I have a nice Model 28-2. It is my 357 shooter as my other is a safe queen. However, it is showing signs of use. Before, I talk with a gunsmith, I wanted to talk with you first.

Here is a pic of it...



I would like to have it refinished. I know that I can go through this process myself by buying some re-bluing material at Cabellas.

I would also like to have the grips refinished.

My questions for you guys.

Is it worth it to try and do this process myself? I know that using the re-bluing stuff for touch ups is OK, but what about an entire gun? Too big of a task to handle?

Should I use a gunsmith? If so, what kind of price would I be prepared to pay?

What about the grip refinishing? Possible or not?

I would like to hear about your experience, if you have gone through the same thing as I am wanting.

Thanks!

I have a nice Model 28-2. It is my 357 shooter as my other is a safe queen. However, it is showing signs of use. Before, I talk with a gunsmith, I wanted to talk with you first.

Here is a pic of it...



I would like to have it refinished. I know that I can go through this process myself by buying some re-bluing material at Cabellas.

I would also like to have the grips refinished.

My questions for you guys.

Is it worth it to try and do this process myself? I know that using the re-bluing stuff for touch ups is OK, but what about an entire gun? Too big of a task to handle?

Should I use a gunsmith? If so, what kind of price would I be prepared to pay?

What about the grip refinishing? Possible or not?

I would like to hear about your experience, if you have gone through the same thing as I am wanting.

Thanks!

It's your revolver, and there's certainly no reason not to refinish it, if that's what you want to do with it. I'd advise against a reblue with any do-it-yourself blue, though. It's OK for a junker you want to bring back to some sort of life, but it won't look nearly as good as what you have now. If it were mine -- and I have one just like it -- I'd use it as-is, take care of it -- and, if you care about such things, watch the value continue to go up. Any reblue, even a professional job, will knock considerable off the collector value.

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Pisgah

Leave the gun alone. It isnt bad enough to refinnish.

No, no, no... That's all just so wrong.

Cold blue is destructive **** and it should be illegal. Just flush money instead.

Remove any active rust with solvent and a brass brush or brass wool, but leave the original finish intact. It looks really good, except for the back of the frame and the hammer. I might consider replacing the hammer but leave the bluing alone.

If you want to ruin the stocks, go at em. Some of our members here do excellent stock refinishing, but I'd leave those alone too. Maybe wax them with a good paste furniture wax.

Get the rust off and start shooting!

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"I also cook."

That gun does not really need a reblue, especially since you consider it your "shooter" ! Even the grips look fine to me !

Fondle the safe queen and shoot this one !

Jerry

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.38/44 Outdoorsman Accumulator

+1 to everything posted so far.

If you just clean it up a little I think it would look great as is.

However, it doesn't really matter what I or anyone else on this forum thinks - it is your gun and you have to be happy with it.

If it were mine I'd just clean it and shoot the beejeesees out of it.

Use it the way it is as a shooter. It looks fine to me.

I'm like everyone else; I don't think the finish is so bad that it needs to be redone. You do need to get the rust off it, and bronze wool with Break-Free CLP or some kind of oil is the best way to do it. Then you need to keep it well oiled so the rust doesn't come back. For that purpose I've had good luck with Break-Free CLP even in the damp climate we have here in Southeast Alaska.

If you ever do decide to refinish the gun (even if you decide to do it now simply because you will be happier if it is refinished) you should think strongly about having it done at the Smith & Wesson factory. Their prices are good, and a gun refinished at the factory tends to hold its value better than one done by John Q. Gunsmith. If someone in the future decides to have the factory research the gun, the fact that it was factory refinished should show up.

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SWCA 2379

I think the key here is you need to do what makes you happy with the gun. A refinished gun loses it's collector value but not it's value as a shooter gun in excellent shape. I agree that I would have S&W refinish the gun as their prices are good and they know what they are doing. They mark the frame of the gun with a stamp that dealers know means the gun was refinished.

You can get the grips redone by VM from the forum here and he does wonderful work for a very fair price. Here's his email addess [email protected] and his turnaround time is fast.

