Classic Revolvers

[Gun K1n6]

Purchased a new 586-8 Classic Revolver last week. Transferred on Saturday morning and sent back to S&W on Saturday afternoon.
Has anyone dealt with the blast marks on the outside of the cylinder caused by the rear sight screw being too short on the inside of the top rib?
What about a bluing issue when you wipe the gun down you remove a rust colored substance and never get the blue to polish spot-free?

[Bullet Bob]

Karnak knows the answer that will be written on the work order returned with your 586:

"Received gun. Cleaned it."

Maybe not, I used to have a teenage son, so I'm aware I don't know everything.

Powder/lead marks on the outside of .357 cylinders seem normal to me, even on old guns. The "rust colored substance" could be factory preservative of some type, but it's hard to know for sure.

[bigwheelzip]

The blast is normal for that design. This has come up here recently, and I think there were some suggestions to help with it.

Be careful which products you use on the blueing. Might be causing the finish issues.

Others will probably be along with more details.

[DwayneV]

My S&W model 27-9 had the same short sight base screw and blast marks on the cylinder. This minor issue is easily corrected.

Order a ten-pack of Forster Slotted Oval .200" Diameter Head Screws 6-48, Blue from MidwayUSA, $6.39.

Forster Slotted Oval .200 Diameter Head Screws 6-48 Blue

Remove the existing S&W rear sight screw. The head of the Forster screw is slightly larger than the S&W screw. Spin the screw in a drill chuck and turn down and shape the head with a small file to match the S&W screw.

Trim the screw length to fit the end flush to the inside surface of the frame top strap. Trimming and trying the length of the screw is easier if the cylinder is removed. Remove the yoke retaining screw with a fitted screwdriver and the cylinder/yoke assembly will slide out.

Polish the screw head with 400 grit sand paper. Heat the screw in an open flame of a propane torch or gas stove a few seconds for it to turn blue. Coat the screw with gun oil and assemble the rear sight. Install the cylinder/yoke assembly. You are done.

[Dave T]

At the risk of offending some folks, this is further proof there is nothing "classic" about the new, current Classic S&Ws. If you really want a classic S&W, save up your hard earned money and buy an original.

My $.02 worth, YMMV, etc.,

Dave

[kas9412]

I have read in other posts in this forum that Smith recommends cleaners that are free of ammonia, as this substance can damage the finish on newer, blued guns. So among others, you should avoid Hoppe's No. 9.

Good luck with your new revolver! I personally prefer blue to any other finish!