I recently purchased two S&W model 64's one is a 64-5 and one a 64-6. Both are fine shooters and the trigger pull is nearly identical. I am not going to keep both and would like some advice on which would be the better choice to hang on to.

Thoughts on what the benefits of each is such as: internal firing pin vs. hammer mounted firing pin and etc... I appreciate any ideas, comments, or links to websites/forums that you might have.

Is one more desirable than the other??

Is there a list of all of the engineering changes for these models with pros and cons?

Welcome to the Forum. If they are mechanically and cosmetically identical, any minor variations in configuration don't make any difference on a practical level, so I would choose whichever one you "like" better. The only difference on a collector level would be if either is a 2" or a 3", if so I'd keep that one.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

They are both 4", and they are very differently engineered (internal pin/hammer mounted, MIM/Forged parts etc...). I appreciate the reply though.

Is either stainless? If so let me know how much if you wanna sell it for.

I would definitely keep the one with the forged parts and hammer mounted firing pin, which I presume is going to be the -5. If you need to know why, just remove the sideplate of each and look at the internals. You will then understand why MIM is a cost cutting measure.

Dave Sinko

I would go with the one with forged parts also. BTW I have a 64 no dash with a pencil barrel and like it a lot.

Nothing wrong with the MIM guns and they are easier to "tune" with new parts, springs and an extended firing pin.

From a "value" standpoint, the forged part 64-5 will be "worth" more but 64's will never be investment guns anyway, in fact prices on these are going down right now.

I would keep both of them, you won't make much from the sale of either, both are maybe $350 guns if you sell them, so many were made they don't bring high prices. They are worth more as utility shooters and you might regret getting rid of it down the road if you decide to become a S&W collector. Having examples of both "old" and "new" S&W's is something I enjoy as a collector. I have S&W's from the 40's to present day and I love them all.

I have a 64-3 from 1978 and a 64-7 from 2002. Both are excellent shooters. I would get rid of neither of them.

I just fired my tuned up 10-14 today and I shot 50 rounds into a ragged hole in SA at 25 yards. It's a MIM gun and it's one of my best shooting S&W's.

Call me an old fudd if you like but to me a S&W should have the hammer mounted firing pin. The Colt Python and Rugers should have the internal firing pin. I know Ruger has been using injection molded parts for quite a while but the S&Ws of my day (which weren't that long ago) were forged steel.

If S&W made them like they did in the 80's-90's, they would cost more - fact #1

The current availability of new S&W's and the fact people are buying and shooting them keep the prices of the beloved older ones down - fact #2

As long as they still say "Marcas Registrada Made in U.S.A" on the frame I will keep buying them. I'm not going to turn my back on a company who's revolvers I grew up shooting in the early 90's over a design change.

I'd probably keep them both... but otherwise would choose the one that shot closest to point of aim with whatever ammo I preferred. The MIM guns can be tuned into very slick shooters with very little effort compared to what it takes on some (not all) of the older forged guns. But the forged ones are a little more traditional and aesthetically pleasing.

If you have no preference and are looking to sell one of them, make that part of your ad. "YOUR CHOICE MODEL 64 (-5) or (-6) ...!" and let the customer decide.
By the way, if you're looking for a price range I just bought a new in the box 2006 Model 64-8 for $400. It was part of a left over lot of Brinks Specials a local armorer had.

I really appreciate all of the comments and ideas regarding this subject. I've got to laugh though when nearly half the replies say "I'd keep both". I am not a collecter, just enjoy shooting and can't rationalize keeping an "extra" revolver of a nearly identical one I own. I would rather get something else to use, or just have the money in my pocket, and let someone else appreciate a good shooting firearm.

Unfortunately I was hoping you guys would come to a concensus on which one I should keep, but it has not made my decision any easier. I still welcome more thoughts on this as I've got some more time to decide before I make my selection and drop the other one off at my friends (he just wants a quality .38sp and is not concerned about the model at all).

I look forward to reading more thoughts and ideas by the knowledgeable members of this forum

Additionally, I found this information in another post in the S&W forum (courtesy Zebulon):

64 no dash 1970
64-1 1972- intro Hvy BBl
64-2 1977- Gas ring change
64-3 1977-Gas ring change on 4"
64-4 1988- New yoke retention
64-5 1988- Hammer nose bushing and yoke retention on Heavy barrel
64-6 1998- MIM hammer, floating firing pin, internal change
64-7 2002- Key lock
64-8 2004- 2 piece barrel


Maybe this will help with providing me some good ideas and suggestions.

Thanks Again All!!

