Model 10 lead deposit in chambers

[sdk]

Hello,
Recently purchased a very nice model 10 in beautiful condition that was manufactured in the 1960's. It appears that it wasn't shot very much but whatever was shot through it was lead that left some deposits in the forcing cone and cylinder chambers. I managed to remove the deposits in the forcing cone by scrubbing with a bronze bore brush and solvent but the lead in the chambers wouldn't budge. The deposits in the chambers are circular rings that are in the same spot in every chamber that I believe is where the brass casing end. I know it's very common for deposits to form in that spot but usually they can be removed with solvent and a bronze brush. I even purchased a Lewis lead remover kit and still couldn't remove those deposits. I don't know if it would cause any harm by leaving them there but I would prefer to remove them if possible. Does anybody have any experience with this? Will be grateful for all replies.
S.K.

[kbm6893]

Chuck a cleaning Rod in a drill and dip a bore brush into solvent. 5 seconds on low in each chamber and they'll be mirrors. Mop up with a clean patch dipped in solvent to get the remnants, than a clean dry patch in each chamber.

[murphydog]

If you used all the measures stated properly, you may be trying to scrub the chamber shoulders smooth, which would be futile . If rounds seat and eject properly, I'd call it good.

[BC38]

Originally Posted by sdk

...whatever was shot through it was lead that left some deposits in the forcing cone and cylinder chambers... The deposits in the chambers are circular rings that are in the same spot in every chamber that I believe is where the brass casing end...

I've never tried it but I've seen some recent posts talking about how effective Lewis Lead Remover can be.

[lrrifleman]

I tend to shoot lead bullets in all of my revolvers, and would sometimes encounter a degree of lead build up. About 20 years ago, I came across a product called RB44, which proved to be extremely effective at removing lead build up in my K38s and my Model 57. While I do have some RB44 left, I have not been lucky enough to locate any recently. When I had asked what RB44 was, I had been told liquified horse manure, whether that is true or not, I do not know. There was also a cloth, much like a silicone cloth, that had been impregnated with a chemical of some sort that was fantastic at removing the residual lead rings on the cylinder face. I don't remember if that cloth was marketed by Outers or G96.

I hope that this gives you some ideas.

[robert1804]

An old piece of cleaning rod with a 40 cal bronze brush in a reversible drill makes short work of the nastiest chambers.

[bgrafsr]

I believe the rings you see in the chambers are from the chambering reamer and are not lead deposits. Those "rings" are normal.

[chief38]

I've never seen leading that a Lewis Lead remover couldn't remove. If you are using it correctly and it still won't come out - I would suspect it's NOT lead.

[JohnK]

I've never seen leading that a Lewis Lead remover couldn't remove. If you are using it correctly and it still won't come out - I would suspect it's NOT lead. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Yep.

[sdk]

Originally Posted by JohnK

I've never seen leading that a Lewis Lead remover couldn't remove. If you are using it correctly and it still won't come out - I would suspect it's NOT lead. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Yep.

I believe that the reason the Lewis Lead remover couldn't remove the deposit is that it slides through the chamber too easily without any resistance. As the other posters stated, it probably requires more abrasion. However, I did scrub it vigorously with a bronze bore brush but it didn't work. It worked in the forcing cone but not the chambers. As robert1804 and kbm6893 stated, a larger size bore brush in a drill press might be a good alternative but quite frankly, I'm a little apprehensive about going that aggressive. Some have also suggested that it's not lead but possibly chamber shoulders but to me it looks like deposits rather than a machined shoulder. Maybe I need to look again. Thanks for all the replies.
S.K.

[kbm6893]

Originally Posted by sdk

I believe that the reason the Lewis Lead remover couldn't remove the deposit is that it slides through the chamber too easily without any resistance. As the other posters stated, it probably requires more abrasion. However, I did scrub it vigorously with a bronze bore brush but it didn't work. It worked in the forcing cone but not the chambers. As robert1804 and kbm6893 stated, a larger size bore brush in a drill press might be a good alternative but quite frankly, I'm a little apprehensive about going that aggressive. Some have also suggested that it's not lead but possibly chamber shoulders but to me it looks like deposits rather than a machined shoulder. Maybe I need to look again. Thanks for all the replies.
S.K.

