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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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  #1  
Old 10-02-2011, 11:02 AM
dwever dwever is offline
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Default Easy question regarding cleaning PC 627

After 200 rounds through yesterday it took forever to get the carbon off the front of the cylinder as well as some other places. Is this because I am afraid to use anything stiffer than a hard toothbrush with Hopps No. 9? Particularly on the outside on the fine satin stainless steel finish but seemingly harder to clean than my dad's Model 60. I won't use Flitz.

What is the hardest brush you guys use? Certain bore brushes okay for extra scrub power? Does this unique finish mean certain considerations must be kept in mind?

I ran searches in the maitenace part of this forum so I apologize if this has been well covered. Our agency provides a pretty decent manual for our Glocks; love to find something similar given my growing affection for revolvers. Thanks!

Last edited by dwever; 10-02-2011 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:53 AM
ACM0302 ACM0302 is offline
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Default RE: 627 PC Cleaning

I shot a 150 rounds of .357 through my 627 PC 5' yesterday. I love this revolver!

For cleaning; I used Hoppes #9 and a brass Birchwood Casey brush on the tough deposits. I used the nylon brush and paper towel everywhere else. Now it looks just like new.

Adam
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Old 10-02-2011, 12:59 PM
dwever dwever is offline
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Thanks Adam. Anybody use Hoppe's Elite? Does it work better; safe?

Last edited by dwever; 10-02-2011 at 01:02 PM.
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Old 10-02-2011, 01:47 PM
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Default Shot my 627 yesterrday as well!

Despite being anal when it comes to gun cleanliness...I don't get too excited about the blackness on the front of the cylinder or under the topstrap....unless the gun is getting put away as a safe queen, or probably not going to be fired any time soon.

As long as it's not allowed to build up whats the issue? It's pretty much a cosmetic thing. A perfectly clean cyl face IS pretty...but all equally black rings on the face...isn't going to end the World.

I use Hoppes #9 and a GI toothbrush, or at worse one of the bronze toothbrushes when I'm REALLY cleaning.

FN in MT
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Old 10-02-2011, 04:21 PM
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Your answer is to use Birchwood Casey's lead removal towel. it will take the lead residue off easy.
Eric
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Old 10-02-2011, 05:06 PM
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The Birchwood towel is not abrasive like Flitz?

Does anyone happen to know if Hoppe's Elite is safe long term?
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Old 10-02-2011, 06:59 PM
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Hoppe's Elite is made by Pantheon Chemical, just like M Pro 7. The two cleaners are similar (if not identical). I've used M Pro 7 for four plus years without problem. I would expect similar results from Hoppe's Elite.
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Old 10-02-2011, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwever View Post
The Birchwood towel is not abrasive like Flitz?

Does anyone happen to know if Hoppe's Elite is safe long term?
I have been using them on all my stainless/matt finishes for years with no issues. I would no use them on blued guns.
Eric
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:14 PM
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I use MPro 7 and a bronze brush from Brownells. A little scrubbing takes most of it off. On my shooters, I dont worry about a little black carbon as long it is not built up.
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:55 PM
Shooting4life Shooting4life is offline
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I just leave it. Have not had a problem yet.
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:18 AM
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every blue moon or so I might use a treated cloth to remove the cylinder front stuff that doesn't come off with regular brush/solvent.

I've got a little can of that treated cotton stuff that shines up extra dirty metals.....it's an old standby, museums use it, forget the name. A little wad works wonders.

Although I've had it for years, and it works well, I use it so infrequently the name escapes me right now. Small can about 3 1/2" in diameter, blue lid (?) and blue print....
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Old 10-03-2011, 12:23 PM
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Sounds like Never-Dull; use it on my motorcycles.
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Old 10-03-2011, 05:34 PM
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I think Ed45 is right... Nevr-Dull. I used to use it on my brass buckles.
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Old 10-04-2011, 08:11 PM
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Whatever you use, I wouldn't put a lot of elbow grease into it as you'd probably be removing metal and compromising the gap between cylinder and forcing cone simply to keep your revolver looking "pretty."

In almost 50 years of revolver shooting, I've never worried about it. It's a "natural occurrence" when shooting wheelguns.
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Old 10-31-2011, 09:07 PM
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I am anal about the carbon on the front of the cylinder of my 629 and clean it off after every range trip. I have tried several concoctions and the best for me are using Permatex Gasket Remover or a Upper Engine and Fuel Injector Cleaner ( was called GM Top Engine Cleaner years ago ) from GM. Both work great but the Gasket Remover works the best I think. I apply a little Remover on the cylinder face with a Q-Tip and let it set for 15-30 min and then brush with a nylon brush. Wipe with a clean rag and done until the next time. I avoid the polishes which do have some amount of fine grit to do their jobs. Neither of the methods I use harms the stainless steel finish in any way but I do reoil before storing the gun.

Last edited by team sidewinder; 11-01-2011 at 09:47 AM.
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627, 629, brownells, idpa, model 60, model 625, solvent


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