J Frame lock removal and flag hole filler

[Edwards]

I just installed my sixth "Plug" from Bullseye Smith, the first one in a J frame model. I had been thinking for sometime about what to use for the small hole at the rear of the frame to fill the hole left when the flag is removed completely.

I finally discovered that a binder clip #50 has the perfect diameter clip to cut and use as the filler. I used a simple super glue to hold it in place so that it can easily be punched out if I need to reinstall the lock assembly for some reason.

Pics:



Unfortunately my cuts produced a sheen that is a little brighter than I had estimated before I got the filler in place, so it's a little reflective. I used a cutoff wheel and Dremel tool for the cuts, the filler is very short, maybe 1/16th of an inch. I shortened it using a grinding motion with the wheel, I should have done that just a bit on the exposed end to dull the finish a bit, but overall I'm happier with it than a hole in the frame.

[Bullseye Smith]

It looks good, hope it stays in place for you.

[Edwards]

Originally Posted by Bullseye Smith

It looks good, hope it stays in place for you.

Me too, that's the next test. Super glue didn't seem ideal, but I couldn't figure out a way to mechanically keep it in place.

[Bullseye Smith]

Originally Posted by Edwards

Me too, that's the next test. Super glue didn't seem ideal, but I couldn't figure out a way to mechanically keep it in place.

Maybe someone will have a Idea, I have pulled my hair trying to figure out a way to do it. To me if it fell into the inside it would lock up the system itself.

[Edwards]

I suppose it could be cut longer so that it doesn't rub on the hammer, but if it came loose, the hammer would keep it from falling into the action. That's just a theory, if the hole in the frame is short enough, it could still works it's way down.

We'll see what happens.

[mc5aw]

Loctite epoxies and threadlockers might be a possibility for something a bit more durable than superglue.

[ronnie gore]

leave the hole open ,great place to put oil into the action.

[GKC]

Originally Posted by Bullseye Smith

Maybe someone will have a Idea, I have pulled my hair trying to figure out a way to do it. To me if it fell into the inside it would lock up the system itself.

Just a thought...but if you had a little bit of a cap, like a mushroom, on the pin for the small hole, it couldn't fall inside...and you could have a spring clip or something to hold it in place from the inside. It would be raised up a bit from the frame, but if it was just a small lip it wouldn't be very noticeable.

Or maybe thread the small hole, and put a little stainless round head screw in it, like the ones that hold the side plates on (except they are flush, of course.)

Of course, looking at my 36, the hole is so close to the edge of the frame that if the screw or whatever was very big at all or the lip was very big, it might stick out over the edge of the frame.

[Edwards]

The issue with tapping the frame is that you, from my research, void the factory warranty. Anything I've done so far can easily be reversible if any factory work needs to be performed.

[GKC]

Originally Posted by Edwards

The issue with tapping the frame is that you, from my research, void the factory warranty. Anything I've done so far can easily be reversible if any factory work needs to be performed.

Well, that's a good point! Don't wanna do that!

[J D Allen]

I'm glade to see someone has figured a way to repair these guns. Its a stupid safety attempt.

[Broadside]

Perhaps you could use some type of Loc-tite specific for press fit applications and also peen it from the inside so that it mushrooms or expands enough for a tighter fit.

Perhaps you might be able to solder it in place. Maybe you could heat it from the outside and apply the solder on the inside or maybe vice versa. The idea would be to get the solder to flow into the gap between your plug and the frame.

[PhilOhio]

What to do to fill the hole? Nothing. I left it alone on my 649, after making my drill rod button for the other hole on a lathe and holding it in place with the existing spring and plunger.

But if you really want to fill it, securely, use your spring clip wire. Cut a piece over-length. Slightly tap it on one end to mushroom it, and round/shape the mushroom with a stone or file, so it looks good on the outside. Then the filler piece cannot possible work itself into the gun, to jam it.

On the inside surface, use a Dremel tool to cut the stub shorter than what is shown in your picture, closer to the bottom of the pocket in the frame. Then you need a second person to hold the gun in place, with the outside (mushroomed end) firmly supported on a piece of steel, vise, something like that. That's your bucking bar. Then you deeply centerpunch the inside of the filler piece, i.e., like setting a rivet.

Now it can go neither in or out, needs no glue or solder, and will not shoot loose. If you want to remove it, it can easily be drifted out from the inside. The frame hole will not have been changed, in case the gun has to go back to S&W for warrantly service.

An even easier solution: Thoroughly clean the hole with alcohol or something. With a wooden toothpick, mix a lot of powdered stainless steel or aluminum with a drop of 5-Minute Epoxy. Fill and level the hole. End of issue. It probably will stay in place also.

I think there are several ready-mixed commercial products which do the same thing...names escape me right now, as I don't use them.

I love the epoxy; use it for everything. My favorite use: When setting up a fixed sight S&W with a custom adjustable rear sight, especially with a new barrel, I epoxy on a front sight blade, cut from a piece of cereal box, and made way too high. I go to the range with my scissors, shoot paper from about thirty feet, with the rear sight set at bottom, and trim until I am centered in the black.

Back home, I measure the front sight and make a real one out of metal, but perhaps 1/32" lower, to allow for load variations at point blank.

Years ago, when I got the crazy idea to try this, I thought my temporary sight would shoot loose. It hasn't happened yet, even with stiff centerfire loads in .45 ACP, .38 Spl, and .45 LC. Just have the barrel clean before epoxying. Lots of harmless solvents will take it off afterward. Usually it has just popped off cleanly for me.

Sorry, a little off subject, but I thought it might interest you fellow S&W tinkerers who like to fill holes, even when it doesn't absolutely have to be done.

[suckersrus]

I like the thread-it idea.

Fill it with an Allen head screw, Loc-tite in place.