Hello out there

I am considering buying a 4 inch .357 to replace my 686 Security Special with 3" tube.
Only in the S&W catalogue ther is a black and white image of the 620, a 7 shot L-frame with the barrel configuration similar to the famous 19/66 Combat Magnum.

Perhaps I did not investigate as deep as I should have to - but I could not find any test report or coloured image of a 620.
What is your experience with this gun, could it match the "standards" of the famous predecessor.
Any information is welcome, thanks a lot in advance !
Best regards from Germany

Wisent

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I have a model 620 and believe that it's the most accurate 357 Magnum that S&W has ever made. However, in order to use the level of accuracy that the 620 offers, most of us need to use some type of optical sight because the sight radius on any 4 inch revolver is somewhat short.

The accuracy of the 620 is a direct result of it's most controversial feature. That is that it uses a 2 piece barrel assembly consisting of a barrel tube under tension suspended within an exterior barrel shroud. This has triggered nearly as much animosity among some as the Internal Lock, they usually state it's been done to cut costs. Personally, having spent nearly 30 years in manufacturing as a Design Engineer, I rather doubt that S&W has saved a nickle on this method of producing a handgun barrel. In addition, in an Engineering Dynamics model, it's a superior method of attaching a barrel to the frame of a revolver in terms of stiffness.

However, there have been a few failures of the cap that is formed at the end the barrel tube that applies pressure to the surrounding barrel shroud. In addition, unlike the Dan Wesson revolver, which uses a nut at the end of the barrel shroud threaded onto the barrel tube, this cap and tube type of mounting the barrel is NOT user serviceable, or serviceable by a gunsmith. S&W uses a special EDM machined insert that engages the rifling in the barrel in order to tighten the barrel in the frame and will NOT release this tool to gunsmiths or users. Because of this, in the rare instance of the barrel shooting loose due to an assembly error at S&W, the gun will have to be returned to S&W for servicing. In addition, forming a cap on the end of the barrel tube does create a stress riser in that area which is why this type of barrel has always failed at the cap. However, a standard 1 piece barrel has a similar stress riser at the junction between the threaded extension that fits into the frame that results in what I expect is a very similar rate of failure. Basically, on the 620 when there is a metalurgical flaw in this area, the cap will snap off, on the 686 with a similar flaw, the entire barrel snaps off at the frame. IMO, in terms of the potential rate of failure, it's probably a tossup, the only real difference is in the mode of failure.

As a US resident, a trip back to the factory for service really isn't a concern for me. However, as you are in Germany, you may want to consider the 4 inch 686 as an alternative simply because you can have a barrel on the 686 replaced locally as opposed to dealing with an international shipment of a handgun for repair.

The only downside to the 4 inch 686 is the slight loss in accuracy compared to the 620, the somewhat ugly full lug barrel profile, and the slightly more muzzle heavy balance of the 4 inch 686. In your case the tradeoff may be worth the tradeoffs. BTW, IMO it's a real shame that S&W didn't put the 686 Mountain Gun into the standard catalog, it's a half lug profile and a real beauty to my eyes. It's also rare enough I've only seen pics of it.

The real question is what you intend to use your 357 Magnum for. If your going to use it for precision target matches against the Korth users, IMO the only way to go is with the 620. With a good Reflex or Red Sot scope mounted to it, the 620 can hold it's own in a precision match setting against almost any revolver that doesn't offer an adjustable B/C gap like the Dan Wesson. If your using it in Action Matches, or simply for defense, you'll probably want to get the 4 inch 686 just because you can have a barrel issue fixed locally. While loose, or broken barrels are actually quite rare, in your case it's something to think about.

As for the accuracy of the 620, the following link will provide one answer, it's a bit stunning. I've also found that my 620 seems to be VERY insensitive to 38 spl. ammo, which is mainly what I shoot in mine due to the cost of 357 Magnum ammunition. Basically, it will group under an inch at 25 yards with any 38 spl. I feed it on the days when I am shooting well.

Smith & Wesson Models 619 and 620 .357 Magnum Revolvers

Don't get rid of a good gun on the hopes the next one will be a good one too. Maybe....maybe not.

S&W supposedly has the two piece barrel seperation problem solved. Do a Forum search and you'll come up with all kinds of information. Love or hate the two piecers it only makes sense: the more parts there are in the machine to go wrong the more there is that can go wrong.

Keep your 3" 686 and stay happy.

Wisent, I had a 4" Model 620 for a few months and ended up selling it. I replaced it with a 4" Model 686 (no-dash) and am very happy with the gun.
In my experience, the 620 is one of those guns that are for carrying frequently but shooting infrequently. It is light because of it's special construction and lack of a full underlug. But the .357 is a powerful cartridge and I found that the lightweight 620 beat the **** out of the web of my hand no matter which grips I used. The extra weight of the 686 underlug helps mediate the powerful recoil impulse of the .357 cartridge.
If you do buy a Model 620, you'd be best served by the Hogue grips it comes with. Don't hold the grip high. Settle your hand into the finger grooves and withdraw the web of your thumb to protect it from getting a blister.

