Thoughts on Smith Revolver Triggers Part II

[Redlegvzv]

I was somewhat surprised by (but respectful of) the reaction by a lot of the folks here on the forum to my use of a Wolff or Wilson Combat spring kit to lessen the trigger pull of my Smith (and Ruger) revolvers. In these parts "trigger jobs" on revolvers are pretty darned common.
Anyhow, that thread caused me to question what I've been doing -- I agree that reliability is paramount -- I don't want a revolver that is picky about what ammo it will shoot reliably. Part of the panache of a revolver is that it will normally shoot anything, no feeding issues or similar nonsense like semi-auto shooters have to worry about.

I rotated my 686+, which has the Wolff Spring Kit, through 212 rounds this morning. I was particularly in a shooting mood, and there were some amiable fellow shooters in the adjacent shooting stall, so I stayed longer and shot more. I had two brands of ammunition, by the way -- Armscor (reputed to have hard primers) and Mag Tech. Shot two boxes of each.

Upshot is that I had one (1) malfunction of one round of Armscor. Not sure why as the primer strike looked fine. It fired on the third attempt, so there was plainly something going on with that one round. The other 211 rounds functioned perfectly. I would submit that this indicates pretty darned good reliability. I am confident that if I shot another 200 rounds most likely all 200 would function fine.

The trigger weight on the 686+ trigger, per my meter, is 8lbs 1.2 Oz, for those interested in such things. That's down from 11+ lbs. from the factory. With that pull, I can shoot for an entire morning without my trigger finger suffering. Thought some of you might be interested in these facts and figures.

Incidentally, the Hogue rubber grip is very kind to one's hand.

[Sgt 45]

I went to a Wolf spring from the one that the Performance Center had put in my 686+ as I was getting light strikes. With the Wolf spring I've had no problems at all in over 500 rounds

[Mrnurse]

Should be no Issues with Wolf Springs... you had a bad round. Ive used them on my 28 and 686 and a M1 Garand... Perfect..no issues of FTF.

[bovw]

I’ve got a 28-2 and a pre model 10 with the reduced power Wolf springs that work fine. I’ve also got a 10-6 that will not get through a cylinder with them. I thought at first it was ammo, but if I shoot all 3 out of the same box, only the 10-6 has issues.


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[Protocall_Design]

Every gun is an individual entity, based on the plus and minus tolerances of every particular part in that particular gun.

A good revo smith can make most guns fit the norm, but middle of the road can't be assumed automatically, especially when we're looking at a large variety of models made across decades of time, with many engineering changes.

[armorer951]

Thanks to the OP for that follow up.

I think the "danger" that is often felt, and perhaps poorly communicated by some of us, including me, is the perception by some that all firearms, including revolvers somehow benefit equally, and work reliably as a result of this "drop in" equipment (parts) change. This is often not the case, and it can be a disservice for manufacturers and vendors to communicate this mis-information.

The reasons for the caution are simple really. Although manufacturing tolerances are usually dutifully held to a high standard in most cases, there are always variances and discrepancies built in to every mechanical device. This makes each of them, in fact, "individual" and unique, right down to the level of how they function......in other words, some are better than others. The danger here is that while one revolver or pistol may work great with a particular "drop in" aftermarket add on product, some may not. In fact some may cease to work properly at all. In some cases, the owners are unaware that these add-ons have made their firearms unreliable....or perhaps, even unsafe.

The bottom line when adding or subtracting from a factory built example is to not just assume that all is well. Be sure to test and verify every marketing claim at the range.....especially with your duty or carry ammunition, and to do this testing with regularity. (AKA: often)

Another essential component after modification is regular maintenance and cleaning. If you have modified your firearm, the factory built-in extra margin for reliability is now gone. This means that cleanliness and proper lubrication is now even more important. After any alteration, regular maintenance, including gauge and function checks become even more critical. Be sure to evaluate, or have your qualified gunsmith or armorer evaluate the fitness of your carry and duty firearms regularly and carefully.....like your life depended on it. Because it does.

[minconrevo]

There are many factors that will result in FTF when one tunes the DA pull downward. Headspace, actually hammer blow poundage, and so on. I prefer to use the reduced poundage Wolff mainspring, then tune with trimming the strain screw and working with various rebound springs. Lots more than that to getting a really pleasant but dependable revolver. Your good revolversmith will earn his keep.

[Redlegvzv]

For the record, I never use the strain screw to adjust trigger pull weight. The strain screw should always be screwdriver tight. The only proper way to vary the trigger is to change the springs. That's how an armorer taught me to do it. I totally agree with everything Armorer951 said -- inspect regularly and so forth. Obviously I had failed to do that which led to this little learning incident. Lesson learned.

[joe44va]

I learned my lesson in very cold weather with an 11 pound Wolff trigger return spring and motor oil as the lube. The round fired but the trigger didn't return by itself. The lube had thickened. My bad. Since then I've used real gun oil sparingly with 13 pound springs. 30+ years without issues.

[Mrnurse]

Anytime you fool with the mechanics of ANY weapon ck it before you need it... 2nd Deer hunt in MD Farm 1977, 30F OAT , using a 870 with slugs, buck walk out 30 yds broadside, pull the trigger...CLICK... deer freezes, I pump quick, CLICK AGAIN... Deer runs off. I had Cleaned and Lubed with Grease to "Keep the action slick". Grease reduced FP speed I suspect.

[ImDrRichard]

I bought Wolf spring kits for my 629, 686+, and 351PD and I'm very happy with the results. Triggers are lighter and very smooth. Notably, they were too heavy (DA) out of the box.

[Redlegvzv]

Originally Posted by ImDrRichard

I bought Wolf spring kits for my 629, 686+, and 351PD and I'm very happy with the results. Triggers are lighter and very smooth. Notably, they were too heavy (DA) out of the box.

Yes. I respect the purists, but honestly, I cannot enjoy a firearm with a 14# double-action pull, and many S&Ws come that way. I too have had good luck with the Wolff Spring Kits.

[Benchrest1]

The best thing about a spring kit is you can undo it if it doesn't work the way you want.

[Redlegvzv]

Originally Posted by Benchrest1

The best thing about a spring kit is you can undo it if it doesn't work the way you want.

Yes, that's the way I look at it too. I am hoping to find a local to teach me how to change the mainspring and return spring so that I can do it myself. I've watched the You-Tube videos and it does not look hard, but with guns, there is always a trick to learn about taking them apart and putting them together.

[HOUSTON RICK]

I guess that I am just insensitive to these things. My S&W firearms seem to be fine to me in the condition that I get them. If I buy firearms used with a trigger job or heavier springs, I roll with that too. Factory is fine. No, I don't even change the grips. All my S&W's seem to work fine in the condition that they are acquired in. Now there is this one pesky Star BM that needs something...

[steelslaver]

While I am not above things like changing springs, shortening the mainspring screw etc. Head space and end shake are important. The hammer not being able to drag onanything etc. I make sure and stay well on the always goes bang side.

When I was in my 30s I got into Practical revolver shooting and chased the light trigger. Then, I figured out that smooth beat light and being a better trigger squeezer beat out both

[Eddietruett]

First let me say I have used and probably will use Wolff springs again for reasons every body else does but a spring job will not make a gun as good as a gunsmith that knows what he is doing. There is a difference in “light” and “smooth”. A 10lb DA that has been done by a good gunsmith can be better to shoot than a 8lb pull arrived at by using lighter springs