Found a very nice 35-1 today. It is in excellent condition with only a slight turn line and grips numbered to the gun.

With a serial of 134xxx my best guess on a ship date is 1968-69. This is based on a post referring to a start number of 70000 in 1960 and an end number of 135465 in 1969.

Can anyone verify if I'm even close to being correct? Thanks!

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S&W Mod 35-1.jpg (215.9 KB, 268 views)

Looking through the Standard Catalog 4th I agree with your info based on the book. That is a nice little find.

Thanks. Good to know I’m close.

134263 Model 35-1 August 1969

bdGreen

134554, April 22, 1969. So how close are you?

I am very, very close to bdGreen so it would seem like 1969 is the year. I guess the month is up in the air since 134554 shipped before 134263. Thank you for the help gentlemen.

Off to the range this afternoon to see how she shoots.

Very nice.

I have never actually seen one of these up close. I remember seeing these in the S&Ws catalogs in the late 60s. I actually wanted one. Since the the K-frame .22s were more common I ended up with a model 18-3 which I still have.

It is a shame that they were discontinued. As I started gaining more knowledge about collecting S&Ws I learned just how certain models were slow sellers. Models like the 35, 16, 26, and model numbered HDs and Outdoorsman were not made in great numbers.

Yep, I've seen a few up close.

Up close and personal.

enjoy,

bdGreen

Sadly, the range session did not go well. Most cartridges (CCI SV) would not fire due to light strikes. The gun looks to have been barely used so I doubt it is wear. So now have to look for dirt in the wrong places, cylinder endshake, etc. I don’t see anything obvious but will get it on the bench tomorrow.

Wow! That’s a nice collection bdGreen!

Most likely you have some accumulated residue or schmutz behind the side plate. Buy a can of gun scrubber, use proper screwdrivers, and remove that. Then use the spray to clean whatever is causing the problem - it's not likely end shake if the revolver is as good as it looks! That revolver will be a tack driver when you get done.

Here's mine:

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Model 35-1 LH.jpg (126.7 KB, 48 views)

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S&WHF #946
S&WCA #3824

That is a beautiful revolver! I'm sure you'll work it out.

Well, this is looking more and more like a firing pin issue. There is virtually no end to end play in the cylinder when closed. The cylinder/barrel gap at .006 and the cylinder/recoil shield gap at .011 are virtually the same as my Model 17. The chamber recesses measure the same as well. The only difference that I can see is that the Model 17’s firing pin protrudes noticeably further than the Model 35’s.

The mechanism is very clean inside and solvent / compressed air didn’t help the firing pin in any way. This gun has obviously barely been fired - well, because it doesn’t!

I’m thinking the next step is to pull the firing pin and then either recess the shoulder a little or deepen its socket a touch. I’m guessing the firing pin is hardened? Anybody know?

Check the main spring strain screw. It may be loose or someone may have shortened it for a lighter trigger pull. I have run into this issue on a few used guns I have picked up. Remove the screw and check the end for metal removal. To fix one old M15 I had, I removed the anvil from a spent large rifle primer and used it for a cap on the end of the screw. Fixed my misfires. Later I just replaced the strain screw

J frames have coil mainsprings so no strain screw.

I would never modify the frame to make it functional, start with the firing pin and spring, and confirm proper assembly / lubrication.
If needed getting a replacement firing pin and spring should straighten it out

Yup, no strain screw - coil spring.

I agree with working on the firing pin first although a frame mod would be very minimal in this case. Only looking for about .005 in. That could be a burr or unfinished edge. I’ll find out but first have to order a cup tip punch to do it right.

Does anyone know if the rimfire firing pin is the same as the center fire? There are extended center fire pins available but they all say not for rimfire. I don’t know if this is because of the shape or because of the risk of dinging the chamber edge? Some also state that they fit only post 1997 frames - I guess a change was made?

FWIW, (and I'm certainly no expert) my first thought would be a firing pin damaged by someone dry-firing this one.

The gun doesn't appear to have been shot enough to have any kind of significant wear issues. It is certainly possible that it is just gunked up with powder residues, that also seems unlikely based on its overall condition. It just doesn't look like it has been shot enough for powder fouling to be an issue.

