Car wax for stopping oxidation on Stainless guns?

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rajbcpa

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I bought a 1972 Model 66 stainless gun in very good shape a few months ago. Recently, I took some fine grit Simonize polish and an electric polishing wheel and polished the gun for about 20 minutes.

I was very surprised at how much black oxidation came off that gun. It looks amazing now.

So, to my question. If I use car wax on the gun now will this keep it from oxidizing? If not, is there another product that would work?
 
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I use the Simi chrome polish with a soft rag.
Why is it oxidizing?
Are you ccw it?
I notice with an in the pants holster a stainless finish can get a film on it.
One thing to prevent it is wipe it down every night with a silicone cloth. And switch holsters everyday so it can dry out. Our body sweat can cause this. You can get an outside pancake holster too.
Once it's cleaned up with the Simi chrome polish it should be ok. I still wipe it down with a silicone cloth.
 
car wax

I have been using car wax for 30 years on my blued gun that I carry out in the weather. what you are seeing is not oxidation, it is metal you are removing from the gun with the polishing wheel. I use a buffing wheel on knives I make, but never on a gun, just use a soft cloth baby diaper without any poo on it, just use mother's mag polish.
 
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Back in the day we used car wax to keep our blued service revolvers from rusting too quickly. Our guns were exposed to all kinds of weather and the wax did help keep them looking good.
 
Amother funny!!!!!

NZshooter said:
That's a new one. But how to clean the gun after using the diaper?
Click to expand...
:D

Oh, dear, that's so funny, I was just recovering from a very funny line in another thread and then there's this...... :D

Y'all are killin' me today.....I'm cryin' from laughin'....

On a serious note, yes, I notice that my pocket carry guns sometimes get a film on them. Someone on this Forum explained that to me awhile ago.

Polishing guns as the gent described is bound to remove metal. I don't know why anyone does it. A nickel gun is supposed to glow in the dark; stainless guns don't need to shine like that.

***GRJ***
 
I only own three (3) Stainless guns and they are all carry guns.

M60-7 ............ EDC
M65 ............... WOODS GUN
M63 ............... COMPANION GUN FOR HUNTING TRIPS (squirrel and rabbets when hunting with a shotgun).

Since the only reason I own any Stainless guns is for outdoor carry, I expect them to show signs of wear and age. While taking care of them to the best of my ability, I have never worried much about their outward shininess.

I suppose it all comes down to what you like your stainless gun to look like. I prefer the satin Factory look and finish as opposed to the high gloss mirror polish some guys do. Some prefer an in-between look, but once you high polish Stainless it becomes somewhat of a chore to keep it looking pristine whereas the Factory satin finish hides sins and wear marks.

For Target work, collecting and just general purpose I like Blued guns. I also own a few Nickeled guns for good measure, but my personal passion is Blue.
 
"Stainless" (stain resistant) steel from the factory has a surface process applied known as passivation, which helps protect the metal from corrosion. If it is amazingly bright the polishing sounds to have definitely removed all that.

You should put wax on it to help prevent rust and preserve the shiny finish, but even with that watch closely for corrosion (under the stocks and anywhere moisture might hide), just as you would for a blue or nickel gun.
 
Technically, I guess any time you rub anything against a piece of stainless steel, you are removing metal thru abrasion.

That said, I have an early model 629 I have owned since the early 80's. Every year since I purchased it, I hand polish it at least twice with simi chrome polish (A mild abrasive), and keep it coated with a pure paste wax in between. I still have not noticed any rounding of sharp edges, or damage to the roll marks.

Barring wheel polishing with an abrasive metal polish, I think it would take a few life times to note any of the above conditions, let alone remove enough metal to damage the gun. I would caution the OP to avoid regular use of a buffing wheel, instead using a soft cloth, such as the above mentioned diaper. I cant see where using a car wax designed for paint, which is much softer than steel, could remove enough metal to damage his gun when used as noted above.

I like em shiny, unless its on a hunting gun that might reflect and spook game.

Larry
 
murphydog said:
"Stainless" (stain resistant) steel from the factory has a surface process applied known as passivation, which helps protect the metal from corrosion. If it is amazingly bright the polishing sounds to have definitely removed all that.
You should put wax on it to help prevent rust and preserve the shiny finish, but even with that watch closely for corrosion (under the stocks and anywhere moisture might hide), just as you would for a blue or nickel gun.
Click to expand...
A wise person will heed murphydog's advice because he speaks the truth.:)
 
As I understand it, "Passivation" is not a coating applied to the metal, but a chemical process that removes microscopic debris from the "pores" of freshly machined stainless steel that may increase the likely hood of causing corrosion and rusting.

In my experience, anyway, a polished metal has less finish roughness, or surface irregularities that may hold debris that could contribute to future corrosion, bearing in mind that gun grade stainless steel is not 100% corrosion proof.

I would be curious, have any S&W owners with polished SS finishes experienced rust or corrosion at an increased rate compared to factory finished guns?



Larry
 
Passivation does two things. It removes impurities, like iron particles, which lead to rusting. Passivation also forms a thin layer of chromium and nickel oxide which protects the ferritic component from rust. This protective layer is easily removed chemically and by abrasion. SS alloys used in firearms are less resistant to corrosion anyway. Witness that it sticks to magnets.

Renaissance wax is a much purer form of carnauba than Simonize, and doesn't contain abrasives nor turn yellow. It's easy to apply and repels water and dirt. It's expensive, but goes a long way.
 
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I've used carnauba stock wax since the early 1990s.
Being a fan of blued guns, and living in the hot/humid SE US, rust prevention is important for CCW.

I think Johnson's Paste Wax would do just as well, but don't know for sure and can't prove it.

Not arguing against Ren Wax, since that is it's purpose.
Just don't have any.
 
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Carnauba or paste wax make a good moisture barrier. I don't know about preventing oxidation on stainless.

I use Turtle carnauba wax on my woodworking tools/machines and it works very well. That's pretty impressive considering how easily cast iron rusts and how much I sweat during 100 degree plus Texas summers. I used to use paste wax, but the turtle wax is much easier to apply, and I love the smell.
One other advantage of carnauba wax is it also polishes.

Ive also used both waxes to protect my hunting guns (blued.). Works very well, even against blood, which is very corrosive.
 
Renaissance Wax is invisible on stainless steel. However you notice that finger prints don't stick any more. On blued steel, it penetrates the bluing and fills in the pores, making the finish look a mile deep and two shades darker.

It has no odor, perhaps a faint "soapy" smell. The odor of Simonize and other paste waxes is either a solvent, or more likely an odorant used like a trademark.
 
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