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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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Old 05-04-2016, 09:03 PM
usmc 1978 usmc 1978 is offline
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Default Cylinder latch VERY stiff

I've acquired a Model 29-2. Great condition, looks like very little use. The cylinder latch (not sure that's the right nomenclature, but you should know what I mean) is very, very stiff. It's almost everything I can do to push it forward. Any ideas on this before I start taking it apart? Any help will be appreciated.
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Old 05-04-2016, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by usmc 1978 View Post
I've acquired a Model 29-2. Great condition, looks like very little use. The cylinder latch (not sure that's the right nomenclature, but you should know what I mean) is very, very stiff. It's almost everything I can do to push it forward. Any ideas on this before I start taking it apart? Any help will be appreciated.
Try a drop or three of Break-Free on it. May be stuck from rust or congealed oil. Let the oil sink in and penetrate.

Or someone may have gotten it together wrong or left trash in the action. If the oil doesn't free it, you may need to take the sideplate off, IF you know how to do it right and not mar it. Use a gunsmith if in doubt.
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Old 05-04-2016, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Texas Star View Post
Try a drop or three of Break-Free on it. May be stuck from rust or congealed oil. Let the oil sink in and penetrate.

Or someone may have gotten it together wrong or left trash in the action. If the oil doesn't free it, you may need to take the sideplate off, IF you know how to do it right and not mar it. Use a gunsmith if in doubt.

Good advice.
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Old 05-04-2016, 09:28 PM
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The thumb piece is attached to the bolt which moves forward when the thumb piece is pushed to open the cylinder. Without inspecting the revolver, your problem could be a couple of things. Either or both the front and rear of the bolt could be rubbing against the side plate. The bolt body could be rubbing the hammer. It could also be a problem with the center pin in the cylinder. Is the thumb piece too big for the revolver? I sincerely hope I haven't confused you too much. If you're not sure what you're doing, take it to a certified armorer or gunsmith.

Last edited by OldChief; 05-04-2016 at 10:00 PM. Reason: Misspelled word.
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Old 05-05-2016, 06:38 AM
usmc 1978 usmc 1978 is offline
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Thanks, gentlemen. I did dribble a few drops of diesel in it and worked it a few times but then had to go out of town for work and haven't been back to it. I appreciate the advice.
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Old 05-05-2016, 07:26 AM
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Keep in mind the latch springs on these units are heavy so as not to allow the cylinder/crane to unlatch under recoil.
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Old 05-05-2016, 07:50 AM
Pisgah Pisgah is offline
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There is also the possibility that the ejector rod has backed out, creating a "too long" situation. Check to be sure it's still screwed in completely.
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:17 AM
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A possibility is that the center pin might be peened or "mushroomed" slightly at the forward end........preventing it from sliding smoothly through the extractor rod as it should.

This center pin must be able to move smoothly through the front of the extractor rod to push out the locking bolt. Even a tiny lip of peened metal at the forward end of the pin can prevent the pin from pushing out.......and in effect, locking up the thumb release.


Russ
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Old 05-06-2016, 08:33 AM
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Also check the front latch pin in lug under barrel. Fellow brought a Ruger Security six over a while back, could hardly open the latch. He tried clean and oil the latch and action. Was a no better. After looking it over i tried to push the front latch forward. It would not move. I knocked out the retaining pin and tapped latch pin and spring out.It was so gummed up with crud and rust the spring had no room to compress. Just saying , you can also check that.
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Old 05-06-2016, 09:48 AM
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I think the most probable thing is #1,a backed out extractor rod, and #2 a gummed up cylinder thumb release bolt. You can easily check the extractor rod for being properly screwed in, but the cylinder release bolt is inside the works behind the hammer. If you are not well versed in disassembling a S&W and it it isn't the extractor rod I'd have a competent gunsmith look at it.
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Old 05-11-2016, 08:14 PM
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I appreciate all the help. I've been working it with various solvents and such, and it's loosening up. I'm familiar with the extractor rod issue, a buddy showed me that years ago. Not long afterwards I was set up at a gun show when a guy came by with his son, who was about 12. Guy was carrying a S+W with the cylinder swung out. Ok, not so unusual. I asked to have a look at it, closed the cylinder, looked it over, tried to open it. Very difficult. When I got it out I turned the extractor rod in, it moved about a full turn or so. I handed it back to him. As they walked away I heard the kid say "He fixed it!" I'm pretty sure the guy was trying to peddle the gun without telling of the issue. Oh well.
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