Hi Guys! It's dumb question time. I have a nickeled 3" 13-2, and a nickled model 36 2" "no dash number", both have broken hammers. I was wondering how hard it would be to replace these hammers myself? I can get the appropriate parts off Ebay for around $40 per gun. There are two fairly decent gunsmiths in Darlington County, Southland Gun Works, and Darlington Gun Works. I have no idea what these guys charge, or exactly how good there work really is. I don't think that the replacment would be difficult, but I'm a little scared of messing up my nickle. I would rather not send the guns back to S&W if I can avoid it. Opinions please.

There ought to be a thread here in the gunsmithing section if you search for it.

Probably the two biggest issues are: don't mix up the sideplate screws. They need to go back in the same holes they came out of. Second part is replacing the double action sear/fly on the new hammer with the fitted part from the old. There may be some additional final fitting required.

sometimes the hammers will drop right in other times they need fitting.
make sure you are not buying worn out hammers.
you won't mess up the nickel if you use the proper screwdriver, just remove the screws and rap the side of the grip frame with a plastic or brass hammer until the side plate comes loose,DON'T PRY ON IT.
after removing the side plate lift out the hammer block.then back off the mainspring screw and remove the main spring. then pull the trigger drawing the hammer back then wiggle to lift out.

Broken hammers? Or broken firing pins on the hammers?

This is what I did. Bought all the parts, took the gun apart, had no idea of the stoning and fitting required, screwed the job up royally , brought gun and old and new parts to experienced smith. Had to pay for new parts , again, because I filed my worked on parts were unusable now and had to pay for his hours/knowledge. I should have just brought the gun to him.
A man has to know his limitations....I know mine.
Gary

I wouldn't dream of doing those jobs myself.

Filling a cavety can't be that hard, but I let my dentist do it instead of trying to do it myself.

I've got the makin's of a real gunsmithing set. Its out in the garage right now, but I can bring it in if needed. The most important tools are my gunsmith hammer set. The big ones (aka Ford tools) run from 6# up to 30#. That last is my favorite. I bought it at a parts swap meet and paid under $5 for it. The bad part was I had to carry/lug it across the field.

I've also learned to use the 6# job for things I've got to do. But I loan out the big guy to others. Just to watch. The lawyer 2 houses down needed it to drive a for sale sign in his yard. Gawd that was fun. Then he came back and asked if I had a lighter one! Sure, so I loaned him a 12#, but he as too tired by then to use it. To his credit, he asked me if I could finish driving in the sign. I said "sure" and got out my friendly 6# and drove the other stake right in. I don't think he likes me anymore, but he moved so it doesn't matter.

Oh the hammer deal here. I would never buy a new one without the parts already installed. The firing pin is a pain, as are the little springs. If you have great fear, either take it to a real gunsmith (good luck finding one) or sell the gun cheap at a gun show. Bubba attends regularlly.

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Dick Burg

If it is the hammer thumb piece, you can grind the rest off to make it a de-horned hammer. Great for concealed carry, and when you sell it you can try and sell it for more as it is a "custom" carry gun.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Replacing a Hammer or a Hammer mounted Firing Pin is not a big deal and would be something I'd do myself - but I do all my own stuff these days. Sometimes the replacement Hammer does need fitting, but again not a big deal as long as you have the ability, know-how, tools and are familiar with Smith Revolvers. That said, if you are not familiar and have little desire to learn, let a GS do it. If it is just the Firing Pin that is broken, it's not a hard or time consuming job and most of the time the Rivet can be re-used if carefully removed.

I would like to see an answer to Hapworth's question;is the hammer itself broken or is the hammer nose broken?If the actual hammer is busted you need a hammer but if the hammer nose is broken you need only to replace it .Replacing the hammer nose is much less complicated than replacing the actual hammer.

I AGREE WITH MILTON. I WOULD LIKE TO SEE THE ANSWER TO Hapworth's QUESTION. IN OVER 50 YEARS OF SHOOTING, I HAVE NEVER BROKEN, NOR HAVE I SEEN A BROKEN S&W, COLT OR RUGER HAMMER. FOR ONE PERSON TO HAVE TWO GUNS WITH BROKEN HAMMERS SEEMS ODD. WITH REGARD TO THE ACTUAL REPAIR, I WOULD LEAVE IT TO A QUALIFIED GUNSMITH. CALL THE TWO IN YOUR AREA AND ASK THEM ABOUT THE JOB AND THE COST. IN YOUR ATEMPT TO SAVE A FEW BUCKS, YOU MAY REPEAT THE EXPERIENCE OF gwpercie , WHO POSTED ABOVE……..

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'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

On both revolvers the hammer spur had been partially broken away. Both shoot fine and reliability is %100 so far. I have dressed the hammers on both to smooth out the edges, I just think they aren't especially pleasing to the eye.

Izzydog:

Photos of both revolvers would really help those of us trying to advise you properly. Also, do you know how they were damaged? Were they dropped, or was someone trying to bob the hammer spurs, or…?

Regards,

Dave