined to be assembled as an HP (Model 28) were marked with an H. This way the finish shop could put the satin blue finish on the HP cylinder and frame. The barrels didn't get marked usually because the 4" barrel with a Baughman ramp was normally for an HP, not a Model 27.
I hope this clears the matter up for you.
Jack

Thank you Jack for that information. It sure helps envision the process that took place to manufacture these revolvers.

SWR · #9 10-26-2013, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaymo

Where's the "green with envy" smiley?
Nice K frame, Tammy

This one?

Thanks Jaymo, This was my first hand gun and is currently my only.
I am looking to get something else in the near future, but just not sure as to what it will be at moment.. so I guess you could say I'm window shopping.

JP@AK · #10 10-26-2013, 02:42 PM

Tammy
Very nice looking 2" Model 10. I see far fewer 2" M&Ps around than 4" or even 6". Yours is a dandy! Nice nickel on it, too.
One small suggestion - if you insist on keeping those Goodyear grips on it, be sure to remove them and wipe the frame down with a silicon or oiled rag after each outing. Rubber stocks are notorious for accumulating moisture under them. You don't want to have that beautiful nickel finish ruined by moisture.

As to acquiring additional S&W revolvers - I also have a couple suggestions. How about a Model 17 .22 rimfire? And a Model 14 .38 Special. These are two of S&W's best efforts and are readily available on the market. They are among my favorite guns and I can't imagine going through life without at least one or two of each. Something to think about.

Jack

SWR · #11 10-26-2013, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JP@AK

Tammy
Very nice looking 2" Model 10. I see far fewer 2" M&Ps around than 4" or even 6". Yours is a dandy! Nice nickel on it, too.
One small suggestion - if you insist on keeping those Goodyear grips on it, be sure to remove them and wipe the frame down with a silicon or oiled rag after each outing. Rubber stocks are notorious for accumulating moisture under them. You don't want to have that beautiful nickel finish ruined by moisture.

As to acquiring additional S&W revolvers - I also have a couple suggestions. How about a Model 17 .22 rimfire? And a Model 14 .38 Special. These are two of S&W's best efforts and are readily available on the market. They are among my favorite guns and I can't imagine going through life without at least one or two of each. Something to think about.

Jack

Thank you Jack and thank you for the tip about removing the grips and wiping the frame down with oil to keep the moisture at bay under the grips. I didnt think about that when I got the rubber grips. I was just trying to find something that had a comfortable feel and spread my fingers out a little bit. now it makes me wonder if I should put the originals back on.

I dont know exactly how old this revolver is but I stated earlier I'v had it at least 22 years and I had never removed the original wooden grips til last year and thats when I discovered an area that I thought was just dirty or some type of adhesive....but sad to say it wasnt. It had an area under the grip that now I assume moisture had got to it and caused a problem with the nickel finish. I guess the best I can do is prevent future damage by making sure I take better care and wipe it down with oiled rag.

It makes me wonder if by me keeping it in a closet all these years thinking I was keeping safe from environmental elements, that I was actually causing more harm.... or the damage could have been there when I bought it years ago.

Here is a photo of the area where the damage is. As you can see the other side looks fine.