If you are going to get into revolvers, eventually you will wind up with a bunch of them. I suggest you start with the list you have already investigated add a 17, 18, 27,28, maybe a 29 and a 500. Then keeping all those in mind buy them in the order you find a good deal on with the price you are willing to pay. That process will get you to your wish list a lot faster and will be a lot of fun too.

Well I didn't pick one but I picked two... a model 66 no dash and a model 10-6. I have a lot of questions about the no dash. The 10-6, other than a couple marks in the finish, is in excellent condition.

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You did well! Very well! Get yourself some 158 grain 38 special fodder, and go shoot. You will very quickly understand the fascination a lot of us have for the Smith & Wesson K Frame revolver.

I recently shot a ruger security six and an astra police. The triggers on the Smiths are literally a world of difference - SMOOTH.

I have a few questions/concerns about the 66 if anyone is able to potentially assist

What questions/concerns do you have?

I noticed some numbers that aren't serial matching. I'll post a picture of them.... I dont know what theyre for.

It has two different grips on it, I guess. Which one is correct? Picture for reference.

Also I noticed the cylinder release button is quite loose, especially in comparison to the 10-6 which does not wiggle in place. Is there a way to remedy that?

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Those are assembly numbers. Someone who knows a lot about the assembly of these revolvers might be able to give you a bit more information.

Model 66 no-dash would have had target stocks with the football relief.

Try a proper gunsmith screwdriver that fits the slot perfectly to see if it has backed out a bit.

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In looking at your photo of the Model 66 more closely, it does look like the thumb-piece nut might have backed out a little. It should sit more flush like your Model 10-6.

Alright that's what I thought. It's not a big deal to me that these aren't original. Does it pay to grab up an original set or use an aftermarket option that may be more comfortable / practical?

I'll also see what I can find for a screwdriver to fit that slot. I don't have a "gunsmith" set but I do have a large array of tools to use. I'll only try to snug it up with a nice-fitting flathead, though.

It might make a difference if you decided to sell it at some point. The target stocks with the football relief to match your Model 66 will be expensive. If you are keeping it, go with what you like best. There are quite a few folks out there that like the grips you have with the addition of a grip adapter. I personally like that combination better than the factory targets. If factory targets are what you want, just watch the classified section here. They come up for sale regularly. Depending on when your revolver was manufactured, the washers on the inside of the stocks may be either black or silver. Black are earlier. I have been told the cut-off for black washers was 1973, but I do not know for sure. The Model 66 no-dash was manufactured from 1971 through 1976.

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If you like/prefer "blue" add a 586 to your list..... blue version of the 686.

Congrats good choices.

I find that a +P .38 hollow point is good for urban carry
I switch to a .357 158gr soft point for Penn's Woods carry
Safariland makes a nice speedloader .... Comp II

I just noticed something else about your Model 66. The rear sight might have been changed and an insert added to the front sight. The first of the Model 66's had a stainless rear sight and no insert. I do not know if all of the 66 no-dash revolvers were the same. It in no way reduces the shoot-ability, in fact it increases it, but does reduce the collector's value. If it was in fact modified.

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Which of the stocks on it do you like better? The squared off magna or the more rounded type service stocks like on your Model 10-6.

By serial number it looks like this one was made in 1976. I do have the original smith box that came with it.

As far as original stock, I'll keep my eye out I suppose. I can stash them in the box and run it as it is for now. What's a decent price for them?

Obviously you guys would know much more about these than I would. I've read about the stainless rear sight possibly being discontinued mid-model in favor of this style sight. I could be completely wrong on that, though.

Overall, I'm very pleased with it. I really enjoy the trigger pull of it - it's the best revolver trigger I've handled. The single stage is hair trigger - the lightest I've ever felt on any gun. Something I'll definitely have to get used to / be aware of before using that feature outside of a controlled range setting.

I may have over paid for it but overall I'm really happy with it. The stocks being two different styles kind of bothers me but it's functional at least.

Thanks for the advice on the speedloader - I'm going to order a few.

1976 will be silver washers on the stocks. They will be over $100 for a set that matches the condition of your revolver. It is quite possible that by 1976 they we no longer putting stainless rear sights on them, and the front sight has a factory insert. Someone here with more knowledge is likely to chime in eventually.

Finding a single stock to match the style you like better is not an insurmountable task.

I am unsure at this point you can overpay for a solid Smith & Wesson revolver of the vintage you have. We will not see their like being manufactured again, so if you paid a little more than todays going rate, tomorrow it will seem a bargain. The enjoyment from owning such a fine sidearm far outweighs the cost.

Seems Ebay has a few sets for around $100. Some less some more.

The problem is: I'm not sure what today's going rate is for these, I just took a chance.

I look at it as an investment, as I do most of my gun purchases. Rather than my money sit in a safe, or worse - a bank, it sits in items that won't depreciate and that I love - guns.

I'll look more into it and see what I can do about the stocks.

After a bit of research it appears that the stainless sights on the Model 66 were only used for about a year and a half. Complaints about how reflective they were forced the change. So, your revolver is correct except for the stocks. Having the original box, original stocks and the tool kit would increase the value of your revolver. The tool kit consisted of a screwdriver for sight adjustment, and a cleaning rod and brush. The tools are not hard to find.