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08-20-2011, 03:31 PM
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anyone with advice ...357 magnum performance center 8 shoots model 327 2 " barrel
i bought the s&w 357 magnum performance center 8 shots model 327 2" barrel
excited,,, went to the range and shot 50 rounds 38 special Ammos,,,took it to the next level with hornady 125 gr 357 and after the first 8 rounds the cylinder opened but the empty jackets wouldn't eject ,,asked for help from the range person who told me that the use of the 38 had caused accumulation of bore and that was the reason for the jamm , after cleaning it and going back to the range , I loaded up with 8 rounds of 357 hornady 125 grains and this time it shot three bullets and the cylinder would not rotate to shoot anymore and would not open ,,,a complete lock out,,does anyone know if this is a defect in the model or I just happen to get unlucky with this one gun? I appreciate any replies as I need to solve this problem by monday
tnxs in advanced, dr machado
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08-20-2011, 03:42 PM
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Get rid of the Hornady
I have a model 327 night guard, I shot some Hornady defense rounds and everyone of the shells would not come out of the cylinder, this is the only ammo I have ever had trouble with. I quit using them completely.
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08-20-2011, 03:59 PM
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tnx u very much
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08-20-2011, 07:58 PM
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My immediate suspicion is that you've experienced a primer push out of the primer pocket. Another possibility is that a bullet has become unseated and it's poking out in front of the cylinder. In both cases a close look should reveal either of these possibilities. If it's a high primer, applying a REASONABLE amount of force should get the cylinder open. You may also want of slip a common business card between the cylinder and the stop notch to disengage the cylinder and allow it to rotate, this will allow the cylinder to spin a bit and make starting to open the cylinder a good bit easier. If a bullet has unseated, use that same business card trick to rotate the cylinder in a backwards direction until the offending round is positioned below the barrel where there is clearance for it to allow the cylinder to open. Note, unlocking the cylinder stop with a business card requires inserting it into the gap between cylinder and frame from front to rear with a slightly firm push. Once that card is in place the cylinder should be free to turn in either direction. However, at this point you DO NOT want to "force" anything. IMO if you can't get the cylinder open with a moderate amount of force you should take the gun to a qualified gunsmith.
It's also remotely possible that the ejector rod on your new 327 has become unscrewed. This will both bind up the cylinder and make opening the cylinder nearly impossible. IMO it's pretty darned unlike to happen with just 3 rounds fired but since this can happen I'll cover what to do if it ever happens for real.
Normal procedure for re-tightenting the cylinder rod in the field requires that the cylinder be completely fired off. What you do in this case is pinch the knurling on the end of the ejector rod with a thumbnail and cock and release the hammer to drive it around and hold the cylinder rod in a fixed position. Usually 3 or 4 full turns of the cylinder will screw the ejector rod in enough to allow the cylinder to be opened. After that you field strip the revolver, remove the cylinder, and properly tighten the ejector rod. Note, on every gun made post 1961 this is a LEFT HAND THREAD, so you have to remember to turn it "backwards". As for tightening the ejector rod, I'll get to that later.
Because your cylinder still has live rounds in it, you'll have to use an alternative means to allow the cylinder to rotate without using the lockwork to rotate the cylinder. Fortunately, this is actually rather easy to do, all you need to do is insert some type of shim between the cylinder lock and the stop notches. Something as simple as a business card can be used to do this. Place that shim into the frame gap under the cylinder and slide it between the stop and cylinder in a front to back motion. Note, with a business card you will feel some resistance but a firm push won't cause any harm. Once that card is in place you'll find the cylinder is completely free to rotate. Now, pinch the knurling on the ejector rod and rotate the cylinder in a counterclockwise direction with thumb and forefinger looking from the rear. Keep your finger off the trigger and don't touch the hammer and the gun won't fire. Since you are currently in a bind, it will take some effort to keep the ejector rod from spinning at first and to rotate the cylinder. Once you've screwed the ejector rod in about 1/2 to 1 turn you should then find the cylinder torns freely. Continue rotating the cylinder until you can't keep the ejector rod from turning with the cylinder. At that point you should be able to open the cylinder and unload it. Then as before it's a field strip and proper tightening of the ejector rod.
