I received my 610 (4") that I have waited for since September on Tuesday. I took it to the range last night. It shoots a real nice group; except it's about 4" low. I have the rear sight as far as it will go - it's still low.

I ran about 150 rounds through with no problems. My wife bought me the CT laser grips, so that is nice also.

When I was cleaning up, the ejector rod unscrewed enough to jam up the opening of the cylinder.

I called S&W and they gave me instructions for how to tighten - but I am no gunsmith so I asked for the mailing label to return to them to fix.

I'll also ask about the low sight and perhaps they can smooth the trigger action - it's a bit rough.

I do really like the gun, it is what I expected. The moon clips are not as stout as the 45ACP moon clips, so I'll be sure to have plenty.

It's sure nice, but not up to the standards that I really hoped for from a new S&W.

__________________
Doug "N Frame Addict"
CO

I love mine!

__________________
Rolan Kraps
Gainesville, Ga

What bullet weight were you shooting?
Handloads or factory ammo?

Some heavier bullets may raise the POI.

__________________
You're shy a few manners.

180 and 165.

10 yds and 12 yds

Shooting low.

__________________
Doug "N Frame Addict"
CO

If you want it to shoot higher, adjust the rear sight higher.

Probably just the forward end of the ejector rod end needs to be turned and tightened.........it's not rocket science, a five second job.

Mess with it a little, you sure won't hurt anything.

I haven't shot my 610 all that much, but it is very accurate with CCI Blazer 10mm stuff, not as accurate with CCI Blazer .40 S&W.

__________________
Tom

OK, I am stupid.

In my mind I reasoned that to make the front end go up, you would adjust the rear sight down.

I have never had to mess with the sights on my other revolvers.

__________________
Doug "N Frame Addict"
CO

Nice revolver Rolan!

So is is it the opinion of the experts here that I should just tighten the ejector rod myself and be done with it?

Of course, now that I understand that I was turning the rear sight the wrong direction, I'll fix that error.

What are the odds that the S&W service would do any smoothing on the trigger for free?

__________________
Doug "N Frame Addict"
CO

If I'm thinking correctly, to tighten the ejector rod you will have to turn counter-clockwise. At least that's the why I have always tightened them. Easy fix though as posted previously.

Yep, I did realize that it was counter to tighten - lefty tighty.

__________________
Doug "N Frame Addict"
CO

OK, I have decided to fix this myself. No need to send it back.

__________________
Doug "N Frame Addict"
CO

No no, you're not stupid, just apprehensive about tinkering with your new revolver which I totally understand......but go ahead, a lot of the small stuff, after you figure out how, is a piece of cake.

It sure beats sending it off and being without it for the better part of a month. Also the chance of it getting lost in the mail.

DJINCO...May I ask where you were able to find a model 610? I'm thinking seriously about one. I find them quite rare.

spricks

Easiest way that I've found to snug up the ejector is by folding over an old worn out leather belt over the knurling, grabbing it with a pair of pliers, and holding the cylinder somewhat firmly in the left hand while applying torque to the rod with the pliers. BTW, I worked my way up to getting it tight enough by shooting the gun to see if it worked loose. By using the hand holding the cylinder as a torque limiter and slowly increasing the sqeeze each time, I hit a point where I got it tight enough to stay put. Basically, my hand holding the cylinder was used as a torque limiting slip clutch. Point is, don't pile on the torque, those threads are a very fine pitch and they can be stripped.

The only issue that I had with my 610 was that the headspace ledge for the 10mm case was shaving jacketing when I shot with 40 caliber ammo. This then caused some pretty severe leading in the barrel just past the forcing cone. BTW, I always start by cleaning my barrels by patching them with lead away patches. If you're shooting 40 caliber in your 610, I would suggest that you follow this same procedure because you'll feel any buildup of leading as soon as you run the first patch down the barrel. If you do find you have a leading issue, drop the fired 10mm casing that came with your 610 into each chamber in the cylinder, it will show very quickly if you have some shaved jacket material lodged in the chambers because the casing won't seat fully into the chamber. BTW, picking those jacket fragment out of the chambers isn't easy, they stick very tightly.

Since the 40 caliber is less than 1/2 the cost of 10mm, I use mine mainly as a 40 caliber revolver. I solved the shaved jacket issue by hand stoning that ledge to shape it a bit like a very tiny forcing cone. Since it took about 30 hours, I hesitate to suggest that anyone else take this approach. If you find you have the same problem, I would suggest that you contact S&W and ask if they can either break the sharp corner or remove that headspace ledge completely. When the 610 was first produced, it would not headspace the 10mm cartridge and I think it's a better way to build this particular model because I suspect that most will be used as 40 caliber workhorses with use of the 10mm limited to hunting or SD.

spricks, I have been waiting for the 4" to come into stock for about 6 months. I was on the wait-list at Bud's in KY. My wife even called S&W in October and they told her that they make a run when they have enough orders.

Scooter123, I haven't had any issue with the shaving - everything went very well with the first 150rounds or so. I have bought some supplies to load up some 10mm, which includes some 180gr Laser-cast bullets. We'll see how that works.

__________________
Doug "N Frame Addict"
CO

Make sure to put some fired cases in the cylinder before tightening the ejector rod. Otherwise you risk damage to the star wheel. A small drop of BLUE Loctite on the threads will make this problem go away for ever. It's a simple fix.

M610 is one of my 2 favorite revolvers....a spring kit, a little stoning, a set of LPA fiber optic sights, and it is very accurate with either 10mm or 40.

I've gathered a smattering of both the fiber and the metal moon clips; each has their advantage.

Put a couple thousand rounds through it and you'll love it even more.

__________________
Dum vivimus Vivamas

You have yourself a nice gun there! I have had one since October '08. Put a lot of rounds throught it, about 75% of them .40's. Good for practice. The 10mm has a lot of potential. The stuff you buy off of the shelf is anemic. If you don't reload and want to try what the full load feels like, buy some Buffalo Bore 180 gr. hollow-points. Like shooting a .41 mag.! Enjoy that gun....

I own a 4" 610 no dash and I love it; however, the newest 4" version is quite a shooter and has the front of the cylinder turned as the older Colt SAA revolvers did. A local dealer has one he would LOVE to unload! He has it 'stickered' at $699. Double Tap offers about the best selection of full house 10mm loads and the 610 easily eats any of them.

Devildog66, did you have the no dash rebarelled? Those were made with 5" & 6 1/2" barrels. They are excellent wheelguns.



Bruce

He probably just had a typo.

I sure would love to have a 3" 610-2 Lew Horten. I would settle for a rough one that's been beat up in a glove box or under the seat just to have as a under the seat or glove box gun.


Love the HiViz front sight 0n my 610-3 with 6.5" barrel.

__________________
Cranky Old Retired USN Guy

No, just really bad at math especially when typing before drinking enough coffee. I don't have that many guns that I can claim confusion between models!

I do really like that new 4" version since SW has made some of the same revisions to it that they made to the 625, hmmm...

My laptop often has a mind of its own.

What changes did they make?

__________________
Cranky Old Retired USN Guy

Aside from the 4" barrel and the changes common to all modern SW revolvers; it looks as though they shortened the cylinder and beveled the leading edge similar to the older Colt SAA cylinders. I have heard that the shorter cylinder makes for less torque over; the same changes were put on the 625 JM Model. Personally, I like the look of the new one better with those features.

The 6.5" above has the rounded edges, but will have to get it out and put it side by side with the 610 5" below. It is a favorite of mine.

__________________
Cranky Old Retired USN Guy