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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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Old 03-04-2024, 10:17 PM
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Default Trigger/hammer change...now no function

Got a K-22 out of an estate. Have been sitting on a wide hammer and trigger and fat grips for some time. Changed hammer & trigger. Now, no function.

I don't know the names of the parts, but here goes. There is a flat place on the top rear of the trigger. There is a pinned-in bar on the front of the hammer. This little bar will not move onto the top of the trigger. Easy enuff to see why it won't work.

Is this just a shorten-the-little-steel bar job or am I missing something??

PJH
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Old 03-04-2024, 10:31 PM
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Sounds like the "double action sear" on the (new) hammer is a bit too long. Have you tried moving this sear from the old hammer to the new replacement hammer? You might try doing this first, rather than cutting/fitting the sear in the new hammer.

The sear is held in place by a small pin. There is a small spring behind the sear, which rests in small cavities in the back of the sear, and the opening in the front of the hammer.


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Last edited by armorer951; 03-04-2024 at 10:33 PM.
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Old 03-04-2024, 10:32 PM
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This video shows how these parts interact, 3D Animation: How a Double-Action Revolver works - YouTube
Find out at what part of the trigger movement it doesn work anymore. I would take the side plate off and remove the hammer spring assembly to reduce strain on the singleside supported pins or they might break. Can you cycle the action in single action mode?!
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Old 03-05-2024, 10:19 AM
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The sear must be cut at a certain angle, and to me is a kind of an art form. I avoid it. I would either change the sears from the old hammer to the target one and see if that works. If that does not work, I would put the old parts back in and call it good!
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Old 03-05-2024, 10:39 AM
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Before I would start "cutting and fitting" or changing out something that I really didn't know what I was doing, I would definitely take it to a gunsmith to have it done right. Or as suggested, put the target hammer and trigger back in the drawer and put the original parts back in. Too nice of a gun to mess something else on it inside while you are guessing what to do. Good luck.
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Old 03-05-2024, 11:37 AM
Mike, SC Hunter Mike, SC Hunter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armorer951 View Post
Sounds like the "double action sear" on the (new) hammer is a bit too long. Have you tried moving this sear from the old hammer to the new replacement hammer? You might try doing this first, rather than cutting/fitting the sear in the new hammer.

The sear is held in place by a small pin. There is a small spring behind the sear, which rests in small cavities in the back of the sear, and the opening in the front of the hammer.


Carter
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Old 03-05-2024, 06:50 PM
Muley Gil Muley Gil is offline
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If you do decide to swap the double action sears, it might be a good idea to disassemble the original hammer inside of a large plastic bag. It is real easy to lose the tiny spring that powers the DA sear.
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Old 03-05-2024, 09:19 PM
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That little spring is one that just LOVES to fly somewhere. I use a medium size clear plastic box with carpet.
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Old 03-06-2024, 12:13 AM
Shotguncoach Shotguncoach is offline
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Are you able to post a picture of your gun in the current state? Sideplate off, of course.

I discovered that there is a way to assemble the hammer and trigger so that they are out of phase with each other when I was first starting to take apart and reassemble Smiths. That locks everything up tight.....

I've also assembled them with the trigger lever (the little rod poking out of the back of the trigger) on the wrong side of the frame so that it ends up inside the trigger guard. It won't cycle that way either.
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Old 03-06-2024, 12:32 AM
Shotguncoach Shotguncoach is offline
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I just had another thought (I know it's dangerous and I try not to do it very often): How old is this K-22 that you're working on?

By any chance does one hammer have the spur quite a bit higher up on the hammer body than the other one? Like one with the spur in the middle and the other with the spur towards the top, near the rear sight?
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Old 03-06-2024, 12:46 AM
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when swapping the DA sears to use the orig one, I put some scotch tape around the depressed sears and the into a large zip Baggy to drive out the sear pins. double up way to reduce losing the sears. I keep a lot of xtra sear springs , too LOL.
after getting the sear spring and sear back on the hammer, while holding it sorta lined up I put loosely
placed scotch tape around it to help keep it down while I try to align up the already started sear pin on the hammer to try to tap it into alignment correct spot..Its just a real tedious effort to do it alright.
Part of the fun..
Best, Randy..
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