Is the 686-4 the best of the 686 series?

Philip Marlowe

Philip Marlowe

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I am interested in getting some opinions on the best 4 inch 686. Below, is some info from the web. From what I have read, many prefer the 686-4, since it has no internal lock, and it is the last of the models without MIM parts. The MIM parts have the "fake" case hardening. Now, I have not experienced any durability problems with MIM parts myself.

Now I know that I don't like the internal lock, and I do like the square butt. Square butt stopped in 1996?, so that means a 686-4, but I think I might prefer the frame mounted firing pin of the 686-5.

686-0 (1980): first model
686-1 (1986): Radius stud package, floating hand
686-M (1987): (this was the "M" recall) changed hammer nose & firing pin bushing.
686-2 (1987): formally incorporate "M" recall changes into regular production
686-3 (1988): spring-loaded yoke-retention system
686-4 (1993): change rear sight, drill & tap frame for a scope mount, new extractor
686-5 (1997): MIM hammer, MIM trigger, frame-mounted firing pin.
686-6 (2001): add internal hammer lock (this is the current production)
686-7 (2002): Performance Center version in .38 Super
 
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the 686-4 was the first version to incorporate cnc machining, if i'm not mistaken. forged internals (no mim) and the absence of the lock make it more desirable to many, and thus, more collectible than most.

a round butt frame gives you the option of round butt grips or square butt grips (round-to-square conversion). square butt only gives you the one option.

sounds to me like you should look for a 686-5, which will also give you the option of an interchangeable front sight post. you can also look for a '+' (7-shot) version if you like.

as to the question of 'best', that is going to be very subjective. i have a 686-6 (a 3 inch '+' model) which is the most accurate 686 i've ever owned (have owned 3 or 4 over the years), so i'll have to say that one is best for me.
 
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IMO any of them up to the point production went cheap and PC will serve you very well. I've had early 80's 686's that were some of the most accurate 357's that I've ever fired, currently I 've got 3, 1 is a 6" dash 4 that I've had since the mid 90's and would NEVER part with. Then 2 late 80's guns one a 4" the other a 3" CS-1, all are far more accurate than I am and all are keepers. I strongly suggest staying away from new production junk with ther 2 piece barrels etc. The 686 is my fav S&W 357 bar none.
 
I have always liked forged parts, it just sounds better. Having no MIM is probably a mental thing. Just about all makers use MIM now.
 
I just bought a 686-8 plus (7 shot) with a 3" barrel. I guess it is the best one for me, since it is the only 686 I have.

It'll just have to do. :)
 
I have a 4" 686 no dash CS-1 and a 4" 686-5 MG. The CS is my favorite of the two, but I do enjoy the MG. As you'd expect, they feel quite different.

I haven't ever really tried to date either one. But I noticed Nframe lists his CS model as a late eighties. I'm just wondering if it has a dash number. I would have thought that mine was made around the same time as his, but I always assumed it was a little earlier due to the no dash. Who can straighten me out on the history of the CS models? I would love to find a 3" CS-1 by the way.
 
Any advantages of the older hammer mounted firing pin over the frame mounted?
 
686SSR

If there is a more accurate 686 out there over the 6868SSR version (although its a six shot) i missed it. Mine is the most accurate 686 i have owned or fired and i have fired many
 
My 686+ dash 5 shoots as well as my dash 3, here's the -5

100_1534-1.jpg
 
Cashdog said:
I have a 4" 686 no dash CS-1 and a 4" 686-5 MG. The CS is my favorite of the two, but I do enjoy the MG. As you'd expect, they feel quite different.

I haven't ever really tried to date either one. But I noticed Nframe lists his CS model as a late eighties. I'm just wondering if it has a dash number. I would have thought that mine was made around the same time as his, but I always assumed it was a little earlier due to the no dash. Who can straighten me out on the history of the CS models? I would love to find a 3" CS-1 by the way.
Click to expand...


I'm no expert on the CS-1 but I've tried to read everything that I can on them, I called S&W on mine and was told it was mfg in Dec. of 1987 and shipped Feb of 1988, they couldn't tell me if it went to the Customs service or if it was commercial overun. Mine is a no-dash with M stamp so it has the firing pin bushing upgrade. It's a solid revolver and one that I'm happy to have, it's the only one that I've ever seen personally. I'd like to have a 4" to go with it someday. From what I've gathered all of the CS-1's were made in the same time frame, but the idential model was supposedly marketed briefly by S&W but not marked CS-1 IIRC.
 
Thanks Nframe. The fact that yours is also a no dash puts my mind at ease. I saw the post about some fake NY-1 64's, and that plus the fact that the years weren't jiving in my head made me start to wonder. I'll have to get mine out later and take a closer look. Can't recall if mine has the IIRC or not.

I've got one of the seven shot MG's too Joe, and you're right it's a nice one.
 
Philip Marlowe said:
Any advantages of the older hammer mounted firing pin over the frame mounted?
Click to expand...

Philip,

This certainly isn't the last word on it, but the spring which keeps the frame-mounted pins in a retracted position absorbs a bit of the force of the hammer. This can cause failures-to-fire if a reduced-power hammer spring is installed to lighten trigger pull. I did this with a 686-6 and prevented the problem by installing a Cylinder & Slide extended firing pin with its pointed tip, and I use Federal primers exclusively, which have a softer cup.

Hope that was reasonably clear.
Andy
 
Do the changes in the OP's post also go for the 586 as well? Thanks

Also, on the no dash 586, is it round or square butt? I was thinking I had rounded grips on mine back in the 80's.
 
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I have a 586, AAA serial number that I bought new as soon as I could get one after their introduction. It has had thousands of .38 special rounds through it and had needed no additional service except cleaning in the approximate 30 years I have owned it. All 586's and 686's are fine guns, strong and well made. My preference would be the one with the new rear sight configuration, firing pin on hammer. I do not think that the frame mounted firing pin is as good as one mounted on the hammer. At least by the complaints of light hits and failure to fire complaints. My brother in law has a new one with the lock and it is really a well made gun and a good shooter. I don't think you can go wrong with any of them.
 
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