He refinished the diamond target grips on this gun.

S&W hasn't marked refinished or serviced guns for quite a while (over 30 years). With shipping, a factory refinish will run you about $300.

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"I also cook."

I just sold a Model 28 on Gunbroker. I'm surprised that this utility model is still able to command a price of $535 (and more) in excellent, used condition.
If you wish to stop rust issues and make the gun look new again, I'd ask either S&W or a reputable gunsmith. Elsewise, I'd leave it alone. If you do refinish, you will need to give the gun better care than it had previously or it will soon return to its present condition. My brother had a Model 19 which spent a couple of weeks in a trailer after some pipes had burst. It was rusted but S&W refinished it beautifully.
Grips are easier. A strip job with toluene, some gentle smoothing with fine steel wool to get a nice non-directional surface, some stain if you wish; and either linseed oil, tung oil, or satin polyurethane applied in very thin layers with a cloth.
Bear in mind that the Model 28 was a lower cost utility model and did not come with a highly polished finish like the Model 27. The one I sold was 100% on the finish but still did not appear to have been polished smooth. You could still see some fine tool markings if you looked closely. I still have my Gunbroker photos in high resolution and will email them to you if you'd like to see what a new one should look like.

Chad makes a good point. Why spend $300 for re-finish and after you're done, you have a gun worth $400.

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Dick

Dick, I totally agree with you on the value of the gun after spending the money to refinish the gun.

I think he several choices if the condition of the gun really bothers him a great deal.

1. sell it and use the money to get the same model in better condition
2. Get it refinished and keep it for a long time and enjoy shooting it and looking at it
3. Keep it the way it is and shoot the **** out of it.

In the end it's his choice and he needs to do what makes him happy and what he's comfotable with.

My experience of owning a gun I'm not happy with usually results in it being sold or buried in the safe never to see the light of day again. I usually just sell them and move on.

If you are unhappy with the way it looks, by all means, refinish it. It is not about value, but about pride of ownership. The fact that it is a Model 28 means it will not have the magnificent blueing of the Model 27, One is high gloss, the other is semi-matte. It will look new, and if that matters, OK. HOWEVER. My mindset says something else. Send it to Bowens and have it converted to a .44 Custom gun. It will be line bored, tight chambered, timed, rebarreled, accurate beyond expectations, and something really special. And, and, and....
NOW it will be a Bowens custom gun and command the price of one of his guns. Just my 2¢

Here's one of my guns that I did in a similar fashion....


Terry

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Terry
SWCA, SWHS, IWLA, NRA

I agree with this. Here was my experience with having a (modified) M-28 refinished by S&W. Cost was $180 plus shipping:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/e...0103904/m/8211041543

However yours looks like it's in pretty decent shape and from what I can see, I wouldn't touch it. It looks about right to me for a shooter.

Another vote for leaving it alone. It has an appealing look about it in my view. It'd be a shame to refinish one that looks as presentable as yours does. It'd also be a complete waste of funds.

I have a discerning eye and can readily spot a refinish. If your Model 28 was on a gun show table or in a display case in a gun shop along with a unmarred refinished Model 28, I'd disdainfully look right past the refinished one to admire your gun as it is.

The opinion seems to be, if you ever intend to sell it, don't refinish as that removes collector value.

Unless we are talking Civil War guns, to me, to have collector value, it has to be almost mint to begin with, not half ragged out.

I have had Smith reblue 3 guns for me over the years, and the best looking job they do is the bead blast finish/re-blue....it is also their least expensive. In my opinion, if you are indeed keeping it, get that finish from the factory and you will be happy.

As far as hobby gunsmith re-blue kits, they are just junk.

Here is my most recent re-blue from Smith... a pre 36:

And I'm the odd man out. I have a few I've had refinished. Do I regret it? NO!

My thoughts on refinishing are:
Go with the factory. If you can't get the factory to do it look around for a competent gunsmith. Ask to see samples of his reblueing. If the person is good he'll be proud of his work.

My first choice would be S&W though.

