What a shame.

The Lyman manual lists loads for bullets cast in Lyman molds. I've pointed out several times that ya just can't go by weight as many bullets have more of a shank and when seated , leave less room in the case than other bullets of the same weight , possibly resulting in a compressed charge. Even Lyman bullets of the same weight , but different design have different data. Medium to fast powders don't respond well to compressed loads.

I'm not seeing a 125gr .357 cast bullet in my Lyman book.

I have Lyman manuals 45,47 and 49 and the earlier ones show a 125 grain cast load, but in this case it was a load for a 110 grain bullet, then I substituted some 125 grain bullets. While the load shot fine in my Ruger 77/357 it was too hot for the Model 60. The point of this thread is to always follow proper reloading practices, and smith makes a stout revolver even in the J frame series.

stoopid costs money. thanks for the pix but all reloaders know how imortant load data is. glad you're ok

As a long time gunsmith I’ve seen lots of blown up revolvers but none had a cylinder split in half like that.

Virtually all were split only at the chamber that fired, and they all had the top strap blown off.

I also cannot accept an additional 15 grains of bullet weight would cause this, especially since cast bullets generate lower pressures than jacket ones.

Just doesn’t add up.

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Richard

Thank you for posting this. Accidents happen. It is a good reminder to us all.

He has written about the issues that his name has caused while flying with guns.

I think I have the answer.
You're a diligent and careful re-loader. No mistake should have been made, but the revolver suffered catastrophic damage. You pulled the remaining rounds and they were fine. You could have inspected the round fired in the rifle for excessive pressure, but you probably wouldn't have found anything. The load was not too hot as it was a published load under max. The 125gr cast bullet was not the problem as it shot fine in the rifle and you didn't notice an unusual blast or recoil compared to other rounds.
IMO, the remaining rounds you pulled were fine because they were not overcharged. I believe that you inadvertently double charged only 1 round, perhaps when you switched bullets. It got passed you. An honest mistake and not all that uncommon when a catastrophe happens.
The revolver blew up for a reason and there are no other variables to explain it (not .38 spec crud ring, not seating depth, not loading at or over max published loads, not barrel obstruction, etc).
You sound like a good guy and I'm glad you're ok.

I've only seen, in person, a revolver in this condition. It was a 4" Taurus that had been shot with 148 gr. wadcutter reloads and Bullseye powder. Nobody was injured and the person who made the reloads (a good buddy) swore up and down that it wasn't a double charge and I'm sure that he THOUGHT so. I have a S&W model 60-10 that I feel comfortable shooting with full house 158 gr. factory .357 ammo. I've shot a box of 50 factory loads out of it at one shooting session.

Guys, this post is 12+ years old and the OP hasn’t been online here for almost 2 years, so scolding him probably won’t help.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Glad that you weren't hurt. If you got any more of those loads, I'd like to give a few to my brother-in-law.

A double load of 2.7 Bullseye caused my Model 60 to do the same thing. I sent it to the factory with a BIG letter of it was my fault, and they allowed me a new gun at Police price. Now that was in the good old days, but I'm sure that wouldn't work today.

Better check your math. This post goes back to 2011.

Just a typo - it's fixed. And just for the record, technically 12 years 2+ years is it not?

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!

Yes, an old post, but one worth revisiting. My money is on a double charge in one case.

I load all my ammo on single stage presses. When I drop a powder charge into a case, I visually check the powder level in the case, then seat a bullet in it before placing it back into the cartridge tray. It's the best way I know of to avoid a double charge. Plus it reduces the number of times a case is handled during reloading. Think about it, you are not going to pick up a case with a bullet seated to drop a powder charge in it. But if you charge all of your cases before seating the bullet then it does become possible to double charge a case.

John

Another good way to avoid a double charge is to use a progressive press with a powder check die. I love my Dillon 650!

Looks like a quick fix with a hydraulic shop press and a new cylinder.