My no-lock 442 had the crack in the frame and I sent it in and they sent me back a new 442 with the lock in exchange....I sold it and bought a SP101.

Thanks for the post and the pic. I have been looking at J-frames for awhile now for CCW. I really had uneasy feelings about the J-fame and this comfirms my thoughts. I am currently looking for a small 2 to 3 inch barrel .357 for a CCW. Guess I'll forget about the J's for now. Really like the model 60's in SS. Good luck with S&W on the repair/replacement.

I think this only applies to the airweight versions, not the steel or SS ones.

There's no reason not to replace the gun with a no-lock gun since they're back in production. If they can't/won't, then give me credit for a 1911 Pro.

Just checked my 642-2 w/lock and it looks fine. Not sure how many rounds the guy that owned it before me put through it, I've not put many through it yet but I wonder if this is a common thing with the Airweight J-Frames. If it is I may have to trade it for a Ruger SP101 before it gets a crack. I really hate to hear about stuff like this since I really love this little gun for EDC/CCW but I also don't want something that may be a problem in the future.

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S&W M642-2,
ATI 1911a1, 4.25"

If you send your revolver/pistol in for warranty work you can receive it back directly because the firearm is yours. It does not have to go through an FFL to be returned to you. The only stipulation is it must be received by someone over 21 years old.

Ditto, I sent a Ruger GP100 in directly to the factory for warranty work many years ago and shipped it to them through UPS(can't use USPS because of Federal Law) and they shipped it back to me directly. Had to sign for the package and show ID that I was over 21 but other then that since the gun isn't being transfered to another owner it's not a problem to ship to the factory and back to you for repair.

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S&W M642-2,
ATI 1911a1, 4.25"

I had a Sig, where the frame rail separated from the frame sent back to me directly. Others, particularly Florida residents, have said their guns needed to be shipped back via an FFL. It appears that the shipping policy may be state specific.
OR, maybe it depends on who sent the gun originally. If an FFL sends it for you, the gunmaker sends it back to the FFL. S&W sends a return tag so no need to use an FFL.

In Pa. it must be sent to an FFL , if the frame was changed. Pa. says they dont have a firearm database... but everyone knows , that they do...

On a lighter note, lets not start a panic, over this problem. It happens few and far between. Would I own 15 Airlights and Airweights, if I didnt have faith in them?
I wouldnt let the "crack" stop me from buying one. S&W will fix it, "if" it does happen.

My understanding is that if they have to replace the frame with one that has a different serial number it's supposed to go through a FFL dealer.

Not in all states.

Correct, my Sig had a new frame with new number, it was shipped directly to me.
Oops forgot, same thing happened to a Colt SAA, frame replaced with new number,shipped directly to me.
There's no hard-fast rule here, it depends.

Sound like you have a frame problem Ladder!

This problem is only related to Airweight and Airlite frames this is NOT a problem with steel J frames like the Model 60 you like.

Ya think

I am looking forward to you getting it back! Please show us the results!

I can see it having to go through an FFL if there is a new serial number but other than that it shouldn't have to just for warranty work.

Maryland law says that firearms registration is voluntary, but that only works if you already own firarms as listed on the MSP restricted list and move here. ALL private sales MUST be through an FFL or you can go to an MSP Barrack and transfer through them, there's still the 7 day waiting period. NO FTF in the not so nfree state of maryland.

that is the case.

If it is the same gun and only repaired, it can be shipped to you, but if it is a replacement (which a cracked alloy frame will be) it goes to an FFL.

I sent my 442 in and they called to tell me that I had to have it shipped to an FFL, so since I am a FFL holder, I emailed them a copy and they sent it along.

I'm hoping to buy a 642 soon. This thread has shaken my confidence.

I hope everyone's J gets repaired to their satisfaction.

They get replaced with new guns, don't think they could repair them. Even Gorilla Glue wouldn't hold.
Have no fear, Smith makes an excellent product and I will continue to buy them. Their warranty policy is 2nd to none, imo.
I have 4 other Airweights, and they all look fine. Can something happen? Sure.

sorry to see your bad luck mike.... :-(

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SWCA#2208
KK4EMO

Anything made by man can break. Do not let this discourage you as this only happens every so often. When you look the gun over at the shop look down the sights and if the front sight is canted pass on it and look at another. The steel guns are better in that the extra weight helps on recoil and faster 2nd shot if you need it. JMO. Again, this is not an everyday issue!

