Advice Needed: Large Rubber Grip 586 Perf. Ctr. 3" .357?

[S&WGuns]

Good Afternoon Everyone: I purchase a 586, Black, 3" .357 Performance Center Model yesterday at the gun show and I had a few questions:

1) Where and what type of rubber grip can I get to absorb as much recoil as possible? I shot 100 rounds of .38 Special 130 grain American Eagle today and while the muzzle flip was low and the recoil was moderate, I kept feeling an uncomfortable shock into my small hands. I am recoil sensitive. I would like to get a large grip to reduce the recoil as much as possible. (PS since I shot .38's I am going to clean the chambers well in about 10 min.)

2) I paid $1050 for the revolver brand new. Was that a good price?

3) Is anyone familiar with the Winchester .357 magnum 110 grain JHP ammo as far as recoil and self-defense effectiveness?

Thanks any help is appreciated.

[Groo01]

Groo here
Try Pachmayer Decelerator grips.
The smaller the better but not the round but type as they are thicker.
Where does it hurt/shock you?
Good score,
The 110gr load is good.
Is that the ported model, [big hole in front of front sight]?
If so the port works better with the hotter loads.

[S&WGuns]

Hi Groo01: Thanks for the reply. It hurt to the right of my thumb, on the inside of my hand, toward the middle of my hand. The higher I had my grip the more it hurt. YES it is ported in front of the front sight.

Two Questions please:

1) Why is smaller better for the grip?

2) I just spent 30 min. brushing out the cylinders with first Hoppe's Bore Cleaner and then CLP using a .38, then .357, and then a .40 brass brushes. I can still see a ring at the front of each chamber but I do not see any carbon. Are the cylinders clean enough? I assume that once one shoots .38 out of a .357 while the carbon is removed, there will be a ring mark from the shorter round.

Originally Posted by Groo01

Groo here
Try Pachmayer Decelerator grips.
The smaller the better but not the round but type as they are thicker.
Where does it hurt/shock you?
Good score,
The 110gr load is good.
Is that the ported model, [big hole in front of front sight]?
If so the port works better with the hotter loads.

[Groo01]

Groo here
The "ring" is a "burn mark" common. Can be removed by
JB's bore cleaner. but if the 357 cases don't stick when fired no problem.
You said you had small hands.
Trigger reach will be longer with thicker grips.
Ps. There is a step[ring] in chamber that id the difference between
the chamber [larger] and the throat [smaller].
This fits a 357 round- the smaller for the bullet . the larger for the case,

[S&WGuns]

Thanks for the additional info I deeply appreciate it. One question please, I am not sure what you meant by
"Ps. There is a step[ring] in chamber that id the difference between the chamber [larger] and the throat [smaller].
This fits a 357 round- the smaller for the bullet . the larger for the case."

Originally Posted by Groo01

Groo here
The "ring" is a "burn mark" common. Can be removed by
JB's bore cleaner. but if the 357 cases don't stick when fired no problem.
You said you had small hands.
Trigger reach will be longer with thicker grips.
Ps. There is a step[ring] in chamber that id the difference between
the chamber [larger] and the throat [smaller].
This fits a 357 round- the smaller for the bullet . the larger for the case,

[Groo01]

Groo here
The bullet is smaller around then the case it fits in.
The chamber is cut to fit the case, the throat is cut
smaller to fit the bullet.
The step is the differences between the two.

[Kernel Crittenden]

The "ring" you are seeing is normal. You'll never be able to clean it away because it is machined into the cylinder wall. As Groo said it is called the "throat". Check out this jpg:

[Jaymo]

What he means is, look at your cylinder from the front and from the rear.
Notice the difference in the diameters of the holes as viewed from the front vs from the rear.
The holes are larger at the rear (where you load the cartridges into the cylinder) and smaller at the front.
The larger diameter of the chambers (at the rear) is the actual chamber.
This is where the cartridges go.
The smaller diameter of the chambers (at the front) is the chamber throat.
The holes are larger at the rear, because the cartridge case is larger in diameter than the bullet (projectile).
The holes at the front of the cylinder (chamber throat) are smaller than the diameter of the cartridge case.
This is because the bullet travels through the chamber throat on it's way to the barrel.
The chamber throats are smaller because they are sized to the nominal diameter of the bullets used in whatever cartridge/cartridges the gun is designed to use.
This way, the chamber throat can help ensure that the bullet is aligned with the barrel bore and enters the barrel straight/squarely, not at an angle.
This helps accuracy.

It may be possible that the ring you see in the chamber is actually the point where the diameter of the chamber steps down/reduces from the larger, chamber bore to the smaller, chamber throat bore (as opposed to a ring of powder fouling).

I think this is what Groo is saying.

I just took the longer, technical way around.

ETA: Darn you, Kernel Crittenden and your faster typing/pic posting skills.

[Hapworth]

Best recoil absorbing grip I've used on a K round butt is a rubber Hogue round-to-square conversion grip.

