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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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  #1  
Old 01-06-2025, 09:20 PM
ronaldharold ronaldharold is offline
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Default Model 66

I have a model 66-1 in great shape. When I press the cylinder release , it seems I have to push the cylinder harder than it should be to get the cylinder out to load it. The rod hasn’t backed out. Any ideas? Thanks for replies.btw it feels like the rod isn’t being pushed in far enough. Should there be resistance felt when doing this?

Last edited by ronaldharold; 01-06-2025 at 09:24 PM.
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Old 01-06-2025, 09:34 PM
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In my experience, it could be some "gunk" inside. I would take out the guts and be sure they are clean and lubed. A quick fix may be just taking off the side plate and toothbrushing the insides. Also, you can unscrew the cylinder release and toothbrush it and the opening. It may be enough without taking all the guts out.
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Old 01-07-2025, 12:49 AM
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Could be the spring loaded pin in front of the ejector rod tip sticking or could be the cylinder release binding in its track,
Lube the ejector rod, the spring loaded pin, remove the cylinder release thumbpiece n lube the bar underneath it.
If it's still sticky open the sideplate, remove the hammer then remove the cylinder release bar being careful not to lose the spring in the back then clean it and the track and make sure it's not binding.

Last edited by Engine49guy; 01-07-2025 at 12:51 AM.
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Old 01-07-2025, 11:06 AM
lppd4 lppd4 is online now
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Make sure your ejector rod has not backed out a bit. I have seen them back out enough to completely bind up the gun
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Old 01-07-2025, 12:18 PM
toad67 toad67 is offline
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Unscrew the thumb latch nut and remove the thumb piece, then make sure that there isn't a blob of **** in the slide cut-out that is preventing full travel. It's faster and easier than removing the side plate.
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Old 01-07-2025, 12:54 PM
stansdds stansdds is offline
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With the thumb latch pushed forward, there should still be resistance to the cylinder being opened, but there could be debris or residue under the extractor creating extra drag. Beyond that, gummy and dirty lubricant on the center pin inside the cylinder and/or the front locking pin.
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Old 01-07-2025, 03:50 PM
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I know you said the ejector rod hasn't backed out but have you made sure its not bent?

It's a good habit to lock the cylinder shut by pressing the yoke not the cylinder or rod.
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Old 01-07-2025, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Engine49guy View Post
I know you said the ejector rod hasn't backed out but have you made sure its not bent?

It's a good habit to lock the cylinder shut by pressing the yoke not the cylinder or rod.
I agree. And I cringe every time I see some yayhoo swing the cylinder shut.
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Old 01-07-2025, 07:30 PM
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Default Has happened to me loads of time in the past.....

Push the extractor out and wipe the underside of the star, burnt powder and oil get piled up under the extractor which then pushes against the recoil shield making it hard to spin and/or open the cylinder...
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Old 01-08-2025, 03:05 PM
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A lot of good suggestions. But do you know that ejector rods on guns of the age of yours have left-hand threads and that there is a tool made for that purpose? It's available on MidwayUSA and other sites. A plier is NOT the tool to use.

Also, are you familiar with removing a side plate? Prying is NOT the answer. Remove the stocks and the screws (using a hollow-ground bit), hold the gun by the barrel with the side plate up and tap downward on the grip frame. The plate will pop upward and no parts should be lost.

Just in case you are inexperienced...

Ed
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