I have a 27-2 which sat in my fathers cabinet for the last 25 years and could use a little TLC.

In the past I would have used a BC Silicone cloth. Is there something better?

Thanks!

I'm afraid you need to be a little more specific. Are we talking rust, dust, just general grunge, etc.? Different approaches for all I'm afraid. How about a few pics?

Thank you for responding @Patrick_L. Sorry if I was not clear. This is a product question. Whatever you accomplished in the past with a Birchwood Casey Silicone cloth, if you ever used one. Has something better come along?

Can you post pictures of the gun? A silicone cloth is what you use after you clean a gun, to shine it or put a protective layer on it. Doesn't matter what brand. Take the stocks off and post some profile pictures of both sides and one with the cylinder open, so we can see just what it needs.

Personally, if mine had sat untended for so long, I'd do a thorough cleaning with Hoppes, then a light polish with Flitz, and then wax it with Renaissance Wax.

If your father's 27-2 just needs a wipe off or quick surface cleaning, most of us will use some type of spray CLP (cleaner, lubricant, preservative) and a microfiber cloth, followed by an application of Renaissance Wax (museum quality wax) or Johnson's Paste Wax. A quick buff and you're through. Silicone cloths are still available and effective, but they don't really clean and lubricate.

We just want to see the gun!

__________________
213th FBINA

Like Hawg Rider said, if it's just years of non use, a general spraydown and then wipe with CLP, Rem Oil, G96 etc. would probably do it. If on the other hand there is firing residue, leading etc. that would need to be dealt with via traditional cleaning methods first. I agree, a silicone cloth is fine for wiping it down before you put it back in the safe, but they really don't do much more.

This is just my opinion.

Sorta like your car ... clean off any grime and wax it !

The Model 58 in my avatar was carried by a Louisiana Motorcycle Policeman for 15 years and showed it ... light surface rust and "freckles"
I cleaned it with Turtle Wax Chrome polish and Rust Remover ... when all the light surface rust was removed ... and the cleaned gun was given two coats of wax ( Mothers Pure Carnuba ) she looked Danged Good ...
A lot better than I ever imagined ... Good enough not to need a reblue .
Just follow the directions on the TWCPARR (Turtle Wax Chrome Polish and Rust Remover
Gary

__________________
Certified Cajun
NRA Member

After exiting Dunkin Gunwash, all mine ever get is a light rubdown with a dry rag......Ben

__________________
Cogito, ergo BOOM!...

Clean it thoroughly with standard gun solvent. Wipe it completely streak-free with a soft cotton cloth - old T-shirts are great. Then apply, let dry, and buff off two or three coats of Birchwood Casey Gunstock Wax on (especially) all exterior metal. Not only will the revolver look great, the exterior will clean up more easily next time it is used.

I've used exactly this on blued firearms since the '70s with always excellent results.

Thank for the info.

There are a few spots. They look like watermarks. I will try to get some pix.

For now;

You will want to get those stocks (grips) off before you start the process. You will probably find some old dried oil under them. That thing looks pretty good so it should not need much. Good luck.

I have had good results cleaning blue and nickel firearms with Flitz polish or Wenol polish in the blue tube. Using these compounds will sometimes remove "water marks" in the finish, whereas using regular cleaning solvents (I use Clenzoil) will not. These compounds should be used sparingly and somewhat cautiously as too much vigor will also remove blue and nickel finishes.

Bill

Thank you.

I hesistate to use anything abrasive although I will probably end up doing so. I have some Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish.

Just remember to do it gently and by hand. No power tools or anything. I'm a Flitz and Ren Wax fan, but I've got them. If I had something else, I'd use that. Heck, I started off using Pledge Furniture Polish and it worked for shine up and keeping rust off. Left a nice lemony smell too.

__________________
John 3:16 .

Mother's Mag & Aluminum Wheel Polish should work just fine. Go slow, no power tools, just a very soft cloth and polish gently.

__________________
VCDL, GOA, NRA

At the risk of starting a debate about "refinishing", I used Mother's mag polish, and a felt wheel in my Dremel tool to clean this one up.

I gave it a good cleaning with TCP first. The bare steel polished up to the point that it is hard to tell where the nickel is missing.

Judge the results for yourself...

Attached Images

	20200128_165037.jpg (78.6 KB, 32 views)
	RightSide.jpg (205.2 KB, 33 views)
	20200128_165002.jpg (79.2 KB, 32 views)
	LeftSide.jpg (173.8 KB, 33 views)

__________________
Send lawyers, guns & money...

If a gun sat idle for 25 years I would say it needs a complete disassembly, cleaning and proper lubrication - at least IMHO. To do so should only take an hour or so. Of course that requires the knowledge and skills to do it. If you aren't familiar with the procedure, have the tools to do it with or the inclination, a professional LGS should be able to do it for under $100 since other than a few patches, a little solvent and oil, there should not be any expense other than the labor (assuming everything inside is good to go).

After sitting idle for that long - the lubes from that time period would more than likely be congealed, hardened and possibly laden with debris. If it were mine, that is what I'd do.

Good advice. If you lack the tools and knowledge to disassemble and reassemble one yourself, and can't afford the cost to pay a gunsmith to do it, you can always take the grips off and then plunk the whole revolver into a bath of acetone & automatic transmission fluid (50/50 mix).

Let it soak a few days then blow the interior out (through the hammer and trigger openings) with compressed air. Then give it another soak for a day or two and repeat the process until the compressed air is no longer blowing any dark, grimy gunk out of the hammer & trigger openings.

At that point a good wipe-down and a few drops of quality gun oil into the trigger & hammer openings, and maybe onto both ends of the ejector rod (including under the extractor star) to lube the moving parts and VOILA'; you've accomplished about 98% of what you would by doing a full disassembly.

At least that is my experience, and as always, YMMV.

__________________
Send lawyers, guns & money...