This subject comes up now and then. I sometimes jump in as a sort of devil's advocate.

Everyone has their own ideas. I am no textbook collector. I don't have a single revolver that would interest a real collector. But I am very fond of my guns, some of them mean a great deal to me, and I have certain standards. I have refinished several in my life. S&W has always done the work, and I have never had a problem. Maybe I have been lucky?

Sometimes others DO point out things that we might overlook in our zeal to spruce up an old gun. My Dad's K22 is an example. Some time ago, I asked forum members their opinion of refinishing it, and quite a few pointed out I would be erasing evidence of a lot of memories. (My Dad taught me to shoot with that gun.)

Trick to them. I decided to leave the gun as-is, for that reason. It means more to me as it is than with a fresh re-blue.

Ultimately, its your gun and only you know what it means to you. Base your decision on that. The notion of "collector value" means nothing if you are not a collector. On the other hand, even a decent craftsman, but one who has no real experience with S&Ws, can make a wreck of a nice old revolver pretty easily - and still expect to be paid.

Cold blue is the work of Satan. PLEASE do not use it on the entire gun.

It doesn't need a new finish. If you want a shooter, leave it alone.

Any refinish will kill its collector value.

If you plan on keeping it for a very long time and use it and enjoy it, get it reblued or even hard chromed. It will make a great carry gun and shooter. But, again, realize, you will never get your money back out of the deal.

Its not "Mint" enough to bring the big bucks as a collector gun, so, you have alot of options open to you. Its your gun, have fun.

I copied your photo and lightened it up for a closer look. Looks like you have some pitting on the frame, unless this is just dirt.
If pitting is deep, refinishing will stop it but you will still see the pitting. It will still not look like new even after refinishing.
If this is the case, I would not invest in a refinishing job. I would keep the surface coated with a light film of rust preventative and either just shoot it or look to sell/trade on a better example.

You can buy a really nice 98% to mint M-28 for about $500-550. If you worked it, you could probably sell your gun for $425-450. A factory finish including rust removal, polishing, and shipping will cost you about $220-240.

You do the math.

WOW! I am very thankful for the opinions provided.

I am extremely happy with my current 28-2. I don't plan on selling it. If I do decide to spruce it up, it is because I want to do that.

However, with the opinions provided with costs does throw a different twist on things. In other words, I will think twice before I pull the trigger on anything... no pun intended.

Thanks!!!

You know, I think the only way you are going to know what Smith charges is to call them and ask. Mine have cost me about $160.00.

It's your gun, and if you want to refinish it then do it and what anybody else thinks does not matter.

The reason I'm replying to this is there is something that nobody has mentioned, and that is mechanical condition. If you send it to Smith and ask them to make it factory spec, it will come back tuned like brand new, and the cost on top of the reblue is mostly just parts. Very economical for a new bolt and hand and star and some springs. And while I was never charged, I swear that they do at least a bit of a trigger job.

One more thing, have it sent from an FFL. You can use the Post Office to mail it and I think you get a discount on the work.

Fred

Well, I am not going to do much with my 28-2 after much thought. However, I did take some advice and contacted Mike Kieffer, who does some great work on re-finishing wood grips. I received them this week and let me just say that I am more than pleased. The pictures don't do much justice to the overall beauty and shine. You can compare it to the pictures in the beginning of this thread.

What do you think?

Mike's work is amazing and you have a great looking gun the way it is with the redo of the grips.

Looks great to me! I'd be proud to show up at the local range carrying that iron, for sure!! The grips came out great as usual from VM.

The stocks look Great!

They would look even better if you got the gun refinished, then the whole gun would look spiffy new.

I bought an M28-0 a few years ago. It was in really rough shape externally. I just lived with it for a while but it hurt me to even look at it. So I sent it to S&W for their $50 revolver tune. Then had them send it on to APW. Where I got it hard chromed. Something like $170 plus return shipping.

I wasn't sure I would like it but it has become my favorite using N frame. It looks exactly like a stainless gun but even smoother to the touch. Easy to clean and tough as nails.

http://www.apwcogan.com/

Gregg

As a shooter it looks fine to me the way it is.

