Pitted forcing cone implications

TheNewGuy · #1 03-24-2016, 09:36 PM

Hi all,

I just took possession of a brand new S&W 686. As I was cleaning it tonight, I noticed that the forcing cone was either poorly machined or is experiencing pitting of some sort. As far as I know, this gun has only been fired three times at the factory, but the forcing cone looks to be in pretty rough shape. There is also a gash on the frame where the rear of the ejector rod rubs against it when the cylinder is opened. Is this typical of new 686s or does it look like this one slipped past quality control?

I'm trying to decide if I should send it in for repairs or maybe a new forcing cone. What do you all think? Honestly, if it's purely a cosmetic issue, I don't really mind. But my fear is that the rough forcing cone will lead to accelerated erosion and leading. Is there any merit to this?

Finally, I can't seem to remove the powder burns on the frame. I didn't try too hard, just some Ballistol and a shop towel, but should it be this hard to get the gun clean after only three shots? Maybe this is an indication that the forcing cone is causing issues? This is my first revolver, and first stainless gun of any sort, so please excuse my ignorance

Hapworth · #2 03-24-2016, 10:29 PM

Welcome to the forum, TheNewGuy.

As best as I can tell from the pics, there's some tool mark "chatter" on the barrel face, likely from a cutter that was near the end of its useful life, or an indelicate hand filed the barrel face to get proper barrel-to-cylinder gap.

The forcing cone is actually only the very gently angled inner circle of the barrel face. Though hard to tell from the available pics, it appears okay.

Chatter on the barrel face shouldn't be more than a cosmetic issue; chatter on the forcing cone can affect bullet performance.

I'm unconvinced I see any pitting, but I am concerned that I see rust inside the hand window in your first picture. If you know how, consider opening the revolver up and getting a look inside for cleaning and lubing, and making sure there isn't a rust problem (it has happened on new guns, albeit rarely).

The gash on the frame is perfectly normal rub wear from the extractor pin sliding against the blast shield.

Carbon scoring really stands out on stainless guns and there isn't much to be done about it. Ordinary solvent and a gentle brushing will get rid of some but not all. Best to accept it as a fact of life and learn to love the signs of honest use. Some really can't stand it and use aggressive methods that will get the blast marks out at the expense of removing a microns of metal. Your call. Overcleaning is particularly an issue because you can end up "polishing" the revolver beyond it's factory brushed look.

Make sure the forcing cone is smooth and even, and give your new revolver a proper cleaning and lubing (always a good thing to do whether it's new or new to you) and you should be in good shape.

TheNewGuy · #3 03-24-2016, 10:45 PM

Thanks for the info, Hapworth. That's exactly what I was hoping to hear. I'm going to take it out tomorrow and put some rounds through it. And I definitely plan on checking out the internals after I've done some research to make sure I know what I'm doing.

bigwheelzip · #4 03-24-2016, 10:58 PM

Howdy from South Carolina, and welcome to the forum.

Looks OK to me, except perhaps the previously mentioned potential rust. Looks like a slight burr on the forcing cone, but doubt it will bother anything. Put a few hundred rounds through it and the flame will smooth it out.

Odds are, if you shoot it, you will like it. If you have a concern, express it to customer service and let them give you a return ship tag.

Edmo · #5 03-24-2016, 11:16 PM

Congrats on your new revolver...

Please be careful and resist the urge to pry the side plate off if you go inside the action. Prying it off will bugger up the perfectly fitted seam between the side plate and the frame.

The preferred method to remove the side plate is after you have removed the screws, gently tap on the frame in the grip area with the handle of a screw driver. Hold you thumb on top of the side plate to secure it as it pops free.

Give us an update on how it shoots.

Edmo

andyo5 · #6 03-24-2016, 11:54 PM

The only unusual thing I saw was rust in the hand opening. If you are not familiar with S&W revolvers, I would not recommend removing the side plate unless you view a video or read an article on how to do this without damaging the frame. I also would wonder what the insides of the action looks like with respect to rust.

H Richard · #7 03-25-2016, 10:04 AM

I will add my caution to those who have said "Watch a video and/or read detailed instructions on how to open up a S&W). More damage has been done to revolvers by those who don't know how, or do not have the correct tools. The most important is correctly fitting screwdrivers. If you plan to disassemble it after the side plate is removed, you will need a rebound slide tool to do it easily. (Yes, it can be done with a phillips screwdriver, but not easily). I'm sure there are video's on line and one of the best is Jerry Miculek's "Trigger Job" as he walks you through every step. Never pry anything, and if you think you have to "force" something "stop" what you are doing and get further instruction.

MetalMan · #8 03-25-2016, 10:34 AM

For cleaning of the powder burn marks on the cylinder face, I have found that Lead Away patches work very well on stainless steel guns (but caution that these are NOT to be used on a blued gun!!).