Leave the 64-6-take the canolli (and the 64-5)

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Forum consigliere

As a shooter there is a good reason to have two identical revolvers, put one away as a "spare", or use one as a HD gun and then the other can be a "range gun".

If not, see what a local gun shop can give you in trade toward something you want, it will save the hassle of shipping, etc. and maybe you can get $300-400 toward another handgun.

For those who would like to own a 4" heavy-barreled 64-5, I have one for sale in the classifieds.

Ed

Edit: Well, I did but I can't find the thread now. Anyone interested in a nice 64-5 for $325 plus $25 shipping can contact me via P.M. or email.

Ahhhh..... Nothing kills a thread faster than when someone tries to sell their stuff instead of moving the topic along.

Ed, you got it right the first time. If you are selling post it in the classifieds NOT HERE!

Just a few weeks ago I got a S&W 64-5 with a three inch barrel for approx $475 delivered mail order legitimately. I'm very satisfied with my purchase, especially along with an S.L. Variant Speedloader for $35 delivered.

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NRA Endowment Member
GA DCOR

Don't count out the MIM guns as being "not as good" , my 64-7 is rock solid and is one of the best shooting revolvers I own.

You never have too many M64's.

Both would obviously be preferable as then you'd have a spare in case of mechanical problems. But if you have to pick one, and you plan on shooting it a lot, I would probably lean toward the 64-6.

The only reason I would lean that way is that replacement parts will be easier to obtain. For example, earlier this year I broke the hammer nose on my 3" 65-3. I could not find the replacement part. I checked a few online sources with no luck. S&W doesn't make or stock that part anymore. It took contacting three gunsmiths, one of whom was out-of-state, before I could find one that had the part and could do the work. It ended up costing me almost $100, half of that just for the part. The work was done by one of my local gunsmiths, and he was much cheaper than if I had sent it to the out-of-state gunsmith. If it was a 65-5, however, the part would've only cost me about $15.

You may want to check and see what the parts availability is like for each gun. I may be wrong and spare parts for the 64-5 may be just as available as spare parts for the 64-6. But I believe it's something to consider.

This 64-5, a purchase from J&G, has been superb. It went back to S&W for an action job and is now one of my favorite shooters.
Bob

Below is the 64-8 I bought from a local gunstore as a security guard trade-in. It had two slightly soiled chambers - and even still had all of the box goodies, including the 'Club 1852' application. All of their trade-in 64's were the same price - I chose this one - as it was new and had the box, etc - $309 OTD 5/08 - it was a year old then!



All of my fun to shoot revolvers - and this one could likely keep me happy all by itself. It stayed in the range bag that first year - sporting some Ahrends wood grips - and constantly dirty. Just pick it up - 125/130gr plinkers - 158gr +P LHPSWC - it didn't seem to matter - 12-15 yd or 25 yd - steel plates were rapidly discharged - or pinged. The box stock trigger broke in to be quite good, too.6/09 found it back in it's OEM squared UM's Combats - in it's home defender role - and the picture was taken. I still take it out and blast it when I can.

I mention my 'current production' 64 to illustrate that they are still a fine revolver in spite of having MIM parts, IL, and a two-piece barrel.

Stainz

My 64 no dash with the pencil barrel is one of my favorites. I call it the "model 10 perfected." But like Stainz said, the current line is real good as well. I am looking for either a 64 or 67 with the 2 piece barrel because of how accurate they have been known to be.

My 64-7, which for all intents and purposes is the same as the 64-6 but with the IL. I put the new Altamont magnas on it, and use it for CC.



My 66-7 which is more accurate than my Dan Wesson........so I traded off the Dan Wesson

Well, if you sell one, when you go to 'slap leather' in the inevitable ole' west 6-gun shootout, ONE of your hands is going to come up empty...

And THAT would be a greek tragedy!

Just watch any old western movie and you'll notice that they're always packing a matched pair of six-guns. I don't know about you, but I get all of my advice about life from the old western movies. Here's a quick quiz:
1. What do you do when you walk in a saloon? (order a bottle of whiskey)
2. What do you do when somebody is cheating at cards? (nothing says "life advice" like drinking whiskey while gambling with a loaded gun on your belt)

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But then, what do I know?

I would keep the one that shoots better and is in better condition.
The dash 5 revision came out sometime in 1988 but the lifetime warranty began sometime around 1989.

Do you know if older one was made before the lifetime warranty began?
If so keep the one with the warranty.

All other things being equal if the older one has forged hammer/trigger keep that one.

Can you post pictures of both and label them A and B?

I like the original model with the "pencil" barrel myself.....