I've read a lot about how S&W revolvers have better out of the box triggers than Rugers, but it's the exact opposite with the guns I own. My GP-100 DA pull is far better than either my 629 or 329 DA pull. But then I got to wondering whether this might be caliber related. Any thoughts?

It shouldn't be caliber-specific; the lockwork is the same between the K- (.17 to .357), L- (.357, .40, .44SPL), N- (.357 to .45), X- (.460, .500), and probably Z-frame (.45/.410) S&Ws (with a few differences concerning the endurance package for N, X, and probably Z-frames).

Similarly, I think the lockwork is the same between the Ruger SP101 (.22 to .357), GP100 (.327, .357), Redhawk (.357 to .45), and Super Redhawk guns (someone correct me if I'm wrong).

I think it's the luck of the draw; some Ruger-actions are smoother, some S&W-actions are smoother. Depends on what your preferences are and how you plan on shooting them. Your GP100's trigger may well be better in double-action than your 329 or 629 in double-action. It may simply be broken in more.

How are the single-action trigger pulls between your GP100 and 329 and 629? Lighter/heavier? Crisper/creepier? Differences in over-travel?

I have rugers in 357mag and in 44mag and my new S&W m57 in 41mag has the most awesome trigger out of all my guns. Its my very first S&W gun too. I've even lube all my sears with moly too and the new S&W m57 still beats all my triggers. I like all guns so it doesn't matter to me which one is a tad better trigger wise. But my new S&W trigger surprised me. It makes me think a really good S&W gunsmith did the fitting on my trigger thats why its so much better. Its not the normal trigger job like on my other guns from the manufacturers. It feels like this one smith takes pride in his work/trade. Some of my older 70's rugers have well used triggers that still don't feel this smooth as my new S&W. I'm hooked on the "N" frame S&W's now for sure i want them all. But i still want more rugers too. Bill

Moly;

Eliminates all wear
Reduces Friction
Prevents Galling
Fights Corrosion
Stays we put it.
Stays wet

Moly works its way into the tiny pores of the metal and there is no metal to metal contact, its moly against moly thus the wear is eliminated. Plus it reduces friction too. Moly on the sear can eliminate up to 50% of the trigger pull right away and more as it works in. On the semi auto pistols and rifles the gun will cycle faster and smoother too when its lubed with moly. I also use moly on my revolvers too. My guns even after a long term storage are ready to rock n roll at anytime when there lubed with moly. My guns never leave home with it. www.tsmoly.com I use the paste or anti seeze it has a higher % of moly in it. This is the number 1 lube on the planet. I know that most don't know about it too. Oil is for the bores and prevents rust, it does nothing against wear, if your seeing any wear at all your present lube isn't working. Don't let your guns wearout before there time. Mine will never have to be replaced and will be handed down to the future generations of my family too. Why not use the right lube so your guns won't wear out? I can't dream of purchasing the same guns over and over because there wearing out. I'm not even seeing the finish on the frame rails wear off when the moly is used. Even with many rounds thru it i see no wear yet.

I have nothing to do with he manufacture of moly nor the sales of it. My fight is seeing so many used guns with so much wear when it can be prevented with just a $25 can of lube, its very sad to see the wear. Now is a $25 can of lube worth it? I'm sure we all have guns that we can't replace too. I don't want to even think about replacing them.

Don't know about the SA pulls. I only shoot revolvers in DA. All the guns have pretty similar round counts ie around 750. But that not withstanding the GP-100 trigger was far smoother right out of the box. I'd heard that GP-100 trigger pulls are probably Ruger's best. I've never shot a Redhawk in .44 Mag to compare to my 629, nor have I shot a 686 or 627 to compare to my GP-100. Without a doubt the 329 has the grittiest and stiffest DA pull of the three. I figured that might be because it's the smallest. Anyway if it's the luck of the draw, I got lucky twice because I have two GP-100s with equally smooth trigger pulls.

