S&w 69

[Boostnu]

I have been trying to talk myself into one of these. I currently have a 586 and a 686 and started looking into .44 mags. I started out looking at a 629 and thought the grip felt kind of big to me which lead me to the 69. I wanted to see from the guys that have one how they have held up.

[joe44va]

Both of mine are great, although I've only had the short one for a month. The longer one I've had since they came out and it's like new, actually a bit better than new. Go for it.

[dickydalton]

I love mine.

[bronco45]

Couldn't get my head around an L frame 44 Mag when they came out in 2014 but once I handled one at the LGS I understood the advantage of an L Frame 44 Mag immediately. I still have the 69 I purchased that day in 4.2" and it's my favorite 44 and I own several different 44s. Strong easy to pack and very very accurate. 240grain slug at 1100 will take care of 98 percent of anything you might bump into down here in the lower 48.

[MCorps0311]

I like mine have had it a couple years now.I shoot .44 Spl. 240 gr more than magnum ammo.

[BLUEDOT37]

Originally Posted by Boostnu

...which lead me to the 69. I wanted to see from the guys that have one how they have held up.

It's been nothing but dependable & loads of fun to shoot.

I have no doubt you'll wear-out before it does.

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[Coastie762]

I've had no problems whatsoever with mine, a 2.75" version. It has become my favorite woods walking companion.

[Collo Rosso]

Had the 2.75" 69 (my avatar). Great shooter with lighter loads. I found myself not shooting it very much and traded it off. If I was to get back into 44 caliber, it would be first on the list.

[oink]

I like mine, the short one. I haven't shot it a whole bunch, just because I haven't shot anything a whole bunch lately. I did qualify with it last year with full power loads, without difficulty, but there was blood on the grips afterwards.

[shocker]

Originally Posted by Boostnu

I started out looking at a 629 and thought the grip felt kind of big to me which lead me to the 69. I wanted to see from the guys that have one how they have held up.

It will hold up just fine, but I would say this a handloader's gun for anything above 44 SPC as full power 44 mag gets zesty in a gun weighing under 40 oz. 200-240 gr bullets at 1000-1100 fps (loading manual numbers) are right in the wheelhouse for this gun IMO.

[cowboy4evr]

I kept hoping they would bring out one in the 41 magnum . I don't believe it will happen as there probably just isn't enough interest . I was surprised to see that Charter Arms has blessed us with the Mag Pug in 41 magnum . Haven't heard much about it so far . Regards, Paul

[Shark Bait]

My 2.75 inch 69 is easily my most carried revolver. It is the perfect small package that packs a serious punch. I put smooth VZ grips on mine.

[mtgianni]

I have the 4.2" and really like it. I shoot heavies in it at less than max velocity and I have the factory grip. It pushes but doesn't really punish you. 280 gr woods loads, and 250 gr targets for me.

[Boostnu]

Thanks for the help guys I got to the gun store held the 69 and the 629 again. I ended up walking out with the 629.

[mod34]

I held my first '69 (STOP!) a few weeks ago at my LGS - BigBox place. I really, really liked it...……..but I DIDN'T like the $800+price tag! I could be convinced....but NOT at new gun prices! Maybe a buyer at around $600 or so???

[Boostnu]

Originally Posted by mod34

I held my first '69 (STOP!) a few weeks ago at my LGS - BigBox place. I really, really liked it...……..but I DIDN'T like the $800+price tag! I could be convinced....but NOT at new gun prices! Maybe a buyer at around $600 or so???

About the best price I found on a new one was at Smokey mountain knife works. Buds had decent prices on a few used ones.

[F224]

Having always shot better with the L/K frame guns than the N frames I bought a 4.2" barreled version. I have a very modest load using Barnes 300gr FN bullets at 975fps. It's very controllable and mimics the Garrett Defender ammo that has a great reputation of putting down bears with no issues.

