|
|
08-13-2009, 03:15 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
|
|
S&W Model 10
I just recently purchased my first revolver, a S&W Model 10. I am curious to its age though. The number inside the yoke is 8286. rhe S&W logo that is typically engraved on the right side of the gun, is on the left side and a little smaller than normal. Also, the extractor rod is does not have a shroud around it when the cylinder is locked into place. Anyone have any ideas?
Last edited by skprice44; 08-13-2009 at 03:21 PM.
|
08-13-2009, 03:33 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Morgan County Alabama -
Posts: 440
Likes: 156
Liked 134 Times in 58 Posts
|
|
What a great revolver to start with! Huge congratulations.
If you provide the s/n with "xx" as the last two digits, you'll enable us to provide an answer to your question.
The s/n is on the botton of the grip frame.
|
08-13-2009, 03:38 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
|
|
I looked under the grips, but all that is on the frame is JB4, but that is around the peg that holds the bottom of the grip. On the underside however, the number is 6277xx. This number is all over the gun; on the frame, on the backside of the grips, etc. I thought that this was just the machining #, but I could be wrong.
|
08-13-2009, 03:41 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 185
Liked 214 Times in 72 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by skprice44
I just recently purchased my first revolver, a S&W Model 10. I am curious to its age though. The number inside the yoke is 8286. rhe S&W logo that is typically engraved on the right side of the gun, is on the left side and a little smaller than normal. Also, the extractor rod is does not have a shroud around it when the cylinder is locked into place. Anyone have any ideas?
|
According to my Smith and Wesson book the revolver would be around 1900. Now you also need to look on the bottom of the grips and see it you see the same number. If you have aftermarket grips you will need to take them off to see if you can locate the number. A picture would help too. If I am right this is a pre-10 or M&P 38 special hand ejector.
Hope this helps
|
08-13-2009, 03:44 PM
|
|
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,321
Likes: 10,450
Liked 6,099 Times in 1,249 Posts
|
|
Hi skprice44 and welcome to the Forum! Your question concerns one of the very best Smith & Wesson revolver models ever made.
The revisions of the Model 10 are marked on the inside of the frame at the front, visible when the cylinder is opened. For example my favorite Model 10 shows Mod. 10-6. The number we need to know in order to date it is on the butt at the bottom of the grip frame. Just curious but what barrel length does it feature and is is it the Heavy Barrel version or does it have a tapered barrel?
|
08-13-2009, 03:44 PM
|
|
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,321
Likes: 10,450
Liked 6,099 Times in 1,249 Posts
|
|
We love photos too.
|
08-13-2009, 03:46 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
|
|
Helps quite a bit. Everything on this gun is original. The number in the bottom of the gun match the numbers that are located everywhere else, including on the back side of the grips.
|
08-13-2009, 03:51 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcgilvray
Hi skprice44 and welcome to the Forum! Your question concerns one of the very best Smith & Wesson revolver models ever made.
The revisions of the Model 10 are marked on the inside of the frame at the front, visible when the cylinder is opened. For example my favorite Model 10 shows Mod. 10-6. The number we need to know in order to date it is on the butt at the bottom of the grip frame. Just curious but what barrel length does it feature and is is it the Heavy Barrel version or does it have a tapered barrel?
|
The barrel is 4 inches long and the barrel is tappered. I will post pics tomorrow. . . .maybe. . . .if I remember to take them.
|
08-13-2009, 03:54 PM
|
|
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,321
Likes: 10,450
Liked 6,099 Times in 1,249 Posts
|
|
Do you see a letter prefix in front of it? I have several Model 10s with serial numbers on the butts that read C XXXXXX or D XXXXXX. My guns span a time period from the early '50s to the mid '70s.
My first Smith & Wesson revolver was a circa 1971 Model 10 with the -6 revision which denotes the Heavy Barrel variation. It's serial number is D 3623670. The 4-inch Heavy Barrels are sho'nuff shooters but the tapered barrel models are better looking in my view.
Actually I can scarcely tell the difference in shooting the Heavy Barrel and the standard 4-inch tapered barrel.
|
08-13-2009, 03:57 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcgilvray
Do you see a letter prefix in front of it? I have several Model 10s with serial numbers on the butts that read C XXXXXX or D XXXXXX. My guns span a time period from the early '50s to the mid '70s.
My first Smith & Wesson revolver was a circa 1971 Model 10 with the -6 revision which denotes the Heavy Barrel variation. It's serial number is D 3623670. The 4-inch Heavy Barrels are sho'nuff shooters but the tapered barrel models are better looking in my view.
Actually I can scarcely tell the difference in shooting the Heavy Barrel and the standard 4-inch tapered barrel.
|
No prefix, just the numbers.
|
08-13-2009, 04:16 PM
|
|
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,321
Likes: 10,450
Liked 6,099 Times in 1,249 Posts
|
|
Sounds pre-World War II then. Likely 1930s with a six-digit serial number of 6277XX. It was manufactured at least 20 years prior to the factory's assignment of the Model 10 designation to it's six-shot, fixed sight .38 Special revolver. Its an example of the famous and widely used "Military & Police" that did later become the Model 10.
For your future reference there's a topic category for "S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961" which is just the place to inquire about your new revolver. Your revolver will receive more exposure there.
Sure hope to see photos of your new acquisition. Pretty neato that it still has its matching grips.