To a great extent it is the luck of the draw. However one distinct positive for the S&W leaf spring lockwork is that it can be tuned to produce a smoother trigger pull than anything with a coil spring riding on a strut. One issue you'll always have to contend with on a coil mainspring action is the friction of the spring rubbing on the strut. It's also far easier to adjust the pull weight with the leaf spring, all you have to do is adjust the strain screw.

Now, before you do any tuning I would advise that you put at least 1000 rounds downrange. My 620 had a bit of grit in the action and the wear marks on the trigger and the frame revealed the cause, the trigger was rubbing on the frame. Adding a 0.0015 thick shim to the trigger boss fixed that rub and dusting perhaps 0.0005 inch from 2 ratchet pawls on the extractor finished the job. Now it's running as smooth as my 610 which required nothing more than the installation of a lighter rebound spring and a tweak to the strain screw. As noted, it is the luck of the draw, I had to do a bit of fitting on my 620, on the 610 it didn't need any fitting at all.

As for trigger weights, I'm using a Lyman digital to check the weight. I've also been using Speer Lawman to test for ignition reliability. Currentlly the 620 checks at 8 lbs. even with a 2 ounce variation and is 100% reliable with the standard firing pin installed. The 610 checks at 9 lbs. even with a 3 ounce variation and is 100% reliable with the standard firing pin but gains a 30% misfire rate with the trigger set to 8.5 lbs. I've now installed a Cylinder & Slide extended throw firing pin and plan on doing more experimentation to determine how light I can take the trigger while achieving 100% reliability in double action.

Sum it all up and there is no reason at all why you should have to tolerate a gritty trigger on either of your Smith's. They are pretty easy to tune up and you really have to try a well tuned Smith to understand how much you are missing. However, shoot them a bit before tuning because the wear marks will provide vital clues to what areas need a bit more fitting.

FYI there is no comparing the redhawk to the 629's they may be stronger but has far has trigger pull's are concerned their not not even in the same book let alone on the same page . lol!!! PS I have 7 or 8 ruger 44's I like a lot but fact's are fact's

I guess it's luck of the draw but for the most part. Smiths have smoother triggers than Rugers. I have a nice Ruger SP-101 that I swapped in a set of wolff springs and that made a difference.

Surprisingly, the worst S&W trigger out of my meager collection is from my 686-6 (5" Stocking Dealer Special)

True, but incomplete. Heavier cylinders add weight to DA pulls. For me the weight difference is noticabe in DA pulls comparing N and K frame .38/.357s but more importantly the longer trigger reach of the N frame results in less leverage to manipulate its DA. Also, the coil mainspringed J frames can't quite equal the best K frames for DA pull in my experience.

[/QUOTE] Similarly, I think the lockwork is the same between the Ruger SP101 (.22 to .357), GP100 (.327, .357), Redhawk (.357 to .45), and Super Redhawk guns (someone correct me if I'm wrong). [QUOTE]

You'll have to take my word for this one. I don't have a camera to post pictures of disassembled Rugers. DA Ruger frames have different lockwork designs. For example, the Redhawk is Ruger's only frame that uses a single coil spring for both mainspring and trigger rebound.



In my experience, before Tompkins took over S&W in the late 1980s, out of the box S&Ws usually did have better DA pulls than out of the box Rugers. You could almost count on it. Since 1990 or so a lot of out of the box S&Ws have had disappointing DA pulls but they could always be tuned to great DA pulls. Rugers can be tuned also but their DA can't equal the best S&Ws.

My experience with Rugers has been that Redhawks have Ruger's worst out of the box DA and SA and usually need an action job, the Security/Speed Six series and Super Redhawks have better DA pulls and usually also better SA pulls than Redhawks, GP100s usually have even better DA pulls but Ruger's ugly duckling LCR has their best DA. I have no experience with SP 101s have only shot one LCR.

I suggest you get a book or DVD on tuning S&Ws or pay to have one of yours tuned so you experience the DA that made S&W the world's best selling revolver before dumping yours. After all, the big bucks for purchasing them is already spent.

Best Regards,
Gil

I think it depends on the individual gun. My Redhawk 44 has one of the best out of the box triggers of all my revolvers. However, the SP101 I got rid of had the worst.

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