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2 Timothy 1:7

JB Weld?

Mike ... I just spoke with S&W and was told that the over-torqued barrel is designed specifically for mall ninjas and gangsta cowboys to shoot their gats sideways.

Hopefully you'll get a great J-frame replacement in return. Thanks for posting this and keeping us on our toes about checking the Airweights periodically.

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I'm with the banned ...

Last I heard, the 642 is Smith & Wessons highest production gun. Thousands and thousands are sold every year. If one in every so many thousand cracks, I think that's acceptable. Remember, the gun will still shoot even if cracked so it's not like you get a click right when you need a bang.

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Centennial Every Day

I carried a Mod36 for years but about 10 years ago I upgrade to a 442. After reading this thread I quickly checked it and -- no cracking. Phew!

I only put about 10 to 20 rounds through it each month but I've been doing that for nearly ten years. I like it for pocket carry - even after adding some Pachmayr compact grips it's the easiest gun to conceal in business casual.

Thanks for the reassurances. I really want a no lock 642 to CC with.

Mines good, but I've only got about 100rds through it.

Just to make sure the bad doesn't overshadow the good I checked my Airweights and all is well.

Two M638's with about 200 rd's each through them and a M642 with somewhere around 800 rd's down the pipe.

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Ogy

My 642 has had a little over 1200 rounds through it in the year or so that I've had it and no cracks. The front sight is centered. I still check for it every time I clean it, though. It's just part of my normal inspection routine.

I wouldn't hesitate buying a second one...or a fourth one...or a sixteenth one...well, you get the idea.

I've always been a "steel is real" kind of guy when it comes to the small frame. I'll put up with the extra weight to avoid these issues. I've been packing a 60 since the 70s, and have considered an airweight from time to time, but couldn't get by the alloy part. Old fashioned (and old) I guess. :-)
Jim

I would say go ahead and buy one, it wouldn't stop me from buying another if I feel the need. Remember it's something mechanical, subject to failure like anything mechanical.
I own 5 Airweights, I like each one.

This is correct. Good advice! Especially if S&W actually provides a Fedex tag.

Spoke to a S&W customer rep/gunsmith about 5 minutes ago, a new gun(if warranted) will be sent back via an FFL, since a new serial number needs to be issued. He asked me what State I resided in before mentioning the shipping angle. I didn't ask, but the shipping policy appears to be a State by State basis.
Also the service rep mentioned the fact that a no lock gun couldn't be guaranteed, they ship what's available. Nothing I can do about that except sell the gun, if it comes with the lock, and buy what I want.

Update: Received a shipping label and getting ready to pack the 642 and call Fedex. So far so good, the label was sent pretty quickly.

ALSO: The gunsmith who I spoke to, with about 30 years experience debunked the torqued barrel theory. He said a torqued barrel would show a crack right away, not after 10 years. He said the problem is caused by a barrel that could be .00001(just a figure, you get the point)) of an inch bigger than spec, and too large for the aluminum frame. When the barrel is installed it stretches the aluminum a bit.

Sooooo....

Being that we get different stories from different gunsmiths at S&W, we should conclude that S&W doesn't really know what causes the cracks.

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Centennial Every Day

Ladder,

You guys made me look at my 642-2, respendent with it's still unused, intentionally or not, IL, now 2,000+ rounds and >5yr from new. A bit pocket carry worn - it is my 24/7 EDC - I carefully emptied it of it's +P 158gr LHPSWCs... and looked. Shocked - awed ("Awwwe... heck!") - I noticed a white line... under the barrel attachment... I touched it... it moved! I asked Elmer, my know-it-all flame point Siameese cat...



He identified it as his hair. Heart failure averted. My 642 is still fine. That is one weird cat.

Stainz

It could even be caused by shooting the gun too fast and heating it up. Since steel and aluminum have different expansion rates the barrel may "grow" faster then then aluminum and cause stress which would cause the crack. Bottom line, when you practice shooting take your time and don't heat up the barrel as much.

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S&W M642-2,
ATI 1911a1, 4.25"

That sounds reasonable; however, I wouldn't own any gun that I had to be concerned with the barrel heating up. Guess that's why I'll never own anything but steel.