[S&WGuns]

Good Morning Kernel Crittenden: Thank you ever so much for the diagram it makes everything crystal clear. The picture is just what I needed. Thanks again.

Originally Posted by Kernel Crittenden

The "ring" you are seeing is normal. You'll never be able to clean it away because it is machined into the cylinder wall. As Groo said it is called the "throat". Check out this jpg:

[S&WGuns]

The detailed response is just what I needed Jaymo. I like your attention to detail. It is very clear now. Yes I am seeing the stepdown ring. All the carbon is gone. My gun is clean.

Originally Posted by Jaymo

What he means is, look at your cylinder from the front and from the rear.
Notice the difference in the diameters of the holes as viewed from the front vs from the rear.
The holes are larger at the rear (where you load the cartridges into the cylinder) and smaller at the front.
The larger diameter of the chambers (at the rear) is the actual chamber.
This is where the cartridges go.
The smaller diameter of the chambers (at the front) is the chamber throat.
The holes are larger at the rear, because the cartridge case is larger in diameter than the bullet (projectile).
The holes at the front of the cylinder (chamber throat) are smaller than the diameter of the cartridge case.
This is because the bullet travels through the chamber throat on it's way to the barrel.
The chamber throats are smaller because they are sized to the nominal diameter of the bullets used in whatever cartridge/cartridges the gun is designed to use.
This way, the chamber throat can help ensure that the bullet is aligned with the barrel bore and enters the barrel straight/squarely, not at an angle.
This helps accuracy.

It may be possible that the ring you see in the chamber is actually the point where the diameter of the chamber steps down/reduces from the larger, chamber bore to the smaller, chamber throat bore (as opposed to a ring of powder fouling).

I think this is what Groo is saying.

I just took the longer, technical way around.

ETA: Darn you, Kernel Crittenden and your faster typing/pic posting skills.

[THE PILGRIM]

The grip that fits your hand the best is the one that will absorb the recoil in an even manner.
I prefer the full size Pach for 44s.
357 recoil I don't mind that much, have used various Pach and other brands. Most all the rubber grips will feel better all the time than wood grips.

[Jaymo]

My favorite grip for extended shooting of any K frame or larger revolver is the Pachmayr Gripper.
My favorite grips for I frame to Colt D frame and Charter Bulldog sized guns are the Pachmayr Compac and Compac Professional.
Hogues with finger grooves don't fit my hands well.
I'm tempted to try some wood Hogues without finger grooves on my 586.

[Kernel Crittenden]

Originally Posted by S&WGuns

...the diagram it makes everything crystal clear....

Many years ago, before the internet, it was ME sitting at the table trying to clean that dang "carbon ring" from my chamber wall. There's a saying we "learn from our mistakes", it's true, and boy have I learned a lot.

[Biggfoot44]

As to the grips , the most important is for them to fit YOUR hand , so that the recoil forces are spread as evenly as possable , over as much area as possable. ( Some of the ones praised above are opposite for me , and vice versa , all highly personal ).

The old school W-W 110jhp .357 , is typical of the breed. Rapid expansion , moderate penetration , about 75% recoil of full powered .357 , not much more recoil tha .38spl +P 158gr .

But back at the recoil issue. 130gr std pressure .38spl , fired in an L Frame , and a ported one no less , has very little recoil impulse in the abjective , mathamatical , laws of physics sense. Ill fitting grips might allow some stisting in the hand to slow follow up shots , but it shouldn't cause any noticable discomfort. Is there Carpal Tunnel , severe Arthritus , or some other medical issue ?

[one eye joe]

MY HANDS ARE NOT LARGE. I FAVOR PACHMAYR GRIPS. HERE IS A LINK. PICK SOMETHING OUT WITH A COVERED BACK STRAP--NOT THE "COMPAC PROFESSIONAL" MODEL, WHICH IS SMALL BUT DOES NOT CUSHION THE AREA WHERE YOU NEED IT. Pachmayr&reg Pachmayr your primary source for quality handgun grips and recoil pads
BELOW ARE MY 686s WEARING COMPAC AND PRESENTATION MODELS. I WOULD STAY AWAY FROM FINGER GROOVES. THEY USUALLY DON'T FIT SMALL HANDS VERY WELL…..

[SJshooter]

The best grip to absorb recoil on this gun are the Hogue grips for the S&W 500! Little known, but the 500 was built with a K/L-frame grip. These fit just like the standard L-frame Hogues, but have a huge thick rubber section over the backstrap. Makes shooting .357 seem like .38.

http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/w...layErrorView_N

[Big L.E.E.]

When I bought a 3" 629, I tried a Pachmayr Decelerator, but the fit was loose. So I tried a Pachmayr Diamond Pro grip, which provided a solid fit. It has a covered backstrap, and made the 3" more comfortable to shoot that a 6" 629 with hogue grips and an exposed backstrap.

[Kernel Crittenden]

The solution is the Model 500 Impact Absorbing Hogue Square Butt Conversion Grips SJshooter linked to above. Problem solved.