Has anyone here tried a J-Frame cylinder switch on a model 31 or 32, from .32 S&W Long to .32 H&R Magnum? I know that some people have re-chambered theirs to .32 H&R, but some have been concerned about pressures. Somewhere downstairs in the workshop I have a cylinder and bbl. from a 632 that I was going to marry to a Model 60 someday, but I got a good deal today on a 3" Model 31-1 that might make a nice pinto 3" with just a cylinder swap and re-timed as necessary.

Thoughts or recommendations?

I assume you realize you would also need a barrel in .32 on that Mod 60. You would need to know the exact measurements of the 32 cylinder as compared to the Mod 60 window. Since you would be needing to also install a barrel, you could have the headspace set then.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Forgot to indicate that that I had the 632 barrel also, but it's marked "Airweight" as well. Don't know if I should switch both out, giving me what amounts to a 631 2" weight-wise, leave the current barrel & make a 3" fixed sight .32 Magnum pinto (cylinder only), or get a 4" 30/31 barrel and make a fixed sight 4" and call it "M&P Mini-Me". Somehow, I think a 3" 32 Mag would be a fun little gun with a little more umph.

Well, the gods semi-smiled on me today. Got a chance to get to the workshop while momma was away, and do a a little gun work. Built a CMMG 9mm AR lower so I can take the mag block out of a regular lower, and then tried the 632 cylinder swap. The good news is it fits right in the 31-1 frame and times up perfectly, but has a little end shake. I either need to get some shims (which I'm not fond of), or stretch the yoke; if I do that, the original cylinder will not likely fit back in, as it has no endshake to speak of. The stainless yoke that came with the 632 cylinder fits, but needs adjusting to allow the center pin to line up and lock (doable). I also need a longer extractor rod and center pin, as the 632 cylinder is set up with the 2" rod, and I need a 3/4" rod and pin. Should I get a longer Blued rod or Stainless? I kinda like just the stainless cylinder only look, but if I adjust the stainless yoke and use it, it looks funny (to me). Thoughts/suggestions?

Sounds like a good project please keep us posted on your progress .

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Hue 68 noli me tangere

Opinions? Sure, we always have opinions. Are they of value? That's hard do say. I can't really see the revolver all that well from my house here in Tucson. Still . . .

Were I you, the easily reversible shims would be the answer. Keeping the original frame and yoke together will not only look nicer but allow you to return to "normal" if you discover some future roadblock or just don't like the way your new stainless "Pinto" shoots.

Admittedly, my only swaps have been installing Titanium cylinders in place of stainless in ordinary J-frames to drop the weight of each significantly. Everything fit perfectly, a tribute to the consistent dimensions of S&W MIM parts, for sure.

Got a chance to get back into the shop and swapped the 2" stainless Rod with the regular 3" blue rod. Needs a slightly longer center pin, but is function, for sure. Think I kinda like just the stainless cylinder only look.

Tried 3 different grips; I'm thinking the Bianchi's. Was surprised that the stock grips are numbered to the gun this late of mfgr.

Attached Images

	31-1 3 in. Stock Grips (1).jpg (80.1 KB, 32 views)
	31-1 3 in. J Tgt Grips.jpg (81.6 KB, 29 views)
	31-1 3 in. Bianchi Lightning Grips.jpg (82.9 KB, 27 views)