Now, for tightenting the ejector rod properly. First, it's not that difficult and you probably have everything needed in your home. What you need is a small piece of leather belt to fold over the knurling on the ejector rod and a commom pair of pliers to squeeze that leather on the ejector rod, BTW, to not use Vice Grips, they have too much power. I'll also warn you that it does require developing a "feel" for doing this which can only be learned by trial and error, meaning if it shoots loose you snug it up a bit tighter. If your are right handed take the cylinder in your left hand with the ejector rod facing you. Now squeeze with that left hand and use it as a slip clutch, which means that when it starts you slip you allow it to slip and don't squeeze harder to keep it from slipping. As for how hard to squeeze, think firm handshake. Now grasp that leather shielded knurling with the pliers and snug in up with a rotary motion in the LEFT hand direction. Be careful to just rotate it, if you put and bending force on it you can bend the ejector rod. I'll also note it doesn't have to be stupid tight but it must be fairly firm, think about a jar of pickles that's bit hard to open but NOT gut busting tight.
Last edited by scooter123; 08-20-2011 at 08:22 PM.
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08-20-2011, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilddoc
.... the range person who told me that the use of the 38 had caused accumulation of bore and that was the reason for the jamm , after cleaning it and...
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Sounds like your first magnum.... shooting specials out a magnum leaves one stubborn crud ring in the cylinders and normal cleaning procedures do not help much. My guess is that the crud ring is still binding your .357 shells and is causing the jam.
My .357 is becoming a safe queen owing to the crud ring cleaning problem .
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08-21-2011, 07:30 AM
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thank you guys...the house that sold me my 357 beauty is willing to replace it with a brand new gun as I do a lot of business with him ,I think just getting a replacement and using regular 357 magnum ammo will keep this from happening again and my main concern was that it was a model problem...again tnx u and if I can help with a dental question or issue please ask.....machado,d,d,s
I'll be carrying my Taurus 410 45 public defender for now until my new baby comes in....again thank you
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08-21-2011, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilddoc
i bought the s&w 357 magnum performance center 8 shots model 327 2" barrel
excited,,, went to the range and shot 50 rounds 38 special Ammos,,,took it to the next level with hornady 125 gr 357 and after the first 8 rounds the cylinder opened but the empty jackets wouldn't eject ,,asked for help from the range person who told me that the use of the 38 had caused accumulation of bore and that was the reason for the jamm , after cleaning it and going back to the range , I loaded up with 8 rounds of 357 hornady 125 grains and this time it shot three bullets and the cylinder would not rotate to shoot anymore and would not open ,,,a complete lock out,,does anyone know if this is a defect in the model or I just happen to get unlucky with this one gun? I appreciate any replies as I need to solve this problem by monday
tnxs in advanced, dr machado
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I had the same issue with my new 357 pro series with the same ammo. Hornady 357 mag 125gr.
I thought the same thing your range guy did, the 38 special caused a build up on the cylinder but the problem turned out to be the ammo itself.
Another guy on a another forum had the same issue's with the hornady ammo, turns out we bought it from the same place and the lot numbers were the same.
You can see the casing swell up slightly at the base after you shoot them. Hornady will buy them back.
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08-21-2011, 05:16 PM
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tnx u very much,,,, that helps a lot to know ill b on it 2morrow asap as i bought ammos 45 colt 45 acp 357 hewwww what a mess! ill stick to winchester, federal etc from now on ...tnx u
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08-26-2011, 09:52 PM
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I got my model 327 replaced but I think the problem was not the ammo but rather the fact that this gun needs the moonclip
I'll be testing it tomorrow I'll post to let u guys know
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08-26-2011, 10:58 PM
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Keep us up to date please. Also where are the pictures?? Welcome to the forum also.
