New to forum, "Hi" and a question about the lock

[Dogguy]

I've actually been reading this forum for about a year. I'm really a Glock guy but I also have a great affection for the J-frame Smiths, especially the Centennial models. Within the past couple of months I've purchased 442 and 642 Airweights to supplement my 640--the first edition, from 1990.

So, first off, "Hi, folks. Thanks for all the good information I've received."

Now the question. I shot the new 642 for the first time this weekend. I ran about 75 rounds through it, UMC 130 gr FMJ, some old Winchester 158 gr SWC +P and a few Speer 125 gr GDHP +P. Although the trigger pull was extremely heavy, the gun performed beautifully and all groups were tight from under 5 yards out to about 15-20 yards. Yeah, it kicks like a mule with the +P 158 gr slugs but it still hits where you point it.

At home later, I cleaned the gun with Hoppe's, CLP and flushed it out with Gun Scrubber. Once the innards were dry, the trigger pull was excessively heavy and there was a definite squeak every time I pulled the trigger. I had to oil the inside heavily to stop the squeaking and smooth out the trigger somewhat. Today, I spent a lot of time dry firing it and got a little tired of the oil seeping out so I gave it another flush with Gun Scrubber. The squeak and hard trigger pull came back. I had to oil it heavily again.

Then the cylinder stopped rotating.

It would rotate one chamber and stop. Open the cylinder, re-close it, rotate one chamber and stop.

So, I got a wee bit PO'd since the gun is new and already having a problem pop up. I sent an email to S&W, asking for authorization to return the gun for warranty service. No reply yet...but while waiting, I decided to look at the gun again. I had not touched the internal lock since I bought it. I thought, why not see how it works?

So I tried locking and unlocking it several times and now the cylinder has started rotating again.

I've pretty much dismissed the complaints about the internal locks. Now I'm concerned. I'm also not sure if I should return the gun to Smith & Wesson to be checked (since it's now working) or simply find a gunsmith who will remove the whole lock mechanism.

I'm asking for comments from those who are familiar with how the lock mechanism functions. Does this sound like a lock problem or something else altogether?

Thanks for your patience. I know it's a long post.

[batmann]

Doesn't sound lock related to me. Sounds like gunscrubber may be the culprit. That stuff dries out metal and I quit using it.

[Gun 4 Fun]

Welcome to the forum!

I don't think it's lock related either, but Smith will pay shipping, so why not have them check it out?
S&W's are designed to be run with very little lubrication, which is contrary to what many of us think should happen. Go with it. It is the right thing to do, and overly lubing will cause dust and lint to collect and gum up the whole insides, possibly at a really bad moment.

I have heard that some of the new guns have a lot of milling dust left on the insides, but can't speak from firsthand knowledge. If that is true, and you know how to properly remove the sideplate, do it, and clean it out properly.

[500 Magnum Nut]

The first thing I always do to a new one is open the hood and oil the insides with breakfree. The new ones are shipped bone dry.
You might find some of this interesting. I dont think it's you lock either, maybe your hand spring is falling off.
FAQ's

[Dogguy]

Thanks. But...

...The gun was sopping with oil from the box--not shipped bone dry at all.

...The gun, when clear of oil, had a trigger pull beyond heavy--it was downright awful and the gun was squeaking like a bearing going bad.

I'm not sure the problem is lock-connected either but engaging and disengaging the lock has caused the cylinder to start rotating again.

[Cruiser RN]

I can tell you what happened to me @ my Beloved non il 640 357 mag died after catestrophic failure.I got the replacement new 640 from my FFL and it felt like grit was in the triggering mechanism.When we popped of the side plate there was metal shavings thruout the interior surface of this firearm.It was a nightmare to clean it all out.Also I got away from gunscrubber cause it dries out the metal.I also gave up using oil after discovering Militec 1 which is a dry lube that binds with the metal and give fantastic lubrication. If you go to thier website MILITEC-1 - The ONLY all-purpose synthetic metal conditioner and gun oil and request a free sample they will send it to you so you can decide for yourself for FREE.Just use it sparingly on your metal parts and you will get great lubrication without all the leaking......God Bless......Mike BTW send it back to smith to rull out a IL failure situation then ignore the damn thing......Mike

[Dogguy]

You might be onto something, Cruiser RN. I'm wondering if there wasn't/isn't some milling crud inside the works and fiddling with the lock mechanism might have loosened it up or moved it around. Anyway, tonight I'll mess around with the gun again. I may hold off on sending it to S&W until I can shoot it some more.

I've used Militec-1. I've used most everything at one time or another. It's a good lube. The only fault I've found with it is that what's left in the bottle gets a sour, rancid smell after a couple of years on the shelf. But it does work well.

[HEADKNOCKER]

The " Sqeak" is probobly the rebound spring rubbing inside the rebound slide..
Useing "Gunscubber" on the newer smiths is asking for trouble IMO, as it disolves the spray on finishes.
There's also a few "Plastic" parts in the newer ones, the mainspring seat comes to mind, That the gunscrubber may be softening..
I'd open it up if it were mine & would clean the inerds, There may be a bur or metal shaving causeing the trouble but as 500MN said it sounds like the hand spring is the curprit, It may have broken??
Polishing the outside of the rebound spring, They have blue paint on them factory nowdays, will smooth up the rebound plus some CLP will make the sqeak disapear..
Good Luck!!
Gary/Hk