M36 in nickel or M60 SS

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wetdog1911

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After snagging that M49 in nickel, kinda decided I'd like another 'shiny'
J frame, but one with an exposed hammer, the Chief's Special in .38spl.

Figuring on both being from the same era (mid 70's or so), would you choose one over the other for reasons other than cosmetic (or even cosmetic), and why?

I've only had one SS revolver, a M66 no dash that I stupidly let go back when I consolidated calibers over 20 years ago. I really regret that sale, but, obe la dee, obe la da, life goes on Bra.

Thanks for your insights.

Rob
 
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ISCS Yoda said:
I can't disagree with murphydog. As long as you get one in steel - I am not a big fan of the lightweight style.
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I'm not either. I do have a M442-1 that I'm really skeptical of and a M43C that I only got because the kit guns & steel .22lr snubbies were just so far out of my price range.

Neither bring me the joy or feel that either of my all steel M49s do. They just look and feel cheap in comparison.

Steel is real.

Rob
 
gmborkovic said:
Get a nickel Mod-38. Had one for years and a delight to carry.
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I thought about the M38 long and hard, but in the end decided on the M49 blued as my first J frame. Now, it seems the M38's have really jumped in price over the M49s.

Glad I got them both when I did, everyone seems to be really loving the old Humpbacks all of a sudden. Both of mine are from 1976-77.

Rob
 
I think your question was which would be better, a Model 36 in nickel or a Model 60 in stainless steel. If that is the question I would answer this way. If you want a pretty gun to keep in the safe and take out to fondle occasionally, get a nickel 36 (like the one I fondle). If you want a workhorse to carry, get a stainless 60. If you want to make your 60 shinier, that’s pretty easy with a minimal amount of elbow grease and a little Mother’s mag wheel polish.
 

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LPD256 said:
I think your question was which would be better, a Model 36 in nickel or a Model 60 in stainless steel. If that is the question I would answer this way. If you want a pretty gun to keep in the safe and take out to fondle occasionally, get a nickel 36 (like the one I fondle). If you want a workhorse to carry, get a stainless 60. If you want to make your 60 shinier, that’s pretty easy with a minimal amount of elbow grease and a little Mother’s mag wheel polish.
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I shined my M60 w/Mother’s Mag Wheel Polish and it’s hard to tell any difference from a nickel M36.
 
LPD256 said:
I think your question was which would be better, a Model 36 in nickel or a Model 60 in stainless steel. If that is the question I would answer this way. If you want a pretty gun to keep in the safe and take out to fondle occasionally, get a nickel 36 (like the one I fondle). If you want a workhorse to carry, get a stainless 60. If you want to make your 60 shinier, that’s pretty easy with a minimal amount of elbow grease and a little Mother’s mag wheel polish.
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My sentiments too.
I could answer your question pretty easily if you were to clarify the intended use you have in mind for your not-yet-acquired J frame.
 
Agree with the above.

For carry, because of sweat and exposure to the elements, etc, stainless all the way.

For range shooting and occasional fondling but mainly hanging out in the safe, nickel is the winner!

I love nickel Smiths, 3 of my 10 revolvers are nickel, but I want more, lol!
 
It will be carried, or at least in the rotation and with the summers here, stainless makes all the sense in the world.

@71, I'm too old to be buying safe queens, plus, I just got a brand new tube of Flitz so I can make my own shiny.

Thanks for all the comments!

Rob
 
Well, I snagged one, a "R" series, but with the pinned bbl, matching box and grips. $440 + shipping and fees. Never been in a holster, just range use.

The price variance is crazy, there is another one, a pre R, diamond grips, box & everything that's at $685 with over 3 days left on the auction. 24 bids so far. I have it on my watch list to see where it finally ends up. Nice for a collector, but waaay too much for a shooter IMO.

Rob
 
Belt carry my M38 in my snubbyfan holster. Carried everyday for lots of years. The bodyside is getting well worn. The outside looks good. Brushed nickel. Shot some plus P plus the other day. At74 Iheld on pretty good. Roundbutt with a Tyler T. Granddaughter wanted to try it but couldn't pull the trigger. Her favorite was the nickel mod34 2inch.
 
There is no denying the beauty of a new or as new nickel handgun. (I actually had one for five years or so while I searched for a proper set of pre-war Magnas for it.)

Similarly there is no denying the staggering ugliness of a nickel handgun once it has reached a state of scabbines-------------and there's no simple/cheap/quick remedy for such a sad state of affairs.

Now I've never seen a stainless gun with a case of ugly, but I believe such misfortune is easily and quickly remedied-----------------right??

Case closed!!

Ralph Tremaine
 
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I have or have had all the guns mentioned here. These are all basically the same gun and any finish will hold up well if you'll occasionally wipe the gun down with a lightly oiled cloth (the oil brand doesn't matter). You certainly don't need mag wheel polish, though it may hurt nothing.

These guns are comparatively difficult to shoot well but get what you like and practice with it. I'm not an advocate of nor do I understand gun fondling or carry rotation, but perhaps you can do these things and still become a proficient shooter.

I'd stay away from the older alloy-framed guns if you like to shoot much. Some years ago, I had a nickel S&W Model 38 and a Colt Agent that each suffered a cracked frame with standard pressure loads.
 
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