I have a 357 Magnum, Mod 586. When I first got it, I had no problem. Now after about 18 or so rounds, the cylinder will not pivot back into the frame unless I clean "under" the star shaped cartridge ejector piece. Anyone know of this problem, why it happened, and what I need to do?
Thanks

It is not unusual to have some unburned powder or debris left in the case after firing. The amount depends on the amount and type of powder. Pointing the muzzle straight up when extracting cases keeps the debris in the cases. Holding it horizontal would allow some of the debris to be left on the cylinder and under the extractor. You probably have a tight fitting cylinder that is more sensitive to a slight bit of powder under the extractor. If cleaning solves the issue, then the gun is good and all you have to do is keep stuff from under the extractor.

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

Thanks. I thought the debris was getting under the piece because of a damaged piece or something (since it never used to happen regardless of how many rounds I would fire.
Thanks again.

Also, make sure you're extractor rod is tightened down. If they back out a little they will make it bind or not close. And they will come loose.

Munster

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GO NAVY!

My vote is the ejector rod needs to be tightened. Had it happen on a 686 after a tear down cleaning. Have seen the mod. 66 do this from lack of maintance. Just an opinion

Are you using handloads? What powder and bullet? After cleaning make sure everything in that cylinder is dry, may take a few days of continued wiping but it's worth the time. Just a drop of lube on the outside and inside of the yoke tube is all you need.......ok, half a drop each! (Whatever that means???)

Thanks for the fast replies. The rod is tight and the star piece is fitting in flush. I don't reload, but I do use cheap ammo at the range. But its the same cheap ammo I've always used, so I was baffled at why I could fire 200 rounds before and now just 18 rounds before I have to clean under the ejector piece. With all of the replies and more inspection, I have noticed that one of the two small guide posts (I don't know what to call them) is shorter than the other and may allow debris in. The posts are on the cylinder itself and are 180 degrees from each other and fit into the ejector plate when the plate comes flush to the cylinder. The long one fills the guide hole on the plate and the short one does not. I'm guessing now.

I will have to pay attention to how I hold the pistol every time I eject the cases. What you said makes sense if I am holding it at an angle and the cases slide past the plate and dump debris. Makes sense. thanks - I would have never thought of that.

Cheap ammo? Is it by chance imported stuff made in Russia or a neighboring region?

Some of that stuff is notorious for using powder that burns filthy with lots of residue... could be the manufacturing lot of stuff you're firing is particularly dirty. Change ammo and see what happens.

Did or does the face of the cylinder or forcing cone show signs of heavy residue? It does not take a lot of build up to reduce the clearance between that barrel/cylinder gap and make it difficult to fully close the cylinder.

Gary,

Nightowl starts to address this, but how you hold the gun when ejecting brass makes all the difference in the World. Most inexperienced shooters will hold the gun either muzzle down or basically horizontal and pick the brass out of the cylinder. This way, especially muzzle down, unburned powder will fall out of the case and into the gun while the extractor is back, and some becomes trapped under the extractor.

The right way is to hold the gun muzzle straight up and either eject into your hand or onto the ground/bench. This way unburned powder in the cases stays there and you will have many fewer problems which you describe. Just one of the tricks quickly learned when engaged in any of the speed shooting type of contests.

When the gun starts getting sticky check three things. First, turn the cylinder while swung out. If it spins freely then fouling between the cylinder bore and yoke arbor aren't the problem. Second, try turning the extractor rod to make sure it is tight. Third, brush under the extractor. A;most every time the brushing will fix the problem.

There are two things you should always have when shooting a revolver. A cleaning rod and Bronze brush one size over-size for your revolver. A few passes of a new, dry, brush through the bore and the charge holes every 3-4 cylinders full will eliminate almost all leading before it develops. The second is a toothbrush to brush under the extractor. These two, and a screwdriver to keep the screws tight, will fix nearly every problem you will have while shooting a double-action revolver. You will never know how many years it took to discover these!

Alk8944,
Thanks. I will be the range tomorrow morning and try it. I also bought some Federal ammo so I can compare to the cheap ammo I have been using at the range. Thanks also for the cleaning and maintenance tips. I'll do it.

My 686 is also sensitive to unburned powder getting under the extractor. Just takes a grain. My first symptom is the cylinder is hard to advance when pulling back the hammer. Once I clean under the extractor the problem goes away. I reload and some powders are more prone to leaving behind an unburned grain.

I will have to remember the tip of always keeping the muzzle up when extracting fired rounds.

So far have not had this problem with my 681.

I just got back from the range. Before, I would fire 18 rounds and have to clean under the extractor to get the cylinder to pivot back into the frame.

Today, we used 3 different "levels" of ammo jsut as a test. We fired about 200 rounds total. This time, every time we unloaded it was muzzle up.

Results:
1. $37 a box (50 rounds) ammo (performance) - fired very clean - 50 rounds and no problem.
2. $13 a box (equivalent to 50 rounds, bought in bulk) - fired 100 rounds and no problem (even with a cloud coming out of the muzzle and gun that was nearly black afterwards and still no problem)
3. $17 a box (50 rounds) - burned cleaner and still no problem.

Had to be how we unload the gun. I'm sold - muzzle up.
Thanks for helping with a frustrating problem.

Gary

I took my 19-5, new to me and my first S&W revolver, to the range for the first time today, and I had this problem a couple of times. I was shooting the Win white box, but I know I was not holding the muzzle up to eject all the time.
Thanks for all the info here.

Those are called extractor pins.
They keep the extractor star from turning or flexing when the cylinder is closed.

One of yours is bent or broken.
This is either a factory defect or caused by improper handling of your revolver.
.