Just got new 686-6 4" for IDPA work. What parts on this series are MIM? I read that Smith PC parts are not MIM and are direct replacement for the MIMs on this 686....school me Smith experts thanks
officerdave

Forged and MIM parts are interchangeable for recent production revolvers, however with the forged parts it's likely that the hammer and trigger will have to be "'fitted" by an expert. The specific parts to the best of my knowlege are the hammer, trigger, and rebound slide.

I also have a hammer and trigger in my 610-3 that appear to be color case hardened but the trigger has the scoop on the rear surface that is a feature of MIM parts. IMO in spite of looking like forged parts they are MIM that is made using a material mix that allows it to be "colored". I also have no problems with the use of MIM parts as S&W has implemented the process. The MIM parts have demonstrated durability that matches the forged parts and I know from experience that the MIM guns are easier to do an action tuning on. The reason why they are easier to tune is quite simple, the parts fit better than the older forged parts, so they require a lot less work to get a really smooth trigger. Not knocking the forged parts, however IMO MIM is actually superior.

Also, I've seen indications that the Performance Center is running out of their stock of the forged hammers and triggers, I recently looked over a couple of new PC 627's and the triggers in both guns had the same hallmark for MIM as the trigger on my 610-3.

I've also seen indications that the older cut rifled barrels in the J frames have reached the end of that stock. Until recently only the PC J frames featured barrels made using the ECM process, however currently the ECM barrels are showing up in more of the standard production J frames and there have been several postings questioning new J frames with barrels that look shot out and over polished, which is how the ECM barrels look. BTW, I have an ECM barrel in my 620 and I've managed to shoot a 1/2 inch 3 shot cloverleaf at 50 yards with the 620, so it's NOT shot out or overpolished even if it looks that way. I also think that the super smooth surface finish that results from the ECM process may provide a velocity gain when shooting jacketed ammo, however at present I have no way of confirming that. One of these days I may actually purchase a chronograph to confirm this hunch by comparing 38 spl. in my 67-1 and 620, both of which have identical B/C gaps of 0.006 inch.

Point is that production methods are changing and IMO that's NOT a bad thing. Those complaining about these newer methods are missing out some of the finest revolvers that S&W has ever produced.

Take my 620 as an example, DA trigger pull is super smooth and weighted at 8 lbs. 0 ounces with 100% perfect reliability with any of the major brands of ammunition. That's a result of the MIM parts and the frame mounted firing pin allowing me to use an extended firing pin. Then there is the accuracy, which is flat out stunning. I'm firmly convinced that with a 4X handgun scope, enough time spent at a benchrest, taking up Yoga to contorl my excitability, and totally giving up the use of caffiene I could group it an inch or less at 100 yards. That's a result of the 2 piece tensioned barrel that so many labled as a "cost cutter" and inferior method for making a barrel.

scooter is correct that the parts in question are the hammer, trigger, and rebound slide; also that MIM makes for an easy action job. I worked on my 686-6, and did a few things which really weren't even necessary. All the parts, along with the trigger and hammer bosses inside the frame, were already quite smooth and fit well together.

One item scooter didn't mention -probably insignificant- is that the double action sear is designed differently in the MIM hammer, so those aren't interchangeable with the ones in the forged hammer(unless I'm missing something).

Andy

thanks guys...I might just send back to Smith PC for their tuning and leave it at that. I have a newer MIM parts j frame backup and shoot it alot with no issues.
On related note, besides Smith PC, does anyone out here have first hand experience with gunsmiths that work primarily on Smith wheel guns?

thanks to all

officerdave