[steelslaver]

I have a 69 and a couple 29s and 629s, All are fine Actually the difference in distance between back strap and trigger isn't much. But, then they have to order me XX large gloves at work.

[Mike_Fontenot]

Originally Posted by Boostnu

Thanks for the help guys I got to the gun store held the 69 and the 629 again. I ended up walking out with the 629.

Good decision, in my opinion. I got the 4" 69 first. I liked it a lot, but it has a problem stemming from my shooting style (I shoot with a VERY relaxed grip, and with relaxed and flexed elbows, which results in a very high muzzle rise ... almost vertical). The problem is that the during the recoil, the cylinder-stop unlocks, and the cylinder is free to rotate. I can see that from firing-pin scratches on the rear of the casing, coming up out of the primer crater, and arcing across the back of the casing. On the first 4 rounds, it doesn't cause any misfire, because the cylinder rotation is small. But when the 2nd to last round is fired, the cylinder rotates enough to re-lock with the last round lined up with the barrel. Then, when I cock the hammer, the first fired casing gets rotated into alignment with the barrel, and I get a "click" when I pull the trigger ... i.e., the last live round gets skipped. I think the only way to solve this problem is by S&W making the cylinder-stop out of titanium, instead of steel ... that would be light enough to prevent the inertial pull-down of the cylinder-stop that occurs with the heavier steel cylinder-stop.

Because of that problem, I bought a 5" 629, and that has been my everyday carry for about a year now. No unlocking problem with that gun at all, probably because it is quite a bit heavier and so the recoil isn't as abrupt as for the Model 69.

[oink]

I haven't experienced that problem with the 69, but then I haven't used 300 grain bullets in it, just 240s. I have experienced that issue in my 6" 629-1. But not in my 3" ported 629-4.

I would have sent a new gun back to Smith if it was counter rotating under recoil. My 629-1 (bought new) didn't display the issue until it had quite a few years on it.

[Mike_Fontenot]

Originally Posted by oink

I would have sent a new gun back to Smith if it was counter rotating under recoil.

I DID send it back. "No trouble found".

I suspect the problem doesn't occur with a firm grip, and I'm probably the only guy who shoots a .44mag with a very relaxed grip and with relaxed and flexed elbows. It sounds impossible that a .44mag can be shot that way, but it works. (And I'm not a big guy ... I'm 77 years old, and I've shrunk down to 5'9" and 130 lbs.) In fact, shooting is much more pleasant with that relaxed grip. I can shoot full-spec .44mag Underwoods for a whole range session, with no bruises or sore hand afterward.

[BLUEDOT37]

The M69 L-frame received all the same Endurance Package upgrades the N-frames get.

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[00Buck2]

The 69 is the only S&W with a lock that I own. I have it in the 2.75” variety. Have put numerous rounds through it over the last two years with zero problem. It has proven to be very accurate with the 240g full house loads but after about 50 of those the 44 special loads shine and are more comfortable yet just, if not more, accurate. I was impressed with the fit, finish and trigger on mine for a new production S&W. No regrets here I think it is the best new production revolver chambered in 44 mag. I picked mine up from grab a you know what for $620 shipped back in the day. I have noticed the price increase over the last two years. I would think a well cared for used one should fo for $600. If I had to pay more than that I would lean towards an N frame pre lock only because of tradition. Even though Accuracy, fit and finish has been spot on with my 69.

[yfdcap]

Outstanding guns. Bought the 4.25 when it first hit the market. Great shooter and very nice to carry in field. Then the short barrel came out. One of my favorite. Only problem is I never really shoot or carry the 4.25 anymore. Have thought about selling it many times. Such a good gun I hate to let it go though.