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
08-13-2009, 09:34 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Kentucky, USA
Posts: 7,407
Likes: 2,830
Liked 6,261 Times in 2,170 Posts
|
|
I just wonder what you guys are all talking about. We've finally gotten to the point where most answers given are pretty clear and usually correct. I find this thread to be a swerve off course.
Yes, its in the wrong forum, but that doesn't excuse the wild guesses we're seeing.
The gun appears to be a military and police (M&P) produced in the very late 1920s. Yes, its the forerunner of the later M10. The 627,000s serial number is the give away.
__________________
Dick Burg
|
08-14-2009, 10:36 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
|
|
Attached is a picture of the revolver (if I did it right) . I was unsure as to which topic category to put it in as I was unsure of it age. Since it is a double action pistol, it could technically be considered a semi-automatic pistol. Thanks for all of the feed back. It has been a tremendous help!
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
06-25-2015, 05:45 PM
|
|
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,220
Likes: 3,683
Liked 2,181 Times in 556 Posts
|
|
I just found a 90% pre 10 with SN 5680xx. Can someone date and give approximate value? It's a blued 4 inch.
|
06-25-2015, 08:02 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 481
Likes: 89
Liked 214 Times in 120 Posts
|
|
haha I doubt will it certainly be considered semi auto but nice try lol
|
06-25-2015, 08:04 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 481
Likes: 89
Liked 214 Times in 120 Posts
|
|
that's a fine piece ya got there sir
|
06-25-2015, 09:05 PM
|
|
SWCA Member Absent Comrade
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: The kidney of Dixie.
Posts: 10,446
Likes: 49
Liked 13,416 Times in 3,292 Posts
|
|
19leben- Rather than tag onto a 6 year old threat, you should start your own. If it is a Military & Police with serial 5680xx it's likely from mid 1920s. For such an early gun in shooter condition I'd pay maybe $300. Somebody else would pay more. Somebody else would pay less. You "just found" it? Did you buy it or did you literally find it? If you bought it I think it's worth what you paid for it. But some guys don't understand what I mean by that so maybe I'm kooky.
__________________
No life story has happy end.
|
10-14-2019, 07:30 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
|
smith model 10
i have a 6'' model 10 needing help with the year it was made please. c4946_ _ Thank you in advance
|
10-14-2019, 07:35 PM
|
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 3,325
Likes: 1,780
Liked 7,429 Times in 1,928 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimvhobbies
i have a 6'' model 10 needing help with the year it was made please. c4946_ _ Thank you in advance
|
Early 1960s, probably 1961. Helps to start a new thread with good pictures.
__________________
Psalm 27:2
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
10-15-2019, 12:06 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 481
Likes: 119
Liked 163 Times in 97 Posts
|
|
skprice44 the picture you have shown is a 5 or 6 inch barrel. From the grips and hammer it appears to be an old M&P the forerunner of the Model 10. BTW the barrel is measured from the front of the cylinder to the end of the barrel. Many new owners think the barrel is measured where it screws into the frame to the end. While you can't go too wrong with one please don't shoot +P ammo in it even though it will chamber it. The +P ammo can cause excessive wear of some of the internal parts. the steel used back when it was made isn't as strong as the steels used today.
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
10-15-2019, 01:58 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: East of the Mississippi
Posts: 105
Likes: 15
Liked 32 Times in 20 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Knight
skprice44 the picture you have shown is a 5 or 6 inch barrel. From the grips and hammer it appears to be an old M&P the forerunner of the Model 10. BTW the barrel is measured from the front of the cylinder to the end of the barrel. Many new owners think the barrel is measured where it screws into the frame to the end. While you can't go too wrong with one please don't shoot +P ammo in it even though it will chamber it. The +P ammo can cause excessive wear of some of the internal parts. the steel used back when it was made isn't as strong as the steels used today.
|
IMO shooting +P ammo is not a problem as long as the gun is in well maintained and in good condition. Mid 19th century standard .38 special cartridges were loaded to much higher pressures than today's standard loads. However, one should not use +Ps excessively in older guns.
__________________
QM3
|
10-15-2019, 11:57 AM
|
US Veteran Absent Comrade
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 20,360
Likes: 24,260
Liked 16,158 Times in 7,409 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackpowder
IMO shooting +P ammo is not a problem as long as the gun is in well maintained and in good condition. Mid 19th century standard .38 special cartridges were loaded to much higher pressures than today's standard loads. However, one should not use +Ps excessively in older guns.
|
I think this oft-repeated Internet statement is incorrect. The power didn't change. But the means of recording velocity did, making the newer ammo seem less potent. But it was really just a matter of publishing more accurate velocity figures.
Old figures were taken from long pressure barrels without a gap.
The current system uses four-inch barrels and they have a gap (vent) like that between barrel and cylinder on real revolvers.
If you have a good modern chronograph, try firing some ammo made from the 1920's-1950s and some modern loads.
Firing much Plus P ammo in old guns made of softer steel may result in aggravated progress of cylinder endshake.
The OP's theory that having a DA revolver means that he has a semi-auto pistol is too unfounded to
address. I hope he was joking. He seems to be BADLY in need of some basic gun books
Last edited by Texas Star; 10-15-2019 at 12:11 PM.
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
|
Tags
|
627, ejector, engraved, extractor, hand ejector, military, model 1, model 10, pre-10, s&w, shroud, smith and wesson |
Posting Rules
|
|
|
|
|