Min. bbl length for full travel of ejector rod?

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Lou_NC

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I've been admiring a number of the photo shoots of the snubbies, and it has me wondering.....

Has anyone ever compiled a list of the minimum barrel lengths, for each caliber, in each frame size, that allow for "full travel" of the ejector rod so that the cases completely clear the cylinder upon ejection?

I like the snubbies but I'm not a big fan of having to pick cases out of the chambers under stress.

My guess is that three inches may be the minimum. However in my Taurus model 85 3-inch(admittedly not a S&W), they used the SAME ejector rod and travel as on the 2-inch. Makes me crazy some times because they could have fit a longer rod in there I think.

Thanks,
Lou
 
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I've been admiring a number of the photo shoots of the snubbies, and it has me wondering.....

Has anyone ever compiled a list of the minimum barrel lengths, for each caliber, in each frame size, that allow for "full travel" of the ejector rod so that the cases completely clear the cylinder upon ejection?

I like the snubbies but I'm not a big fan of having to pick cases out of the chambers under stress.

My guess is that three inches may be the minimum. However in my Taurus model 85 3-inch(admittedly not a S&W), they used the SAME ejector rod and travel as on the 2-inch. Makes me crazy some times because they could have fit a longer rod in there I think.

Thanks,
Lou
 
In the K/L frame models it seems like 3" barrels are minimum for a full length ejector rods.
I'll need to go look, the 2.5" M10 has a longer ejector rod than a 2", but I'm not sure it's full length as found on the 3" guns.
In the N frame, they've done it in the 2 5/8" barrel lengths, but most of the one's seen often are the 3 inch guns.
 
That's One of the Main Reasons I went with a 3" Barrel on my Newly Aquired CS-1/MOD686 L Frame.
I like that Magnum Brass fully ejects.
Had no Idea that a 2" & 2-1/2" M10s had different lenth ejector rods..
Gary/Hk
cs16hc7.jpg
 
Sir, I don't have a full list, but here are a few that I've personally observed.

Not long enough:
* 2-1/2-inch Model 66/19
* 3-inch Model 629-1
* 2-inch Model 36/60 (.38 spl)

Long enough:
* 3-inch Model 66
* 3-1/2-inch Model 27

A 3-inch Model 36-1 looks like it would be long enough, but I haven't personally tried it.

Of course, this is complicated somewhat by the different barrel shrouds that Smith has used. For example, I've seen photos of a 2-1/2 or 3-inch N-frame that had a full-length ejector rod. Also, revolvers chambered for short auto cartridges such as 9 mm, .40 S&W, and .45 ACP can get by with a shorter ejector rod than you need for magnum-length revolver cartridges. [shrug]

Hope this helps, and Semper Fi.

Ron H.
 
I'm not certain if there's a difference between a 629-1 and a 629-2, however my 629-2 ejects magnum cases clear out of the cylinder.

 
Originally posted by Snapping Twig:
I'm not certain if there's a difference between a 629-1 and a 629-2, however my 629-2 ejects magnum cases clear out of the cylinder.
Click to expand...

Sir, my 629-1 had the same short ejector rod that yours has. It would eject the cases when moved smartly, but the ejector rod's travel was less than the case length. In other words, it depended on the momentum of the moving cases and/or gravity to get them out of the cylinder, as opposed to having the ejector rod push them clear.

Hope this helps, and Semper Fi.

Ron H.
 
With proper reloading technique, shorter ejection rods are not really a problem.

Instead of using my left thumb to press down on the ejector while reaching for a speedloader with my right, I use the palm of my right hand to forcibly smack the ejector, then get the loader. 99% of the time all the cases are gone. The few that aren't are easily swiped away.
 
Originally posted by Wyatt Earp:
With proper reloading technique, shorter ejection rods are not really a problem.

Instead of using my left thumb to press down on the ejector while reaching for a speedloader with my right, I use the palm of my right hand to forcibly smack the ejector, then get the loader. 99% of the time all the cases are gone. The few that aren't are easily swiped away.
Click to expand...

Wyatt, what you're describing is what I call a "work-around", not a "solution".
icon_smile.gif


I've been muddling along with reloading my J-frame snubby in the way you describe and yes, it can be made to work. Things like polishing the chambers can also help. What I'm trying to find out is exactly how long a barrel/ejector rod I need to switch to in order to completely eject the cases, without having to resort to the "work around" you describe.
 
Lou,

It's not just a work-around. In a combat situation, it's the only way, no matter how long the ejector rod is. What you can't tolerate, in a desperate situation, is one or more cases getting caught under the star. That can get you killed. A slow push with a thumb may work OK when you're at the range. Real life with a dirty gun is something else.

The technique changes a bit between strong and weak hand reloads, but the important thing is to eject, not extract.

Buck
 
Ron

I'm going to go to the bench and put some empties in my 3" 629 and see what's what.

I had a 2.5" 686 and it was different, there was no way it could kick out the cases and I sold it for that reason, I couldn't live with that. This 629 is a world apart, but to be fair, I'll double check to see if it's the way I do it or the length of the ejector rod.

I eject by holding the revolver in my right hand, barrel up and use my middle finger on my right hand to work the ejector. One push, they're on the floor.
 
I believe there was only one run of 3" non-PC 629s with full length ejector rods. Lew Horton made 135 of these 629-4s in 1996 (Sportsterguy wrote Lew Horton for that information). I believe another almost identical run was made the same year with "half" ejector rods and solid black front and rear sights.

DSC00005.jpg
 
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