Bobbed Hammer on a 625?

WNC Seabee

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I picked up this 625 last year and LOVE it. It has become my favorite shooter by far. The only thing I'm not too crazy about is the 1/2 bobbed hammer that the previous owner did.

What's the purpose of this modification? I understand on a pocket carry piece the benefit of avoiding snags, but I doubt I'll be slipping this 5" N frame in a pocket...

This gun has had some quality trigger work on it that gives me an awesome DA pull and a light crisp SA that I don't want to mess with. If I swap out the hammer, am I risking anything?

Forsale006.jpg
 
Swapping hammer will cause you to loose the trigger job, how it effects the trigger pull remains to be seen. IMO the hammer bob is not too bad, if trigger is nice and I had reliable ingition I could live with that.
 
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Maybe the previous owner has a really high hold when he shoots and the target hammer has a long spur, thus hitting his hand and requiring a shift to make the shot. It is just a guess, but sometimes this happens to me. I do not have much a of a reason for any hammer spur on my revolvers.
 
I own and shoot both a 625-6 with 5" barrel and a 625-8 JM Special with a 4" barrel. They are my two favorite revolvers. I will run from 5000-7500 rounds per year through my 625's (all my own cast bullets).

If I had a sweet actioned (and I have TWO) model 625, there is NO WAY I would touch that hammer. Just ignore the looks and shoot it.

I MUCH prefer a hammer that I can easily cock (as yours appears to be). The explanation given is probably accurate.

I was not compatible with the JM grips on mine, so put Pachmayr Decelerators on both of mine. I LOVE them in spite of their "ordinary" appearance.

SW625-8JMSpecial-3351.jpg


QDalesRevolversandPistols-1717.jpg


This is why I am so enamored of these two revolvers. Standing at 25 yards:

img095.jpg


Or this:
img024.jpg


I won't bore you with more, but, you get the idea. These revolvers are the absolute easiest to score with pieces I own and I own a goodly number of fine revolvers. I term them "shooter friendly" and THAT they ARE!

Dale53
 
I own and shoot both a 625-6 with 5" barrel and a 625-8 JM Special with a 4" barrel. They are my two favorite revolvers. I will run from 5000-7500 rounds per year through my 625's (all my own cast bullets)...

I won't bore you with more, but, you get the idea. These revolvers are the absolute easiest to score with pieces I own and I own a goodly number of fine revolvers. I term them "shooter friendly" and THAT they ARE!

Dale53

So just out of curiousity, would you be willing to share a few specific details on your bullets? Just the usual: bullet style, weight, alloy, hardness, lube, & sizing.

Also, what's your load of choice?

There is a nasty rumor going around that the rifling in the .45acp 625s, don't do well w/ cast bullets. Obviously not true...
 
<This gun has had some quality trigger work on it that gives me an awesome DA pull and a light crisp SA that I don't want to mess with. If I swap out the hammer, am I risking anything?>

The previous owner may have opted to shorten the hammer a bit to lighten it. Custom revolvers that have very light trigger pulls require lightened hammers. In theory, a lighter hammer accelerates faster and shortens "lock time".........those milliseconds between when the trigger is pulled and the primer is struck. I'm not sure how much of an improvement over the stock hammer your gun has, but if it goes bang every time you pull the trigger, I'd leave well enough alone. As to loads: anything that shoots well in a 1911 will probably shoot just as well in your 625, especially cast lead bullets. Folks spend lots of money trying to get a 1911 to shoot groups that a box stock 625 will print. Welcome to the 625 club!
 
It has a frame mounted firing pin. You can grind away pretty much all of the hammer that you see in the pic and the revolver will still function. Removing that small nub of a spur can't make the pull any worse.

Dave Sinko
 
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