Using a drill on low is not aggressive. Takes seconds and gets them spotless. Brass brush isn't gonna scratch the steel chambers.

[Alk8944]

If what you are seeing is simply the chamber "Lead", long E, then it will be shiny if it is clean. If it is any sort of deposit it will appear somewhat rough and darker than the steel. Look carefully through the chambers from the rear, looking toward a light source, will help differentiate.

For at least the third time, an over-size brush in a drill or drill press used with solvent will make short work of it, if it is some form of deposit. I use .375 Rifle brushes for chamber cleaning as a .38 bore brush is smaller than the chambers and doesn't clean well.

This will start an argument because everyone "knows" that a stainless steel brush will damage bores, but that simply is not true! If you are really desperate this will work as described using power.

[sdk]

Originally Posted by Alk8944

If what you are seeing is simply the chamber "Lead", long E, then it will be shiny if it is clean. If it is any sort of deposit it will appear somewhat rough and darker than the steel. Look carefully through the chambers from the rear, looking toward a light source, will help differentiate.

For at least the third time, an over-size brush in a drill or drill press used with solvent will make short work of it, if it is some form of deposit. I use .375 Rifle brushes for chamber cleaning as a .38 bore brush is smaller than the chambers and doesn't clean well.

This will start an argument because everyone "knows" that a stainless steel brush will damage bores, but that simply is not true! If you are really desperate this will work as described using power.

I looked through using an led light and 5X magnification. I'm 90% sure that it's a deposit. Maybe my next step will be to order a .375 rifle brush. Thanks for the replies.
S.K.

[kbm6893]

Originally Posted by sdk

I looked through using an led light and 5X magnification. I'm 90% sure that it's a deposit. Maybe my next step will be to order a .375 rifle brush. Thanks for the replies.
S.K.

Just buy a .40 cal brush from Walmart. I just use a standard .38 one. Still works fine. I cleaned a 38 with over 2 decades of deposits. Owner always cleaned it, but those rings are stubborn. 60 seconds later and they were gone.

[OKFC05]

looked through using an led light and 5X magnification. I'm 90% sure that it's a deposit. Maybe my next step will be to order a .375 rifle brush

I shoot thousands of .38s through my model 66 every year, and carbon/lead deposits form ahead of the .38 mouth.
I keep a Brownells Tornado chamber brush specifically to clean this out--just takes a few passes. A bristle brush is not nearly as effective.

[sdk]

I will probably do this sometime within the next few days using a variable speed hand drill and bore brush. I'm wondering what the best way to hold the gun is while doing this. Is it held in a padded vice? Do you remove the cylinder from the gun? I appreciate the suggestions and replies.
S.K.

[kbm6893]

Originally Posted by sdk

I will probably do this sometime within the next few days using a variable speed hand drill and bore brush. I'm wondering what the best way to hold the gun is while doing this. Is it held in a padded vice? Do you remove the cylinder from the gun? I appreciate the suggestions and replies.
S.K.

You can remove the cylinder from the gun. I don't do it every time but you'd be surprised at the dirt that is inside the hole in the frame where the cylinder slides into. I use a q-tip with Hoppes for that. Just remove the right screw. It's the one under the trigger. And use a hollow ground screwdriver so you don't mess up the screw. . Just firmly hold the cylinder in your hand and start the drill on low after dipping the brush into solvent. Slide it up and down while it's spinning for maybe 5-7 seconds in each hole. Dip a patch in solvent and mop up each chamber, and you'll be amazed at the filth that will come out. Dry with dry patches.

DO NOT use this method on the barrel. The barrel is rifled and spinning a bore brush in there will screw up the rifling. Chambers are smooth so no issue there.

[scooter123]

Originally Posted by bgrafsr

I believe the rings you see in the chambers are from the chambering reamer and are not lead deposits. Those "rings" are normal.

I agree with this statement, it's most likely what you are seeing is the transition from the chamber to the Throat present in every centerfire revolver cylinder. The ONLY revolvers today that don't feature a Throat are the Rimfire calibers and front loading black powder revolvers. BTW, the Throat is a short necked down area at the front of the cylinder charge holes that is approximately the same diameter as the bullet, which is smaller than the diameter of the case. I would suggest that you STOP trying to remove this material before you do actual damage to your cylinder.

