Renaissance wax VS Johnson Paste wax

Bajadoc

US Veteran
Joined
Feb 27, 2004
Messages
1,268
Reaction score
2,933
Location
Southern California
I just waxed 32 blue steel wood stocked revolvers (29 Smiths, 2 Rugers, 1 Colt, sorry). I did half with Ren wax and half with Johnson. Ren wax is finer and goes on a bit smoother and smells better. All revolvers look equally great when buffed out. Johnson costs way less for a lot more product. On a cost basis I would recommend Johnson, If you want fancy, Ren wax is really nice.
 
All I can say is that I have used Johnson's for more than 30 years without problems, and it works fine - the same can for the whole time. For those who want to pay the extra $ for Ren Wax just to feel good, it probably will work as well as Johnson's. I don't know, never having used it. I just this morning waxed three revolvers. By the way, as the wax contains no water, it cannot have a pH.
 
pH is the chemistry terminology for "Power of the Hydrogen Ion" in solution. Having a lot of hydrogen ions floating around (a low pH) in solution makes it acidic, and it will be corrosive, attacking some metals and other things. Not so many hydrogen ions floating around results in a solution with a high pH which is basic. pH is an inverse logarithmic scale which runs from 1 to 14. Pure water has a neutral pH value of 7. Any value higher is basic, anything lower is acidic. For example, a solution of hydrochloric acid will have a pH of less than 1. A solution of sodium hydroxide (lye) will have a pH of 14, as very few free hydrogen ions are available. . It's important to recognize that pH makes sense only when referring to aqueous solutions of soluble substances. The concept makes no sense regarding wax. If you want to look up pH on Wikipedia, you can find a lot more than you probably wish to know.
 
Last edited:
Does Ph really matter on steel?

I can't believe Johnson paste wax is still around, I remember that stuff from the 50s.

It still exists, most hardware stores, etc. will have it. See SC Johnson 16 oz. Fine Paste Wood Wax-00203 - The Home Depot A 1-pound can will probably last you a lifetime of gun waxing. As I earlier said, I am a little more than halfway through a 1-pound can I bought over 30 years ago. Apply, let it dry for about an hour (not critical), then buff. It WILL prevent rusting if applied at every cleaning. That's why I started using it.
 
Last edited:
I used Johnson's wax for years on old double shotguns. Both the steel and the wood. Theyve been purdy and rust free for years, although they sit in the safe more than not these days.
 
There are a ton of products out there making all sorts of claims. If you use them regularly they will help, if you don't, not so much.
My ex-wife spent a small fortune on some high end vacuum many years ago. I guess she thought the house would be a lot cleaner with that thing sitting in the closet. Like I said, she's my ex.
 
My feeling is that you could probably get good results using shoe polish or car wax. Mainly, you need to seal the metal surface against moisture to prevent rusting, and that's what wax does..

Since I use Eezox for rust protection, why would I add wax to the equation?
 
I use renaissance wax. Can't tell ya why one wax is better than the other, but seems like a lot of world class Museums use it exclusively for their guns, swords and about everything else. Seems to have a softer sheen than car wax's and doesn't yellow.

With the price of guns these day's, $6. for Johnsons or $16 for Renaissance seems like a no brainer.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top