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08-27-2011, 10:03 PM
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thx u for the welcoming Peyton...it was for sure the hornady ammo......400 rounds Winchester ,Remington ,moonclip on moonclip not on and my 327 8 shots 2" barrel had no complains...my best gun yet and I have a few....this one is my primary concealed carry from now on as it is accurate has minimum weight great grip etc etc etc.....
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08-27-2011, 10:08 PM
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http://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstore...0245_01_lg.jpg it has another yet more beautiful grip....I'll try to post a video of the gun at the range but it may be difficult as I am very dumb with computers...best regards
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04-19-2012, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilddoc
i bought the s&w 357 magnum performance center 8 shots model 327 2" barrel
excited,,, went to the range and shot 50 rounds 38 special Ammos,,,took it to the next level with hornady 125 gr 357 and after the first 8 rounds the cylinder opened but the empty jackets wouldn't eject ,,asked for help from the range person who told me that the use of the 38 had caused accumulation of bore and that was the reason for the jamm , after cleaning it and going back to the range , I loaded up with 8 rounds of 357 hornady 125 grains and this time it shot three bullets and the cylinder would not rotate to shoot anymore and would not open ,,,a complete lock out,,does anyone know if this is a defect in the model or I just happen to get unlucky with this one gun? I appreciate any replies as I need to solve this problem by monday
tnxs in advanced, dr machado
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thanks for the sharing wilddoc... i will never buy hornady again. i just got the same revolver and can't wait to try her out! she is definitely extraordinary, a one of a kind "snubby" and almost too pretty to shoot!
btw: take the gun and look at her straight down the barrel... is it just my eyes playing tricks or does the "custom titanium barrel shroud special lock nut system" appear to be slightly jacked to the left??? - or is it just the way the lines are cut? no matter how much i look at her, my conclusion is that she does not look laser straight...
Last edited by lee_radio; 04-19-2012 at 06:53 PM.
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04-19-2012, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilddoc
thank you guys...the house that sold me my 357 beauty is willing to replace it with a brand new gun as I do a lot of business with him ,I think just getting a replacement and using regular 357 magnum ammo will keep this from happening again and my main concern was that it was a model problem...again tnx u and if I can help with a dental question or issue please ask.....machado,d,d,s
I'll be carrying my Taurus 410 45 public defender for now until my new baby comes in....again thank you
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I don't really agree with the idea that you should not be able to shoot 38 specials out of a 357 mag. I routinely do so (as do most 357 mag owners). Yes the crud builds up a little and you have to scrub it with a brass brush (a 40 cal size works well for the cylinder since its larger than the barrel), but it should NOT cause the gun to bind up that quickly. IMO, If the 357 rounds drop easily into the cylinder then it should be fine to shoot them. If you have to push to get them to drop in then its time to scrub the cylinders.
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04-19-2012, 11:17 PM
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Is it a lock model? If so, there's your answer. Had the same thing happen on three different lock guns when rapid firing through .357 magnum.
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12-31-2016, 10:10 AM
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Similar experience
The only similar story I can tell is about a Ruger 357mag LCR b/c normally I don't see revolver jambs, ergo why many prefer them.
It was shooting Armscor 125gr FMJ at bargain prices
only to find
inaccurate, certainly beyond 27 feet
and then .....
a bullet might work its way forward out of the case, just enough to block cylinder turn
First thought to be a novelty, after awhile this could be repeated by fast firing and usually it would be #5 last in order to be shot but once was #4. It was suggested that the repeated recoil eventually loosened a poorly crimped ammo assemble, ergo the price.
Armscor never resolved this issue - now months ago.
To its credit, Armscor was a bit cleaner than Magtech ... and some others.
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Tags
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327, 357 magnum, colt, concealed, ejector, gunsmith, hornady, leather, lock, model 327, performance center, primer, remington, shroud, smith & wesson, smith and wesson, snubby, taurus, titanium, winchester |
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