Recently procured a 686 4", has the CS-1 and M stamps on frame.

Went to the range today, and found that I was getting light strikes, sometimes 2 in a row on the same cylinder (would re-index the round for a second strike, and it wouldn't go off till a third). Shooting Remington Green box 357 JHP.

Is this a characteristic problem for this gun? Seemed the light strike was at the same position each time it happened.
Any help?

As to the other part of the range report, I had to shoot at 25 yds on the rifle range, not one of the semi-private pistol bays where I could shoot closer and check more often. So, I THINK my sights are high, but wow, I have to get some different grips so I can hold on to the thing. I guess I'm too used to my autos, basically a rookie at this wheel gun thing.

Thanks for the help! I'm setting back a box and some bubble wrap for the gun to get a trip to Smith's place.

Ammo? Ammo mix?

Those too could be responsible, especially if you're shooting only one brand, or the cheapest ammo you could find, or reloads (not your own). In short, this is not imo a "characteristic" of this model. The CS designation was for Customs Service and those folks depended on this model for awhile for their lives. Additionally, your sights are adjustable and should be pretty easy to dial in for whatever load you finally settle on as a primary one. So I'm not getting, at this juncture, why you are contemplating "a trip to Smith's place".

Please advise further.

Is there any end shake on the cylinder? Is the strain screw screwed in all the way? Is the main spring original or an after market spring?

No misfires due to light primer strikes are not normal.

Check for debris under the ejector star. There may be some fowling under it (cleaning brush bristle or unburned powder grains). Also check the mainspring strain screw (its on the front of the grip at the bottom under the grips it pushes on the leaf spring to provide tension) it may be loose or has been loosened/shortened by someone seeking a lighter DA trigger pull. If its loose tighten it up. If its been shortened get a new one they are cheap. Another possibility is that someone replaced the mainspring (leaf spring under the grips) with a lighter one. If it has a rib down the center it has been replaced. The stock one has no rib.

Sounds like you got a lemon..... Id be happy to take that cs1 off your hands!

Agreed-

Back when we used to carry revolvers for duty use, I lost track of the number of officers who would come to the range, and brag about their home done action job - "All I had to do was turn this little screw a couple times"... Well, you know the rest...

Don't know what you have for grips, but "rubbers" are ugly as sin, and work great..

Larry

As you've discovered the 40 S&W isn't the least bit "snappy" when compared to the 357 Magnum. Presonally I've found that the monogrip for the 500 Magnum makes shooting Magnums in my 620 enjoyable for about 50 rounds, after that I just get too tired to properly control the recoil and my accuracy goes way downhill. These grips are available through S&W web site Store and are a great choice for those who have medium to large hands, however they will only fit the round butt grip frame. Good news is that according to my SWSC the CS-1's were all round butt guns, so the 500 Magnum grip will slide right on.

As for the light strikes, the answer to this issue is most likely adding power to the mainspring. This will increase the weight of the trigger pull in Double Action but you should be able to get good reliable ignition with a DA trigger weight of 9 lbs., which isn't at all difficult to shoot with. How to get there depends on what has been done to your gun.

Many shooters will put a dab of locktight on the strain screw and wait for it to set with the strain screw backed out slightly. If that is the case, using a properly fitted screwdriver and applying enough force will break it loose. Free it up in the unscrew direction and then tighten it all the way until it's fully seated in the frame.

Another trick is to file the strain screw shorter. In that case the easy answer is to purchase a new strain screw, they only cost 3.29 at a source such as Brownells.

The final trick is to replace the factory mainspring with a lighter "competition" mainspring. It that's the case you'll want to order the standard weight Mainspring, also available from Brownell's for about 17 dollars.

Note, restoring the mainspring to full power will solve your ignition issues, however it may also produce a trigger pull a bit heavier than needed. If so, there are ways to reduce the trigger pull to the 9 lbs. region and maintain reliable ignition, however it's best to have a good trigger pull gage before undertaking something like this. Personally I find the Lyman Digital, also available from Brownell's for about 60 bucks an excellent unit. In addition you'll want a rebound spring tool, the Kuhnhausen S&W Shop Manual, and a 14 lbs. rebound spring. Total everything up and you'll have invested well more than 100 bucks. Good news is that you'll learn how to properly tune the action in a S&W revolver, so if you get into shooting wheelguns it'll pay off in the long run. Bad news is that if you become a wheelgunner it gets addicting, you'll never find you have enough. If you just want to get your CS-1 running properly it'll probably be cheaper just to have a good gunsmith look at it.

It didn't occur to me to check for fouling under the star. The first couple of batches of 6 had not problem, maybe when I ejected the rounds a grain of something got under there.

As to the spring, the strain screw has apparently been backed out, as it stands proud above the grip frame. I will run it in before my next trip to the range, that too sounds very likely as a contributor to the issue.

As to grips, I like some of the wood finger grip ones for looks, but for range time I am pretty sure the uglier rubber grips will help me there. My square butt Taurus with wood grips was much easier to hold on to with hot loads, so I think the rubber grips will find their way on to this gun.

As to the lemon, I done tried to sell this thing once, and didn't get no takers............

I am a new member and new to S&W but not new to revolvers by about 50 years. You said you "procured" this revolver but gave no details of its age or earlier life if you know it.

As others have said, if this gun has been modified by a previous owner you need to check the basic operation of the action before you ship it off for repair. In my opinion, the best way to get the most out of any gun is to know just how it works - and the best way I know to do that is tear her down. First of all you will be able to see just how the parts coexist/work together, and secondly you will be sure it is properly cleaned and lubricated when you are done.

I am sure there are gunsmithing tips and tricks on this forum. I am waiting for delivery of my first S&W - a custom 686 3-5-7 7" barrel all stainless revolver. Be assured that the first thing I will do is take it all apart and clean out the factory lube and put her all back together with my personal choice lubes.

The strain screw went in about 2-1/2 turns, no discernable difference in trigger pull, so Saturday at the range may tell the tail there.

Again, thanks for the help - I will report back!

If the strain screw turned in 2.5 turns, it is almost certainly the culprit. I'm surprised it didn't misfire more than it did.

A lot of things can cause a light strike but if your strain screw was backed out that is probably your culprit. If you tighten it all the way and still get light strikes then you may have a problem. Despite the popularity of factory grips now to have guns be original the fact is they suck for shooting. It is no accident an entire industry rose up to meet the demand for usable grips when revolvers were king. Get some Hogues or Pachmyers and give them a try.

As far as your sights if you will zero your gun at 7 yards it will be very close to on at 25. Maybe a couple clicks low. If you are Xing out at 7 and missing at 25 it is not the gun.

Careful now! I resemble that remark!