So to me the most likely and logical explanation for the light strikes would be a mechanical issue. I'm thinking firing pin damage due to dry-firing.

S&W and pretty much every other manufacturer advises against dry-firing their 22LRs because of the potential for damaging the firing pin. So that would be the first thing I'd suspect.

JMO and YMMV...

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Send lawyers, guns & money...

To the best of my knowledge the rimfire and centerfire firing pins are not the same.

Pretty much every rimfire firing pin I've ever seen has a rectangular "nose" profile - whereas every centerfire firing pin I have seen has a round "nose" profile.

But it is certainly possible that there to be exceptions I am unaware of.

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Send lawyers, guns & money...

I don’t think this firing pin is damaged. I can push it forward with the hammer back and everything feels proper. It just doesn’t protrude as much as the one on my Model 17.

The firing pin tip on both the M17 and M35 is round just like a center fire. Both are undamaged.

I’ve been looking online at some extended firing pins. In one review it is claimed the pin is actually the same length but provides longer travel due to the crosscut being set further back?

So now I’m wondering what actually limits the forward protrusion - the front wall of the socket or the retaining pin?

OK, I'll stand corrected on the pin shape.

So you are thinking the firing pin is too short or the wrong shape? If that's not due to damage, what else would it be? Factory defect?

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Send lawyers, guns & money...

Yes, I believe it is a factory fit problem and is the reason the gun has barely been used.

Further research has revealed that this gun has the old style frame mounted firing pin with the bushing in the front. To remove it, the retaining pin must be removed and then the firing pin and bushing are driven out from back to front.

I believe that I can fix the issue by polishing approx 5 thou off the back of the bushing thus allowing that much more forward travel of the firing pin.

Well my cup tipped punch arrived from Brownells today. Took a shot at driving out the firing pin bushing retaining pin. Nope - wouldn’t budge!
All I did mushroom the head of the punch!?

Think I’ll start a new thread in the gunsmithing section and if I can find some expert advice.

Before you start taking it apart you should do more troubleshooting.
Have you measured the firing pin travel length? Cock the hammer with the cylinder open by pushing the thumb latch to the rear.

Now push the firing pin forward from the hammer channel with a screw driver. Measure how far the pin protrudes.

Have you looked at the ends of the coil mainspring? Is there evidence of the spring being shortened on either end?
Insert a washer under the bottom end of the spring and shoot a few rounds. Do they fire now?

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Pretty difficult to get any calipers or micrometer to measure the firing pin protrusion. Fudging it with feeler gauges, it seems to protrude 5-8 thou less than the one on my model 17.

I thought of the washer trick but thought that the compressed spring looked so tight already that only a very thin washer might fit. I will try it anyway.

(Sorry for the delayed response. I thought the thread had gone dormant. I will monitor it more closely).

Appreciate the help!

If the DA trigger pulls FEELS light, the hammer spring may have been shortened like Hondo44 suggested. Old dried oil in the firing pin channel can gunk up the spring causing a problem. If you are trying to shim the hammer spring you might as well just replace it while you have it off. Not as easy as cleaning crud from the firing pin/spring.

Good luck with it. It looks like a nice little gun and they are fun, when they work well. BTW, I have stock hammer springs.

A new stock S&W spring is on the way.

Had a chance to work on this a little more this week. Unfortunately. USPS has decided to keep the spring that Retired W4 kindly sent me so I wasn't able to try that.

I did manage to get an accurate measurement of the firing pin protrusion which came in at .034 inch - well within spec.

So back to the hammer spring. I managed to fit about a 1/8 inch shim in there and took it to the range today. The first four cylinders fired flawlessly in SA. Then as it got dirty it started missing. Pretty good progress I think! The hammer spring gurus were right!

My research indicates that the OEM spring is rated at 8.5lbs. My shim maybe boosted that to 9? Certain rimfire models like the 317 and 650 used a heavier red 12lb spring. I think my next step is to hunt down a 12lb spring and try that.

