gubowner
Member
Hey guys, I'm pretty new to the forum. Just wondering the pluses and minuses of dry firing S&W revolvers. Is it harmful or OK?
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Dry fire
- Thread starter gubowner
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It's not only OK, it's recommended.
Cheapest way to learn the trigger and smooth the action. Look up dry-fire drills.
Just insure there is NO live ammo around.
Cheapest way to learn the trigger and smooth the action. Look up dry-fire drills.
Just insure there is NO live ammo around.
Rpg
Member
There is no reason not to dry fire a center fire S&W revolver as much as physically possible.
You won't hurt the revolver.
You will gain significant skill.
You don't need snap caps: they are desirable only in double (two barrel) shotguns and double rifles.
Dry fire is very desireable.
No negatives.
You won't hurt the revolver.
You will gain significant skill.
You don't need snap caps: they are desirable only in double (two barrel) shotguns and double rifles.
Dry fire is very desireable.
No negatives.
Well, let's qualify this a bit. Do not dry fire your rimfire S&W revolvers without snap caps!
I know that Rpg wrote "centerfire." I just want to drive home the point.
I know that Rpg wrote "centerfire." I just want to drive home the point.
Sgt 127
Member
I've dry fired Smith revolvers thousands of times. I doubt it will ever hurt a thing.
That said, there's no harm in dropping in some fired cases or snap caps.
A very old and wise gunsmith once told me, if I give you a piece of railroad track, a ball peen hammer and you spend days just tapping it over and over in the same spot, you will eventually dent it. That energy has to go somewhere.
That said, there's no harm in dropping in some fired cases or snap caps.
A very old and wise gunsmith once told me, if I give you a piece of railroad track, a ball peen hammer and you spend days just tapping it over and over in the same spot, you will eventually dent it. That energy has to go somewhere.
Thanks for the quick replies. I have been dry firing my center fire Smiths,27-2,25-9,28-2,19-4,three 19-3, 65-4,586-3 but never my17-3. Just didn't want to harm them in any way. Before I purchase I always ask if it's ok to pull the trigger. I have seen other post wear it was stated that the gun had never been dry fired but i think it was because it was never fired and some how that could effect it's value.
I have punched the primer out of fired cases and then filled the remaining depression with silicone. It give the firing pin something to hit.
Skeetr57
Member
I have read the caution about not dry firing a S&W .22 RF many times, but over the last 50 years, I have dry fired all of my RF hand ejectors many times with no ill effects. and I have never seen a .22 RF S&W hand ejector with a peened chamber or firing pin mark. They were designed so that the firing pin does not impact the cylinder recess. I have seen other cheaper revolvers and other guns with peened chambers, though.
kitman
Member
Not mine
I do not dry fire none of mine.And ask people looking at them to please not to do this.But I am sort of 'quare'.
kitman
I do not dry fire none of mine.And ask people looking at them to please not to do this.But I am sort of 'quare'.
kitman
Bajadoc
US Veteran
Not dry firing is like not using a ratchet for fear of wearing out the gears.
Alk8944
US Veteran
Well I will give a dissenting opinion. First I will acknowledge that S&W will tell you that it is OK to dry-fire the center-fire guns. This is true, especially from their perspective. There is no damage that will be done by dry-firing that can't be repaired, and S&W sells parts and service!
That said, here is a list of the damage than can be done by excessive dry-firing. This will cover both hanner and frame mounted firing pins, so don't say things like "That can't happen with my gun because it doesn't have a hammer nose rivet." I am giving you credit for being able to make this distinction on your own.:
Peening/burring of hammer nose bushing
Loosening of hammer nose rivet
Breakage of firing pin
Breakage/damage to firing pin retractor spring
Breakage of hammer stud
Breakage of trigger stud
Burring of cylinder stop notches
Loosening of screws
In the years I have been working on S&W revolvers I have observed all of these, some to my own guns when I was young and dumb and bought into the "Dry-firing won't do any damage" baloney! Neither commercial snap caps nor home made improvisations will give the same cushioning effect that a primer does. There is more shock imposed on the hammer and trigger studs by dry-firing than by shooting the gun. Not to mention new owners will often shoot fewer than 100 rounds a week, but dry-fire the gun hundreds or even thousands of times between shooting sessions. Also, the vibrations imposed on the gun by dry-firing are more severe than by shooting. It is this vibration, coupled with inadequate tightening of the fasteners, that results in frequent loosening of the sideplate screws and thumbpiece nut.
Go ahead and dry-fire all you want! But when these things befall your pet remember someone did tell you once what sort of breakage you can expect from excessive dry-firing!
That said, here is a list of the damage than can be done by excessive dry-firing. This will cover both hanner and frame mounted firing pins, so don't say things like "That can't happen with my gun because it doesn't have a hammer nose rivet." I am giving you credit for being able to make this distinction on your own.:
Peening/burring of hammer nose bushing
Loosening of hammer nose rivet
Breakage of firing pin
Breakage/damage to firing pin retractor spring
Breakage of hammer stud
Breakage of trigger stud
Burring of cylinder stop notches
Loosening of screws
In the years I have been working on S&W revolvers I have observed all of these, some to my own guns when I was young and dumb and bought into the "Dry-firing won't do any damage" baloney! Neither commercial snap caps nor home made improvisations will give the same cushioning effect that a primer does. There is more shock imposed on the hammer and trigger studs by dry-firing than by shooting the gun. Not to mention new owners will often shoot fewer than 100 rounds a week, but dry-fire the gun hundreds or even thousands of times between shooting sessions. Also, the vibrations imposed on the gun by dry-firing are more severe than by shooting. It is this vibration, coupled with inadequate tightening of the fasteners, that results in frequent loosening of the sideplate screws and thumbpiece nut.
