model 36, dates and values?

Guardgunner · Jun 2, 2018

I acquired a pair of 36s. While I have viewed forums for years i have never posted. I have come to consult the wisemen. Whatever info is much appreciated. I am wantin to know dates and possible values assuming these revolvers are say 90% with no originals. I love detailed information. The more the better. Sorry for incorect terminology.

1st revolver:

Yoke = Mod.36 (directly above this there is a very light stamp which may have been stamped twice "E 12" or possibly "F 12")

Barrel Marking= .38 S. & W. SPL.

Barrel: pinned

Grip= Square

Cylinder latch = not flat

Sights = ramped fixed

Butt serial = J326***

2nd revolver:

Yoke= Mod. 36 (verical placement)

Barrel Marking=.38 S. & W. SPL.

Barrel= pinned

Grip= square slightly lighter in color

Cylinder latch = not flat

Sights = ramped fixed

Butt serial= ALV3***

MetalMan · Jun 3, 2018

Very nice for your first post and welcome to the forum!!

The following should help for the 1st one....

I also have a Model 36 with ‘ACH’ prefix serial number which dates to late 1983. Yours would have been produced after this date.

Values based on condition would be in the $400-500 range each.

Early J frame serial numbers
For models 36, 37, 38, 49, 50 and pre model number versions.

1950 = start at 1
1952 = 7369 - 21342
1953 = 28916
1955 = 55050 - 75000
1957 = 117770 - 125000
1962 = starts at 295000
1969 = ends at 786544

J serial Prefix serial numbers.
For models 36, 37, 38, 49, 50.

1969-1970 = J1 - J99999
1971-1972 = 1J1 - 999J99
1973-1974 = J100000 - J250000
1975-1976 = J250001 - J370000
1976-1977 = J370001 - J610000
1977-1978 = J610001 - J670000
1979-1980 = J670001 - J760000
1981 = J760001 - J915400
1982 = J915401 - 1J18600
1983 = 1J18601 - 1JXXXX

1955 - 4 screw side plate ends
1957 - stamping of model number at 125000
1966 - flat latch ends
1968 - diamond grips end
1975 - heavy barrel standard
1982 - end pinned barrel

Guardgunner · Jun 3, 2018

MetalMan said:
Very nice for your first post and welcome to the forum!!

Thankyou, do you have any explanation of the light stamping behind the yoke on the first revolver? Also, how could i tell if the grips are original or not, these grips are amazing. If you dont mind i also will post detailed pictures so maybe you could verify there worth.

MetalMan · Jun 3, 2018

Yes...additional photos will help....

While I’m not sure when S&W stopped the practice, at least for the older one, take the grips off to see is the same serial number is also stamped on the inside of one or both of the grip panels.

Guardgunner · Jun 3, 2018

More pictures, revolver # 1

Here are a few for the first revolver

MetalMan · Jun 3, 2018

I’m also a fan of the Model 36....mine date from 1968 and 1983.

Guardgunner · Jun 3, 2018

Revolver # 2

#2.

Some of the pictures have finger prints in them and are easily removed. #2 seems to be in better condition then #1. The orginal owner told me that revolver #1 was worth 600 to 650 since it was pinned with a square but. I was skeptical

Guardgunner · Jun 3, 2018

MetalMan said:
I’m also a fan of the Model 36....mine date from 1968 and 1983.

These are beautiful metalman, what condition do you rate yours? Also, whats the rule when determining if these are +p rated?

MetalMan · Jun 3, 2018

Condition is (almost) everything in assessing value; finish as well as mechanical condition. Geography also comes into play. It may also depend simply on what someone is willing to pay.

For example, I purchased my 1968 example a couple of months ago at a small local gun show for $470 including box (not numbered to the gun), vapor paper and tools. I thought this price, too, may have been a bit high but the condition was LNIB and I was prepared to purchase at this price, so the deal was struck.

In my neck of the woods, the condition of your examples as described without box, papers, tools would still bring $4-500 in my neck of the woods.

MetalMan · Jun 3, 2018

Guardgunner- Newer S&W’s rated for +P are stamped on the barrel.

General rule of thumb is that any S&W with a stamped model number on the yolk is OK to handle the occasional +P, but a steady diet is not recommended.

I practice with standard factory .38’s in mine with the occasional cylinder or 2 of +P’s; I carry +P’s for SD.

MetalMan · Jun 3, 2018

Guardgunner said:
Here are a few for the first revolver

The grips on #1 appear to be aftermarket, not original to the gun.

Guardgunner · Jun 3, 2018

Thanks for all the help, any speculation on that E 12 or F12 marking on the yoke of # 1. I haven't seen any picture or post of something even remotely similar

Guardgunner · Jun 3, 2018

What makes you assume the grip is after market? Its color? Or the its condition in relation to the frame?

Inusuit · Jun 3, 2018

I made the same assumption about aftermarket grips as MetalMan because of the color and prominent grain in the wood. Just don't see that with the factory grips, but never say never with S&W. Random numbers such as your E/F 12 are often assembly numbers used to keep matching parts together through the finishing and assembly process. However I've not seen such a short number before.

Guardgunner · Jun 3, 2018

Heres another look at them side by side.
#1 is on the left, and you can see some additional detailing in the outlining of the diamonds.

two-bit cowboy · Jun 3, 2018

Welcome aboard from Wyoming.

Nice pair of Chiefs.

If the grips on the first gun were original to the gun they would have the 326XXX serial number stamped on the inside of the right grip panel. I'm guessing they are Altamont grips. Sometime in 1975 is likely when that one shipped.

Your second Chiefs doesn't have a pinned barrel. I'd put it as being shipped around 1985.

Guardgunner · Jun 3, 2018

Appreciate eveything guys, frankly both of these revolvers are older then I am, never owned a revolver that wasnt modern. Or a SW for that matter. Thx again. Anyone else who wants to give input go right ahead

Guardgunner · Jun 3, 2018

Another question

On the yoke on one of the revolvers theres is a fault in the metal right above the model stamp. While I know this affects the value, i want to know if this could ever be a safety or function issue. What do you guys think? The shadowing makes it look deeper then it really is but it is there.

MetalMan · Jun 3, 2018

Hard to be sure, but that does look like a stress fracture or metal fatigue.

Dogmann · Jun 12, 2019

What would be the value on a 1955 flat latch model 36 snub?

model 36, dates and values?

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