I walked into my LGS tonight looking for a can of gun wax to buff out the finish of my new-to-me model 586 in blue. The shop didn't carry what I'd asked for but the owner shared a tip that I thought I'd pass on here. He told me to use any good quality automotive carnauba paste wax, but it must be carnauba. No problem...I had some Royal Blue Carnauba Paste Wax on the shelf in my garage. So I went home and applied two coats of Royal Blue to the blued finished of my 586, hand buffing with a clean, microfiber cloth in-between and OMG! This thing is gorgeous! The finish is much smoother, deeper in color and very rich looking now. It doesn't fingerprint either. All this time, I thought stainless was the way to go, but after this revelation...there's a whole new world of possibilities.

This is probably old information for the majority of guys in here, but if you ever found yourself steering clear of blued finishes because of the rigors of taking care of them - Royal Blue Carnauba Wax is the answer.

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Northwest Ohio

Most soft wax contains at least some water.

The main thing to look for if using a natural wax like Carnauba meant for auto's is that there can be absolutely zero abrasives present in the wax. Personally, I use Renaissance Wax and am done with it. While it's a little more pricey, it's a museum grade product and a very small amount goes a long, long way.



Bruce

I have been using carnauba wax, ment for autos, with some very fine abrasive in it, on my hunting and carry guns for maybe 10+ years. It is especially good on my old hammer doubles that I use for duck and goose hunting -- best waterproofing for metal I ever used. NONE of these guns have especially good bluing left, having been hunting or working guns for decades and decades, two since 1890. These guns get wet many times each season.

I simply lather some on, wipe it around a bit, let it dry, then wipe excess off with soft cloth, no buffing (these are hunting guns, so not much shine wanted).

For bragging guns with better finish, pure carnauba with no abrasive at all should give peace of mind about possible premature wear on finish. For working guns, careful selection of carnauba auto wax might be quite OK, even better than OK.

Niklas

Most serious collectors advise not using auto wax, as some do contain fine abrasives. Most use either Renaissance Wax or Johnson's paste wax. I have been using the Johnson's wax for several years now with excellent results.

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Always Stay Strong!

This is an excerpt from an article written by David Arnold, Conservator of the Springfield Museum.

Use a microcrystalline wax, such as Renaissance Wax

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James Redfield
LM #497

count me in the renaissance wax fan club...great stuff

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SWCA#2208
KK4EMO

+1 on the Renaissance wax

Just started using Johnson's Paste Wax. One can could be passed on to the children if it is only used on guns.

Question for you wax users. Once applied, does it come off during the first cleaning??? I would think that the chemicals used would strip it. Please shed some light on this. Thanks, Bob

Are these waxes only for safe queens, or are they suitable for guns that get shot too?

I use Johnson's Paste Wax on every gun I own, shooters and safe queens alike. It provides protection to metal and wood and makes some of the firing residue easier to clean. Nice to be able to handle your gun on a humid day and not have to wipe it off every time you touch it.

The wax can't build up because it is solvent based and gun cleaning solvents remove it too.

One thing to keep in mind about using wax to preserve steel, even though many museums use it and recommend it, the objects they are preserving are kept in a glass case in a temp and humidity controlled environment. For that application wax works pretty well. In the real world where sweaty hands will come in contact and the temp will fluctuate wax has limitations. At about 85 degrees fahrenheit wax will simply evaporate away (so will oil but much more slowly). When you wax a car how long does it last before it needs another coat? Fine woodworkers have used wax for years on their table saw decks to resist rust in the shop and they prefer wax because it doesn't leave an oily stain on an expensive piece of hardwood when it comes in contact with the table. Most of the honest ones will tell you it doesn't work very well against rust. I have had to maintain a number of cast iron tables on shop equipment and the best thing I have found is Breakfree Collector and Eezox. Wax works under mild conditions but there are much better products to use.

I have used carnauba auto wax on my hunting and carry guns for over 10 years and, yes, it does wear off and, of course, any cleaning solvents do remove it. Yes, I do renew it before any hunt expected to get rained on. Regular use has stopped rusting on exteriors of my old hunting guns. Note that I wipe them down and get them dry asap after each hunt.

Niklas

I use Renaissance wax and Johnson Floor Paste wax and at times can't really tell the difference. Johnson's really works better on wood. The edge goes to Renaissance though on metal.

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Dick

Butchers Bowling Alley wax works great.

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ASA/NSA 67-71
NRA Benefactor

The main reason wax is recommended over oil is due to the fact that oil attracts and holds on to dust. Dust holds moisture and moisture leads to rust. Wax will not hold the dust and therefore that problem is eliminated.

Typically, the museum pieces are like safe queens and do not get handled often, so Patrick raises a valid point. I still believe that wax prevents fingerprints whereas oil does not. There are corrosive salts in persperation that the wax will repel where the oil will not.

Like most things in life, to each his own. I have used both oil and wax and for long term storage in my room, the wax seems to hold up better.

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James Redfield
LM #497

I have been using Kiwi neutral shoe polish wax for years. Started using it when I was in LE and carried a M-10. (That was a long time ago)

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May God Bless The USA

Renaisance Wax is the stuff! Put it on, and don't worry about it! If you research it online, it was developed for, and is used to clean and polish one-of-a-kind, priceless museum pieces. It sure brings out that deep, rich Smith & Wesson blue, particularly the older ones. I'm just like the preceding 17 who have posted, just my personal opinion, experience, and $.02 worth.
DLB

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Be Kind! John 3:16,14:27

i use Lundmark's paste wax. it's very durable stuff. it contains only carnuba wax and turpentine. perfect for guns, and the pool table.

There is nothing like it.......I supply the NRA Museum and many many others Worldwide!

Do Not use carnuba or bees wax as they are very pasty, acidic and will 'yellow' over time!

If you have any questions please call me at 800-229-5530 or visit my website; Restoration, Preservation, Conservation

If you want a surface cleaner for your 'blued' finish and more...use Pre-Lim!
regards,
Dennis

So by using wax on a car where the surface temperature will hit 85 on most sunny days, your telling me it will evaporate?

Groo here
If you use wax [ I do not any more]
and need to refinish the gun ,, be sure to tell the finisher!!!!!!!!!!!
At one time , wax was the thing for cops out in the county
where it is wet etc ..
But it gets into the pores of the metal and is a pain to get out
so you get a good finish to stick...

ABSOLUTELY +1 for Ren Wax.

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

I've been using the same $2 can of Johnson's paste wax for about ten years now. Still a bunch left. I'm guessing the little can of Renwax would last me the rest of my days, but I still have so much Johnson's left that I can't bring myself to get something else.

Who sells Renaissance wax? Hardware store? Home Depot?

Thank You! Mac

I believe Midway sells the Renwax mentioned.

Scott's Liquid Gold on blue guns, and makes wood stocks look like new!

Need to find a woodworking supply store for this wax, or order online.

Forgot to mention that Scott's Liquid Gold is a great stainless steel cleaner too - try it on SS appliances if you have them.