I don't have an S&W Model 620 but I DO have an S&W Model 520 (the black version of the same gun with a titanium cylinder):



I have shot it just a few hundred rounds. However, so far it has shot every thing I have put in it with excellent results. Mine has a rather heavy trigger (both single and double action) and I will shortly replace the main spring and rebound spring with a pair of Jerry Miculek springs.

I normally IMMEDIATELY replace the grips on all revolvers with a set of Pachmayr grips. However, I am beginning to really like the issue grips shown here. They are rather full and give me decent hand support in spite of the fact that they do not cover the back strap (I have rather large hands).

I have a Simmons Red Dot on mine and that makes a FINE combination.

FWIW
Dale53

The actual difference in weight between the 4 inch 686 and the 620 is 1/10 ounce per S&W's statistics. So, there is not a lot of difference between the two in recoil. However, the mass of the barrel on the 686 does provide a bit more weight forward helping slightly with muzzle flip. It's not a huge difference but it's there. In my opinion the slight reduction in muzzle flip isn't worth the sacrifice in balance but that's just an opinion.

As for the gun beating you up when used with 357 Magnums, either the 686 or the 620 will do that, especially with the rather small Hogue monogrip that these guns are sold with today. Fortunately, the solution is readily available on S&W's web site in the form of the monogrip for the 500 Magnum. It fits the round butt grip frame on the current L frames perfectly and makes shooting Magnums an energizing experience instead of an ordeal.

I had a M619 which is the fixed sight model of the M620 and it was a GREAT revolver. It handled well, was very accurate, has a half underlug barrel and holds 7 rounds instead of 6. I should have kept that revolver but hindsight is always 20-20.

Here are a few pictures of my M619:





This picture is with Ahrends Grips:

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SWCA #3437

Hello everybody,

thank you so much for your information and your efforts especially in posting pictures.
As far as recoil is concerned, I am well aware about the power of the .357. When working as a game keeper during my semester breaks I carried a S&W 65 - 2 with three inch barrel and - well lt's say, it gave mewhat I deserved.....

As you perhaps know, a hunter in Germany is allowed to have only 2 handguns. Since my 686 with the rather short tube is extremely accurate up to a distance of 20 yards ( which is enough by far for a revolver used for self defense and coup de grace where rifles cannot be used, i.e. roadkills , thick brush and the like), I have to think thoroughly if I take the effort to sell one of my guns, walk to the police to let the sale be registered, make a motion to buy a second handgun, and at last - after the buy - visit the police another time to have the new gun enlisted in my documents.

So, keep up the good work and keep on fighting for the second amandment.

Best respects from Germany

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Honor as t h e way of life

Just some reassurances:

1. The two-part barrels are fine - and dependable. Just no over-SAAMI specification ammo, as in any S&W, and you'll have an heirloom.

2. The L-frame frame, cylinder, and grip are identical to any 686+. The two ounce difference is in the barrel/lug. It points better than the front heavy 4" 686's - very similar to the 4" 66 - even the same weight (Recall that the larger 7-shot cylinder weighs the same as the smaller K-frame's 6-holer!).

As you know, the 619 replaced the 4" 65, while the 620 replaced the 4" 66. The 619 came with the same Uncle Mike's square conversion combats that the 10, 64, & 67 come with (See photo above.). The 620 has the Hogue's. The UM's cover the backstrap, better distributing the recoil - and they are still available - as are the X-frame Hogue's, which pad the backstrap with softer material - made for the .460/.500 Magnums. The X-frame Hogues fit all - K, L, N, & X-frames! Seriously, if you shoot .357 Magnums and need recoil help, they are great.

I went to my local S&W dealer for a 620 just over two years back... he was out of stock! I perused his cases - and found the new 4" 627 Pro - I had the extra $110 it would cost from some gun sales - it came home with me. It has the two piece barrel. What a shooter!! It quickly got new grips - Ahrends wood. For my shooting - mostly my mild 125gr JHP at ~920 fps homebrews - they are fine. Enjoy your new S&W!

Stainz

Wisent,

I was curious what you ever decided to do in reference to the 619/620. I am also a hunter here in Germany and have recently purchased a 619 at a very good price if you are still thinking about one. I am extremely happy with it, and think you would be too. I've never had to deal with a wounded boar, but think this is a good choice for size weight and caliber. I notice most of the old timers don't carry semi-auto's (I already own a SIG P228) so I thought this would be more appropriate. The dealer I went thru shipped it to me in one day (to my house) once I sent him a scanned copy of my WBK!

Attached Images

619 a.jpg (58.0 KB, 96 views)

Thank you so much for posting, hope you did well recieve my PM

Best regards

Wisent

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Honor as t h e way of life

Got it, sent one in return!