I'll leave the decision about refinishing entirely up to you, as it should be, without my persuasion.

However, if you were to decide to refinish, I've had daydreams about having the factory do a refin of a Model 28 4" in the Brushed Nickel finish that was done in very small numbers as special orders for law enforcement (as referenced here on the Forum and in the S&W Bible; i.e. Supica/Nahas, 3rd Ed). That might be very cool. Having seen Gregg's pictures of his 4-screw refinished in hard chrome, maybe that is the way to go! Sure has a terrific look, along with that proven finish durability.

Either way, no one would accuse you of trying to pass something off for what it isn't. I think every S&W shooter/collector should have at least one S&W revolver that they have personalized in their own way. I've got several, though all the work was done at the factory.

Whichever way you go, if there is something to see, you gotta post the pics!!

Bob

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FBINA, 204th Session

Polish it a couple times with RENAISSANCE polish
-wax will add a couple of percentage points to it.
Dick

Renaissance polish-wax? Never heard of it. Where might I find some? Gun store or hardware store? It might be worth looking into at the very least.

That is one fine looking gun. I like the re-work job done to it. Thanks for sharing!

I bought a 28 with more wear on it then yours has. A shooter is just that and I guarantee that a blued gun - even flat blue - is going to show wear in short order. You can get by with it the way it is - although that is not what you want to hear.

Here is a cheap out. Buy yourself a can of G96 Gun Treatment. It sells for about 9 bucks. I've been using this product for what seems like 40 years. Best gun care stuff I've ever seen with respect to finishes. Take your grips off and hose your gun down in and out. Wipe it down with a soft cloth and watch your finish take on a whole new look. Three coats are recommended for long term storage. Blued guns really benefit from this treatment. It also flushes away internal dirt.

A great finish, if you go that route, is hard chrome impregnation. Used to go by the trade name of Armaloy or Metalife - maybe SS Metalife. It is rust proof and has a very high rockwell. Tulsamal gave you good advice - I think it is the same stuff. The collectors don't like it but shooters love it.

Good luck with your project.

I have used FLITZ metal polish on pretty near every blued S&W I own. When used gently, as directed, it has never done any damage, and will leave a deep, lustrous (damn, I sound like a commercial!) finish that is easy to maintain. I have had people ask me how much it cost to have the high polish applied to some of my guns.

As an aside, I had my grandfathers Colt 1908 pocket .380 done in electroless nickel. It pretty much destroyed any collector value, but it was my primary carry gun for years and the blued finish was shot. It was done in the early 80's and still looks good.

Do what makes you happy, but start with a good polish...you can always refinish it later, but once it's done, you can't undo it.

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Rough waters ahead.

"Is it worth it to try and do this process myself?"

NO! If you decide to have the gun refinished, send it back to S&W and they can thoroughly check out the gun mechanically at the same time.

Excuse me, I don't want to hijack the thread, but I have a question for dutcher987 (edited: for Tulsamal, not dutcher987) and his hard chromed smith.

What finish is your pistol? Matte? Brushed?
Were there any extra charges for refinishing (removing pits/rust spots/blemishs?)

Do you have a "before refinish" photo you can post?

The revolver looks absolutely fantastic. Thanks for sharing the picture and link to AP.

I have to believe you were talking about me!

1) It was the brushed chrome finish. The gun was so damaged looking on the outside that I actually asked for matte. I was just going to have it be strictly a utility gun. When APW received the gun, they called me. The owner thought it had the potential to be a nice looking gun with the brushed chrome finish. So I agreed and I'm glad I did. (I believe I paid around $170 plus return shipping.)

2) No, they didn't charge me anything extra. It was held out as a possibility but it didn't happen. We talked about him using his special machine to redo the S&W logo on the side but decided it wasn't enough of a problem to worry about. (That logo looked the same when the gun was blue so this wasn't a "cover up" problem.)

I've got a few photos of it before. I'll dig up a few and post it here.

Thanks for the compliment. That gun is always one of the first to be shown to gun interested guests.

Gregg