[dla]

Originally Posted by Mike_Fontenot

Good decision, in my opinion. I got the 4" 69 first. I liked it a lot, but it has a problem stemming from my shooting style (I shoot with a VERY relaxed grip, and with relaxed and flexed elbows, which results in a very high muzzle rise ... almost vertical). The problem is that the during the recoil, the cylinder-stop unlocks, and the cylinder is free to rotate. I can see that from firing-pin scratches on the rear of the casing, coming up out of the primer crater, and arcing across the back of the casing. On the first 4 rounds, it doesn't cause any misfire, because the cylinder rotation is small. But when the 2nd to last round is fired, the cylinder rotates enough to re-lock with the last round lined up with the barrel. Then, when I cock the hammer, the first fired casing gets rotated into alignment with the barrel, and I get a "click" when I pull the trigger ... i.e., the last live round gets skipped. I think the only way to solve this problem is by S&W making the cylinder-stop out of titanium, instead of steel ... that would be light enough to prevent the inertial pull-down of the cylinder-stop that occurs with the heavier steel cylinder-stop.

Because of that problem, I bought a 5" 629, and that has been my everyday carry for about a year now. No unlocking problem with that gun at all, probably because it is quite a bit heavier and so the recoil isn't as abrupt as for the Model 69.

Hammer bounce. Happens with the 329pd as well.
S&W 329pd info - Christian Ed and Hobby info

[Mike_Fontenot]

Originally Posted by dla

Hammer bounce. Happens with the 329pd as well.
S&W 329pd info - Christian Ed and Hobby info

I couldn't tell much from those two photos ... looked like there were some large oil drops, including one beyond the primer pocket. The tracks in between the primer crater and the droplets DID look like the tracks I saw on all my casings out of my 69. But I never saw any secondary primer craters due to the hammer falling forward again.

I don't think hammer bounce is what causes the cylinder-stop unlocking on my 69. I think it's purely inertial pull-down of the cylinder-stop from the sudden very large muzzel-rise (due to the recoil combined with my very relaxed grip and relaxed, flexed elbows).

Also, the abrupt recoil would tend to keep the hammer FORWARD, not pull it rearward.

[yfdcap]

The unlocking cylinder has been going on for many, many, years. There are several things that can contribute to it. I have had a couple early 44's and a 500 that did it. For some it was fixed with a stronger cylinder stop spring. Some needed end shake fixed. Some just seem to do it no matter what. Seems to be a gun by gun issue and not necessarily a model issue. I have many 6.5 model 29's and shot the same loads through them all. Had one that was a 29-3, 6.5 that would unlock no matter what I did. Same with a 500. Two identical guns. One unlocks and one does not.

[Mike_Fontenot]

Originally Posted by yfdcap

The unlocking cylinder has been going on for many, many, years. There are several things that can contribute to it. I have had a couple early 44's and a 500 that did it. For some it was fixed with a stronger cylinder stop spring. Some needed end shake fixed. Some just seem to do it no matter what. Seems to be a gun by gun issue and not necessarily a model issue. I have many 6.5 model 29's and shot the same loads through them all. Had one that was a 29-3, 6.5 that would unlock no matter what I did. Same with a 500. Two identical guns. One unlocks and one does not.

That's depressing. I sure wish S&W would offer a titanium cylinder-stop. I think that would eliminate most if not all of the occurrences.

[dla]

Originally Posted by Mike_Fontenot

I couldn't tell much from those two photos ... looked like there were some large oil drops, including one beyond the primer pocket. The tracks in between the primer crater and the droplets DID look like the tracks I saw on all my casings out of my 69. But I never saw any secondary primer craters due to the hammer falling forward again.

I don't think hammer bounce is what causes the cylinder-stop unlocking on my 69. I think it's purely inertial pull-down of the cylinder-stop from the sudden very large muzzel-rise (due to the recoil combined with my very relaxed grip and relaxed, flexed elbows).

Also, the abrupt recoil would tend to keep the hammer FORWARD, not pull it rearward.

Wrong.
What you are seeing is hammer bounce - hardly a new phenomenon.
When the hammer bounces back it unlocks the cylinder.
Use your Google.