Gentlemen,

I need info/advice/guidance… basically all the help I can get.

I recently purchased a 2” model 34 – nothing. It looked to be in excellent shape with a minimum of use. It was not inexpensive, but out here in Kali, we sometimes have to pay a premium for the pistols we want.

Anyhow, it seemed to check-out mechanically and I bought it. When I took it at the range I put my target at a whopping 10 feet. I was not expecting a tack-driver, but I was expecting more than I got. First shot was very high and to the left (think 12” from point of aim). Second shot far right, third shot low left, and so on and so on. Basically this pistol was putting them everywhere with no consistency, its wildly inaccurate.

So I took it home trying to figure out what is wrong. Timing, lock-up, endshake are all just fine. Good rifling in the barrel. I got it in my head that maybe some enterprising fellow bored-out the cylinders to 22 mag dimensions and this is not the case. However, I did discover that a 22 LR round can be inserted completely bassackwards into the front of cylinder. As in, open the cylinder take 22 LR round, and insert it bullet end first in the out door of the cylinder all the way until the rim of the round stops further travel.

I cannot do this on my Mdl 18 or K22; they will both accept the bullet, but not the brass of the round.

So is this the reason for the accuracy problem, should I try to find another cylinder, should I sell the gun for parts, what do I do? I don’t want to sell it or put it on consignment making it someone else’s problem.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Gentlemen,

I need info/advice/guidance… basically all the help I can get.

I recently purchased a 2” model 34 – nothing. It looked to be in excellent shape with a minimum of use. It was not inexpensive, but out here in Kali, we sometimes have to pay a premium for the pistols we want.

Anyhow, it seemed to check-out mechanically and I bought it. When I took it at the range I put my target at a whopping 10 feet. I was not expecting a tack-driver, but I was expecting more than I got. First shot was very high and to the left (think 12” from point of aim). Second shot far right, third shot low left, and so on and so on. Basically this pistol was putting them everywhere with no consistency, its wildly inaccurate.

So I took it home trying to figure out what is wrong. Timing, lock-up, endshake are all just fine. Good rifling in the barrel. I got it in my head that maybe some enterprising fellow bored-out the cylinders to 22 mag dimensions and this is not the case. However, I did discover that a 22 LR round can be inserted completely bassackwards into the front of cylinder. As in, open the cylinder take 22 LR round, and insert it bullet end first in the out door of the cylinder all the way until the rim of the round stops further travel.

I cannot do this on my Mdl 18 or K22; they will both accept the bullet, but not the brass of the round.

So is this the reason for the accuracy problem, should I try to find another cylinder, should I sell the gun for parts, what do I do? I don’t want to sell it or put it on consignment making it someone else’s problem.

Any advice would be appreciated.

In for a penny in for a pound...

Sounds like the cylinder throats are oversized, but I'm hesitant to say that it alone is causing the inaccuracy. Are you seeing severe leading? Or spitting lead?

I looked at my 34-1 2" and I can do just as you say, can with a bit more effort(took none on the 34) on my 18 but 17 no and 63 no

my 34 is a little tack driver.....but it takes a bit of work to get good with a J frame regardless

my guess is....you just need to shoot it some more and/or change ammo

Were the fired cases swollen? Possible someone reamed it to .22 wmrf if they are. Also check rear sight is tight. Let us know what the problem was. I have one too.

That's a good point, my early 43's front screw for the rear sight loosened up causing some havoc..it slipped my feeble mind.

Good points.

I did check the sight for loosness and that doesn't seem to be the issue.

I didn't think to check the fired cases so I'll come back with info tomorrow.

I'm hitting the range tomorrow and I'm bringing a Dutch-mix of ammo and I'll let you all know what happens.

Bring a friend to the range and see if it does the same with them, And then if it is still bad, Sell it to me to tinker with!
I have a feeling that it is going to be all right!
Peter.

__________________
Need 1/2 moon Chiefs special

Your experience sounds familiar. I had the same thing happen to me on a .38 Model 15 2". Turns out the cylinder would chamber .357 rounds. The cylinder "looked" OK to the naked eye because of the fouling ring but it was bored straight through. S&W could not help as they had no more K frame cylinders. I located one from GPC and sent the gun and cyl. to S&W who fitted the good cylinder and now the gun shoots beautifully. While the accuracy was not initially as bad as you describe your is, it was not very good. I mention all this as there is a way to salvage an otherwise good gun but it will take some more $$$. Good luck and let us know how it turns out. T44

If it were mine, I'd send it off to Smith for a complete checkup.

Just got back from the range with the little 34.

Prior to going to the range I gave it a through cleaning, scurbbed the bore until there was not trace of lead. Cleaned the cylinders, and basically made the gun spotless.

Brought several variets of 22 including Winchester Wildcat, CCI High Velocity, CCI Standard Velocity, Federal bulk pack, and Winchester High Velocity. Also took my brother.

Long story short, the pistol does not shoot regardless of the ammo or operator (me or my brother). I'm scratching my head.

Not sure what to do with it at this time. I have a hard time believing the cylinder is causing this much inaccuracy. I'm guessing its just a lemon. I probably will end-up sending it S&W to get their opinion but that will have to wait for about a month. I'll post what they say when I get it back.

Thanks for the insight and assistance gents.

bummer

It sure sounds like a head-scratcher. The only other thing you have not mentioned that affects accuracy is the muzzle crown. If the muzzle crown is damaged or improperly machined, it can certainly have an adverse effect on accuracy. Incidentally, the damage to the crown is often caused by improper cleaning techniques and is one of the things I check when buying a used firearm.

Best of luck with your problem,
Steve

I second checking the crown. After that, I would send the Smith.

You sure the barrel or clyinder aint loose? Maybe somebody put a loose hinge on the grip frame? Just a little humor attempt!

Just because the timing feels good does not mean the cylinders are indexing properly with the barrel. Try this, mark each cylinder with a sharpie 1-6 then shoot several rounds through each cylinder and see if some pattern and some dont. If the crown does not have obvious damage I would say you need a new cylinder. I hade this exact same problem with another revolver. I sent it to smith and they called the cylinder bad and replaced it. After I got it back it was good to go.I also have an early 34 and the chambers are tight on the outlet end. I bet the cylinder is reamed wrong and needs to be replaced.
Matt