Go ahead and dry-fire all you want! But when these things befall your pet remember someone did tell you once what sort of breakage you can expect from excessive dry-firing!
The questions about dry firing come up from time to time and some
posters are quick to say that dry firing a gun thousands of time won't
hurt it. I can't see how any rational person can believe this. A gun is
a mechanical device and is subject to wear just like anything else. It's
great to have faith in these well made revolvers but to think they are
somehow impervious to wear is ridiculous. I never dry fire any of my
S&Ws and cannot imagine where the desire to sit around snapping a
gun thousands of times comes from. Maybe age plays a part. I was
taught not to dry fire any gun when I was very young, many years ago.
posters are quick to say that dry firing a gun thousands of time won't
hurt it. I can't see how any rational person can believe this. A gun is
a mechanical device and is subject to wear just like anything else. It's
great to have faith in these well made revolvers but to think they are
somehow impervious to wear is ridiculous. I never dry fire any of my
S&Ws and cannot imagine where the desire to sit around snapping a
gun thousands of times comes from. Maybe age plays a part. I was
taught not to dry fire any gun when I was very young, many years ago.
Alk8944
US Veteran
This is NOT a good analogy! Using the ratchet and shooting the revolver are analogous. No problem, they wear you fix them or replace them.
Putting a socket on the ratchet and sitting, holding the socket and spinning the wrench just to hear the ratchet buzz, this is analogous to dry-firing the revolver. You don't think this exercise would in some way improve the function of the ratchet wrench, do you??????????????? All it does for the revolver is impose unnecessary wear. Does this "smooth the action"? Of course it does, because you are wearing on the working surfaces. But you are still adding unnecessarily to the total wear on the revolver and shortening its' service life in both age and round count.
I occasionally dry fire my old revolver, but use snap caps, just to be on the safe side. (I think my old revolver has a different firing pin mechanism than more modern S&W revolvers.)
Here is S&W's official position on the issue:
"Q: Can I dry fire my Smith & Wesson?
A: Yes, except for the .22 caliber pistols which includes models 22A, 22S, 422, 2206, 2214, 2213 and 41.
.22 caliber revolvers such as models 17, 43, 63, 317 and 617 also should not be dry fired.
Q: Why can't I dry fire my .22 pistol or revolver?
A: Dry firing a S&W .22 pistol or revolver will cause damage to the firing pin."
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...750001_750051_757815_-1_757814_757812_image#2
Here is S&W's official position on the issue:
"Q: Can I dry fire my Smith & Wesson?
A: Yes, except for the .22 caliber pistols which includes models 22A, 22S, 422, 2206, 2214, 2213 and 41.
.22 caliber revolvers such as models 17, 43, 63, 317 and 617 also should not be dry fired.
Q: Why can't I dry fire my .22 pistol or revolver?
A: Dry firing a S&W .22 pistol or revolver will cause damage to the firing pin."
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...750001_750051_757815_-1_757814_757812_image#2
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There are always a few people who have eccentric views. IMHO, people who advocate not dry firing revolvers are in this category. Yes, dry firing will wear the gun some, but what is it for to look at or use? I've always dry fired my S&W revolvers whenever I feel the need. All competitive shooters dry fire to hone their skills with trigger control and sight alignment. I've never damaged any of my revolvers. The only revolvers I wouldn't dry fire would be collectibles. I'm no collector, in the strict sense, I'm a shooter. Guns are tools. I try to keep them in top condition, but not using them to fire or dry fire is something I can't imagine. I've heard of top PPC shooters who have worn out guns dry firing, but I can't imagine how much that would take. Some folks actually practice drawing their revolvers and loading (using dummy ammo) with speed strips and/or speed loaders. OH THE HORROR! If your goal is to become proficient with your revolver and increase your marksmanship skills, then dry fire the heck out of it. If your goal is to polish and wax your revolver, put it in the safe and take it out once and a while and look at it and caress it, then all hope is lost! 
I would also color the head of the empty case just to be sure you don't ever load live rounds and think you still have the empties in there. Magic marker green works well.
Golphin
Member
Must be why the Heritage revolvers directions caution to never dry fire them. I have one and it was cheap and a blast but I do remember reading that in the paperwork. They are worth every bit what they cost though in my opinion and of course they don't cost much.
The only S&W revolvers you should never dry are S&W 22LR revolvers because you will damage the camber area. That said pristine collectible revolvers should be kept pristine because every cycle adds to the wear like the turn line on the cylinder and the internals. The rest dry fire away as it won't hurt a center fire pistol.
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The Real Hawkeye
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Dry fire is how I do the vast majority of my training with my double action revolvers. The best instruction on this method is found if Fast And Fancy Revolver Shooting, by Ed McGivern.
That said, if you have a hammer mounted firing pin, use snap caps or risk damage to the firing pin and/or firing pin hole through which the firing pin goes to contact the primer. I damaged the firing pin hole on one of my Model 10s doing dry fire drills absent snap caps. The edges peened outwards in the direction of the rims, preventing rotation of the cylinder when loaded. I had to have a smith fix it.
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