[4barrel]

Your cylinder end should be .357. Get a .357 jacketed bullet & if you can push it through with your finger with a little pressure it should be clean enough to shoot without a problem.

[sdk]

I looked again using an LED bore light and a 5X eye loop and it does look like a deposit OR perhaps could it be material roll over from when the larger diameter was reamed? If I proceed and use the drill with a brass bore brush chucked in it and the deposit remains should I conclude that's what it is? So far I've scrubbed the holes by hand with the bore brush and used the Lewis lead remover and it hasn't budged. Am I perhaps looking too closely? I sometimes tend to do that. If I use the drill with a 38 caliber bore brush shouldn't it have at least a partial affect if it's lead? Thanks again for the replies.
S.K.

[chief38]

Originally Posted by sdk

I believe that the reason the Lewis Lead remover couldn't remove the deposit is that it slides through the chamber too easily without any resistance. As the other posters stated, it probably requires more abrasion. However, I did scrub it vigorously with a bronze bore brush but it didn't work. It worked in the forcing cone but not the chambers. As robert1804 and kbm6893 stated, a larger size bore brush in a drill press might be a good alternative but quite frankly, I'm a little apprehensive about going that aggressive. Some have also suggested that it's not lead but possibly chamber shoulders but to me it looks like deposits rather than a machined shoulder. Maybe I need to look again. Thanks for all the replies.
S.K.

If there is no resistance then either you are using the incorrect caliber kit or the Brass screen is worn out. It is made to have resistance and always does. In fact sometimes it's a bit of a P.I.T.A. to get it through when the brass screen is new.

[kbm6893]

Originally Posted by chief38

If there is no resistance then either you are using the incorrect caliber kit or the Brass screen is worn out. It is made to have resistance and always does. In fact sometimes it's a bit of a P.I.T.A. to get it through when the brass screen is new.

Agreed. You should really have to pull hard to get it started. And if the solvent dipped brush in the drill doesn't work than its not a deposit. I just used that technique on a friends 60 year old j frame that was filthy and it got the chambers looking like mirrors. Use a 40 cal brush and start the spinning before you put it in the holes.

[cmj8591]

Don't overthink this. If the ammo is going in smooth and coming out ok then you should be set.

When I get a revolver with stubborn deposits I fall back on one of two methods: The tried and true Lewis or a bronze brush with piece of lead wipe away cloth wrapped around it. Be careful with the wipe away cloths. They do a great job but they will remove the blue finish. I've used the drill method but I tend to go with plain old elbow grease.

[sdk]

The verdict is in. Used a 38 caliber bore brush in a drill. The deposit remained. Used a .375 diameter rifle bore brush in a drill. The deposit remained. Used a 45 caliber bore brush. The deposit remained. As some of the posters suggested, it's not a deposit. However, after each bore brush I ran a wet patch through each hole and after using the .375 rifle brush the patch came out very dirty so their must have been something left behind in the chambers. After using the 45 caliber brush the patch came out clean. I now believe the chambers should no longer be a concern. Thanks again for the replies.
S.K.

[CajunBass]

I think you are working WAY too hard at this.

[sdk]

Originally Posted by CajunBass

I think you are working WAY too hard at this.

You're right. I work too hard at a lot of things. Thanks for your opinion.

[kbm6893]

Originally Posted by sdk

You're right. I work too hard at a lot of things. Thanks for your opinion.

I'm with you. I'm OCD about keeping my guns clean. Even other people's guns if they're being neglected. Just did a detail clean on a friends 60 year old Chief Special. That thing was neglected. Grips had never been taken off as far as he knew, and I just couldn't let the old girl get any worse. Cylinder was filthy and spun with resistance. Got rid of some rust and got the chambers and bore spotless for him.

I would have done the same thing you have. Now you know how to clean them right. I still use the drill bit technique every time I clean the gun. Doesn't hurt and doesn't let lead build up. Enjoy your model 10.

[sdk]

Thanks for the comments. I'm sure that I'm not alone when it comes to what some may consider overdoing the things I enjoy.
S.K.