Here's a pic of my shim:

Attached Images

S&W M35-1.jpg (194.4 KB, 47 views)

Received and installed a red 12lb spring this weekend. Took it to the range today and was pleased to experience perfect functioning.

This spring is considerably chunkier than the original, intended I believe for 22mag. It fit with no issues and the firing pin indents are substantially deeper than the original. The pic shows the new strikes on the top and the lighter original strikes on the bottom. The difference is easy to see!

Single action trigger pull remained unchanged at 2.5lbs but double action increased 2lbs to 10.5. I mostly shoot SA so will happily live with that. Glad to have this one sorted out!

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	S&W M35-2.jpg (177.8 KB, 54 views)
	S&W M35-3.jpg (179.8 KB, 59 views)
	S&W M35-4.jpg (108.1 KB, 79 views)

Hey, stop hogging all the model 35’s.

I'm glad your little 22 functions now. Maybe someday some postal worker will find an envelope with a spring in it in a dusty corner somewhere around Atlanta.

Thanks for trying - it’s very much appreciated! I’ll let you know if it ever does show up.

Thanks to all who offered advice. The hammer spring gurus set me on the right track.

I owned a M34 for many years. SA was fine, but FTF in DA was 50/50. I cleaned, changed the mainspring, etc. Nothing helped.

I finally sold it.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

Not being one to leave well enough alone I had to keep digging.
So I whipped up a little spring testing gauge to see what I'm really working with.

First I tested the known-rated 12lb new spring and it tested - 12lbs!
Next, the unknown original spring and it tested - 6lbs!!
Spec says it should be 8.5lbs. It does not appear to be shortened as both ends are finished. I suppose someone may have swapped in a light spring but why leave it there if it results in light strikes?

Wolff has 8.5 and 9lbs available so I think I'll try those next to see if I can get the DA pull back into a more reasonable range.

The tension of the rebound spring can be felt upon cocking and DA trigger pull but is static when the hammer falls. The one thing I do to smooth the DA pull is polish the rebound slide on the bottom and left side. Then I polish the frame where it contacts the slide, lower and left side. I would go with the lightest rebound spring that give an acceptable trigger return for fast follow up shots. The slide to frame metal to metal contact represents the most MtoM contact (friction) on the entire action. Any roughness on those surfaces produces heavier DA pull and slower trigger return but does not effect the force of hammer fall.

Beyond that, the movement of the floating firing pin must be unimpeded for consistent ignition. Now for another cup of expresso.

Woohoo! The hammer spring that Retired W4 sent me arrived in the mail yesterday. It only took USPS 6.5 weeks to move it from Georgia to Florida.

It measures 8lbs on my gauge. I’ll try it next. I suspect I will find a sweet spot somewhere between 8 and 12.

I have installed the above mentioned spring and the strikes on empty cases look promising. Can't get to the range today as it's raining cats and dogs.

Here's a couple of pics of my fast and dirty spring testing gauge. There is a mark on the shaft to indicate the pull distance. I use a Lyman trigger gauge when the weights are low enough. It seems to be the most accurate - reads about a half pound higher than the spring scale.

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	Spr Tst 1.jpg (188.7 KB, 18 views)
	Spr Tst 2.jpg (151.1 KB, 19 views)

Finally got back to the range today to test it with the factory 8.5lb spring. Flawless function in single action but only about 50% in double action. The 9lb spring will be up next - I know I’m getting close.

Well the 9lb spring performed no better than the 8.5. I have reinstalled the 12lb and it is happy again. Think I’ll live with that.

What about a 10lb, 10.5, etc.?

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Jim
S&WCA #819

I had to get out my 35-1 and check out the double action and single action pull. Those numbers you measure seem very high. I don't have a trigger gage but it seems more like 6 pounds at the most. Never had a failure to fire either in DA or SA. I think you need a real gun smith to check it out.

Attached Images

Model 35-1 RH.jpg (66.2 KB, 4 views)

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S&WHF #946
S&WCA #3824

Yeah, been thinking about that. None made that I know of so I guess it would be shimming the 9 or clipping coils off the 12.
It does seem abnormal that it needs such a strong spring.