Hoppes 9 or MPro7 and an old toothbrush will also do the trick..

OKFC05 · #9 03-25-2016, 10:54 AM

Greetings from an old revolver shooter. From your pictures, I can't see anything unusual except the brown whatever inside the hand window: doubt it is rust, might be dab of grease?

Free advice: Get a cleaning rod with brass brush and jag, brass toothbrush, good powder solvent (Hoppes #9 is still as good as any), some gun grease and some Remoil.

This is how I clean my competition revolvers:
1. With brush on rod, dip brush in solvent and push through barrel several times, NEVER REVERSE INSIDE BARREL.
2. Open cylinder and give same treatment to each chamber.
3. Take brass toothbrush and brush both ends of barrel and the front of the cylinder. Scrub off all that will come off. You will have a stain on the front of the cylinder that does no harm and is self limiting.
4. Take rags and patches and wipe out barrel, chambers, outside of gun. Be sure and clean under star.
5. Put a TOUCH of grease on both ends of the ejector rod, on the star where the hand pushes, and on the cylinder stop. Close the gun, cock the hammer, and put one drop of Remoil at the bottom front of the hammer. Cycle the gun 6 times, give it a final wipe, you're ready for the range.

My advice is DON'T try to take it apart any further just yet. I had a gunsmith mentor show me just the right way, and it must be done correctly to avoid damage. Even my competition revolver only gets opened once a year, after 10-12000 rounds.

There is no need to pour lubricant into the revolver, and spraying anything inside is a desperation act to get it working until it can be opened, cleaned, and properly lubed where it needs it.

99tdr · #10 03-25-2016, 11:10 AM

For the powder burns on my SS Rugers I use Remington 40-X Bore Cleaner. Works great..

For the pitted forcing cone, when I sent my K19 in to S&W to be restored, they said it was fine and serviceable. I myself can't judge yours for you, but if you have any doubt, cant hurt to let S&W give it a once over. They did a great job on my K19.

kaaskop49 · #11 03-25-2016, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OKFC05

Greetings from an old revolver shooter. From your pictures, I can't see anything unusual except the brown whatever inside the hand window: doubt it is rust, might be dab of grease?

Free advice: Get a cleaning rod with brass brush and jag, brass toothbrush, good powder solvent (Hoppes #9 is still as good as any), some gun grease and some Remoil.

This is how I clean my competition revolvers:
1. With brush on rod, dip brush in solvent and push through barrel several times, NEVER REVERSE INSIDE BARREL.
2. Open cylinder and give same treatment to each chamber.
3. Take brass toothbrush and brush both ends of barrel and the front of the cylinder. Scrub off all that will come off. You will have a stain on the front of the cylinder that does no harm and is self limiting.
4. Take rags and patches and wipe out barrel, chambers, outside of gun. Be sure and clean under star.
5. Put a TOUCH of grease on both ends of the ejector rod, on the star where the hand pushes, and on the cylinder stop. Close the gun, cock the hammer, and put one drop of Remoil at the bottom front of the hammer. Cycle the gun 6 times, give it a final wipe, you're ready for the range.

My advice is DON'T try to take it apart any further just yet. I had a gunsmith mentor show me just the right way, and it must be done correctly to avoid damage. Even my competition revolver only gets opened once a year, after 10-12000 rounds.

There is no need to pour lubricant into the revolver, and spraying anything inside is a desperation act to get it working until it can be opened, cleaned, and properly lubed where it needs it.

^^^^What he said! Solid advice. Should be posted as an informational "skinny" here! Frankly, as to the internals, if you have concerns, I always suggest, take the gun to a qualified 'smith and have the 'smith give you the "inside dope" on the gun. It'll cost a few bucks, but is well worth it, IMO.

SandSpider · #12 03-25-2016, 12:37 PM

The barrel end may be acceptable by S&W standards (some of mine look like that), but I sure wish they'd take that minimal extra step of deburring it. As it is, it catches fabric fibers when you try to clean it, and it just looks low quality to me.

For removing powder burns on the face of the cylinder, I use Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish, sparingly, on a Q-tip. I do the same for the forcing cone area/top strap. That's when you'll notice that ragged barrel end is a nuisance.

Taipan01 · #13 03-25-2016, 01:35 PM

As stated, I'd be a little more concerned if that is rust in the hand area and also it looks like there is some in the screw well above the trigger, it could just be grease.

For your cylinder face on stainless, having the stain will not effect performance. Occasionally, every few years, I may clean mine off using mothers billet polish. It's a bit more aggressive for use with stainless over the Aluminum polish. I just go slow using a nice soft cotton rag. It's not something you want to do often. I also use it on high polished stainless like Vaqueros. It really sets a deep luster into them.