With a lifetime repair/replace policy, I'll continue to own/buy Airweight guns, can't beat em' for carry.

Glad you have your shipping label and are in the process of getting your replacement.

In regards to the over torqued barrel its not something to be debugged, I have seen airweights and airlites come from the factory with cracks as severe as yours which is immediatley visible upon inspection, however, I have also seen airweights and airlites with partial fracturing that eventually will totally fracture that is not something one would notice unless specifically looked for. Although unlikely a oversized barrel could also be the culprit as the airweight barrels are steel and being threaded into an aluminum alloy frame, however the Airlite Aluminium-Scandium alloy frame exhibited the same exact frame fracture and utilizes a different barrel to frame assembly process. The "airlites" have a stainless steel barrel liner that threads into the Aluminum alloy barrel shroud as opposed to the frame and when "over torqued" cause the same fracture at the same location.

In my position I have seen more than my share of J frames and I work closely with S&W Factory Reps on a constant basis. My personal experience and the feedback directly recieved from the S&W factory is as described above.

As I stated this has been a issue S&W has known about since the no dash Airweights and Airlites where produced.

I would not hesitate to buy a Airweight or Airlite again, I had a prelock no dash 342PD with well over 1500 rounds of 135 Grain +P ammunition and no problems at all. These guns are designed for comfortable light weight carry and will last many many many years for the average person that practices regularly and as Ladder13 said are backed with a lifetime warranty.

Not to get too far off track here BUT it's funny that Ladder13 will still trust his Alloy J-Frame even after it getting a frame crack but won't trust his Sig P226 even though it's even more rare for a Sig semi-auto to mess up like his did.

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S&W M642-2,
ATI 1911a1, 4.25"

Then dont ever buy a Seecamp 380.. Larry says not to shoot more than 4 magazines full , without letting it cool.
Its all steel....

Well let's see, the rails fell off my Sig, rendering the gun useless. My J frame would likely keep firing alot more than I needed for the situation involved in.
Does that satisfy you incessant bashing of S&W products and cheerleading for Sig products??
I have 1 Sig, it failed, my failure rate is 100%.

Thanks for the explanation BigBoku. I'm awaiting the Fedex truck as I type. Also was advised by the smith at the factory that the gun needed to be shipped to an FFL since a new serial number would be issued. Looks like a trip to Richie's is on the horizon.

That's something I don't understand. The Frame Rails are machined as part of the frame, how did they "fall off"? I could see if it was a poly frame gun like a Glock where the frame rails are added to the frame but I just can't see how this could happen unless the slide/frame wasn't properly lubed.
Also, the U.S. Navy has been using the Sig P226 for years and years and never had any problems with them. Countless other LEA's have used Sig products and never had any problems with them.
Some folks could break a crowbar in a sandbox, doesn't mean the crowbar is bad, it's just the luck that some folks have.

Also, I'm not "bashing" S&W products at all, I've owned a couple dozen of their revolvers and all of em' have been nice guns. Heck, I've got one on my hip as I type this and I've got a line on another one(M64, 2") that I'd like to pick up so stop with saying that I like to "bash" S&W, that's hogwash.

I just think it's odd that you'll give one gun another chance but totally dismiss another that has a proven track record as a great firearm.

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S&W M642-2,
ATI 1911a1, 4.25"

This conversation is interesting and a good place for a couple of questions. Given weight is an issue for cc, how much heavier would an Airlite be if made out of SS? Would being made of SS eliminate the problem of cracking? I've shot a 642 alongside my 36 and I have to say those few ounces (in the 36) make for a more comfortable recoil, esp. with +P ammo.

Major thread drift...

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Centennial Every Day

By definition, it wouldn't be an Airweight. Made of stainless or carbon steel is would be a Model 640 or a Model 40. We're not talking about a ton of weight here in either case.

I have just over 500 rounds of 158 +P through my 638 which I purchased new in October 2011.

10 shot rapid fire strings for defensive practice is how I shoot it. So far nothing wrong. And I mean nothing.

If it developes a crack, and I don't catch it while cleaning it I guess the first assailant I shoot with it is in for a BIG surprise.

Not only will he have a .38 slug in his chest, but a fractured skull from that 1 7/8 chunk of barrel that conks him in the noggin.....

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Take your time..quickly.