Simichrome Polish

Pizza Bob

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Is it safe to use on nickel firearms?

Thanks for any input.

Adios,

Pizza Bob
 
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Semichrome contains ammonium oleate, and aluminum oxide as an abraisive. Flitz brand paste and liquid polish also contain these, or similar ingredients. Flitz also warns on the label that their liquid polish is not to be used on "electroplated metals".

Try to find a polish that has no ammonia compounds. Follow label instructions.

Many here (me excluded) on the forum use and have recommended Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish. It does not appear to contain ammonia....but still has an aluminum oxide (abraisive) ingredient......so use caution.

That black residue you see left behind on your polishing rag when you use this stuff......that's a small portion your plating. Keep in mind that electroplated nickel is very thin, the thickness is not always uniform, and it can be removed or compromised with repeated polishing.

MSDS on Semichrome:
https://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS00025/36962975-20071213.PDF

Flitz liquid and paste:
https://www.flitz.com/content/SDS - PastePolish_2019.pdf

Mothers:
https://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS00028/50973239-20150827.PDF
 
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Pretty much all the cleaners will leave "black" on the rag, be it Nickel, SS, Aluminum Even if used on Blued, the rag is black.


You can use it, just don't over do it with power tools.
Many many car guys polish the heck out of their wheels every weened,


The black residue is a minute amount of nickel being pulled from the metal..it is a good thing as it acts as a secondary polishing agent. The best polishing occurs in a very damp medium..that is use sufficient product to create a significant amount of this black residue, then, remove while still wet...that’s how to achieve the best results...keep lots of dry towels handy and work in back and forth motions, not circles.

--
A. Craig Burnett
Chemist
Mothers Polishes Waxes Cleaners
 
I find the Mothers Billet Polish slightly milder than the Mothers Mag Polish. Often the application method/cloth can be aggressive to polishing. Unless it is a basket case of a finish, you will want to steer clear of steel wool. Even brass wool will be more aggressive than needed for routine polishing. Also, carefully with the amount of elbow grease applied while polishing.
 
If I were to use Mothers on nickle I would be very careful. Use a lot of water and don't over do it.
 
Years back, I got a good deal on a 4 inch nickel model 29-2. The gun was tight and accurate, but the finish looked like a spider web of fine surface scratches.

I have always used Simichrome polish on the aluminum on my motorcycles (works very well), and decided to try it on the model 29. Hand applied for about a half hour while watching TV, the results were amazing. It looked like a different gun, with most all scratches gone.

Obviously, to do so, it had to remove some of the nickel. My suggestion would be to save the abrasive polish for sparing use to remove scratches, and not for normal cleaning.

Polishing / buffing stainless steel with simichrome is another story, and will not harm the gun. With a little elbow grease, you can make a SS gun look nickel plated with this stuff. I did a SS Super Blackhawk this way, and have had several folks at the range notice it, and ask if Ruger was offering the SBH in nickel.

Larry
 
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I never thought that use of a polishing compound on a blued firearm is OK. My Ruger Redhawk could use some polishing. So that would be OK?
 
I used Mothers on a darkened CZ 25acp barrel, took it back to nice bright steel. Kinda surprised me how well it worked.
 
I never thought that use of a polishing compound on a blued firearm is OK. My Ruger Redhawk could use some polishing. So that would be OK?


I have used Flitz on Blued. Nickle, Chrome and Stainless guns. Have not ruined one yet. There is much debate on Flitz and blued guns. The product even says it is fine for FACTORY blued finish. Soft cotton rag and lightly rub. Yes the cloth turns black as with any of them. Just do not go crazy and use a Dremel or whatever.:eek:
 
I have used semi chrome,on several of my nickel Guns. I use a very small amount. Use my finger,to lightly polish. Wipe it off with a old t shirt,or white sock. Don't rub it hard. Just lightly cover the area,and then wipe it off.
 
I use Flitz on my nickel M-27-2 with amazing results.
I apply it using just one finger and I am not aggressive with it at all.
Finish up with Ren wax.
 
I'm not telling anyone to do what I have done - but I have used Flitz on Nickeled Revolvers in the past with great success. I make it a rule to use it one time (and only one time) and to use an old T shirt and work lightly by hand only. It takes out some of the milky look and helps with minor scratches. I've only done this on rare occasion when I have bought or inherited a used Nickeled gun that is in need of a little help - not a routine ritual.

I inherited a first year production (1951) I/J frame Chief's Special from my Dad that he had carried as a BUG his entire adult life. It has seen 10's of thousands of rounds and while it did not have any Nickel peeling it was very scratched and milky. I disassembled the entire gun (didn't want Flitz inside anywhere), lightly and carefully polished it with an old T shirt and Flitz and that improved the appearance remarkably! I would not to this again to the same gun as it might cause possible harm, but done lightly and carefully really did help.

I'm just telling you what I did - not telling anyone to follow suite - but after doing this to 3 different guns, I would not hesitate to do this again if necessary.
 
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If you already have some Semichrome, use it. As long as you use a soft clean rag and don't go crazy it will brighten up those nickel finishes. I used it for years on old Smith & Wesson revolvers. I use liquid Flitz for polishing my brass and polish my wife's silverplate tea service with it. I have been doing that for many years with no adverse effects.
 
I have used Semichrome on motorcyle head pipes that had turned blue from heat it seemed to work O K. Jeff
 
Either will work, I think Flitz is a little less abrasive. Either way, use a soft cloth and a gentle hand. No need for the Dremel. Once the surface is clean and polished, I would follow it up with solvent to remove any chemical residue, then dry thoroughly and apply Renaissance Wax. I think the wax covers and protects plated surfaces better than oil.
 
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