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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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  #1  
Old 03-27-2012, 02:33 PM
OldBlood OldBlood is offline
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64 redo 009.jpg

64 redo 006.jpgI bought this old (1994) 64-5 a couple of weeks ago, stripped it and buffed it up, but wasn't pleased with the results. the hammer and trigger didn't look case hardened anymore, just had a sort of old cresent wrench pantina. So I took her completely apart and did a second run over the gun and included the hammer/ trigger. Had to use some 600/ 1200 wet/dry on the scratches and most came out. Im' pleased with the results' what do you guys think?
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Old 03-27-2012, 02:38 PM
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Looks darn near nickel. Very pretty.
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Old 03-27-2012, 02:51 PM
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She looks beautiful! Better than brand new. You did a great job. Now the real question is whether she is too pretty to take out to the range.
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Old 03-27-2012, 02:54 PM
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DAAAAMN, OldBlood ! ! ! You did a FANTASTIC job. IF you did not already do so--hit it with a coat of Mother's Billet Polish and a microfiber cloth.
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Old 03-27-2012, 02:55 PM
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Polished hammer/trigger, like?, don't like? Here's a picture when I started.
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Old 03-27-2012, 03:03 PM
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She's a beauty!

You do nice work. Enjoy that beautiful 64. Regards 18DAI
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Old 03-27-2012, 03:10 PM
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Stunning !
How about a little step by step tutorial?

Do you wet sand? use polishing compound ? buffing wheel?
Are the hammer trigger now in the raw?
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Old 03-27-2012, 03:34 PM
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Great polishing job. Guess the trigger and hammer were solid SS, not the flash-chrome ones?

And, the black Altamonts really pop on a nice SS gun!
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  #9  
Old 03-27-2012, 03:47 PM
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I use a hard cloth polishing wheel on my 6" grinder and stainless compound. First I strip the gun, "The S&W Revolver" by Kuhnhausen. then sand any scratches with 600 then 1200 wet/dry using wd40. not water. Then I buff till I like what I see. If you aren't use to power tools. I'd stay away from this. If you are. then you know about safety stuff, face shield. leather gloves help, parts get warm. I keep an old carpet on the floor in front of my bench, just in case something gets away from me. Don't push hard on the wheel, use enough compound and let it do the work. Never present an edge against the rotation of the wheel, piece will go flying. maybe at you! Hold on tight to small parts. they are hard to find if they get airborne. Cover any parts you don't what shiny with duck tape if you can't remove them. I find it very satisfying to see dull metal turn shiny. Probably destoying the "collector" value of my stainless guns , but I didn't buy them for that anyway. In this case it's an old cop gun, And I DO shoot them after the shine goes on. Why not? If I think of more info, I'll post it. Bought the wheel and compound at Ace Hrdw. Ask questions, I'll try to answer them. Great hobby.
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Old 03-27-2012, 03:49 PM
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Hammer/ Trigger are MIM, so they are bare steel now. I guess.
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Old 03-27-2012, 04:33 PM
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Looks great...I will be sending a couple of mine to be shined like that.
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Old 03-27-2012, 04:40 PM
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I see the firing pin on the hammer. That means it is a forged steel part.

Despite the rantings of the MIM defenders, there are no MIM hammers with firing pins. MIM isn't strong enough. Regards 18DAI
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Old 03-27-2012, 04:57 PM
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Great looking 64!!
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:47 PM
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Man, that looks incredible! Awesome job....you taking orders?
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Old 03-27-2012, 08:34 PM
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Thou shalt not covet but I surely do. Beautiful
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Old 03-27-2012, 08:54 PM
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I just got my 64-6 and am contemplating doing the same.
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Old 03-27-2012, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18DAI View Post
I see the firing pin on the hammer. That means it is a forged steel part.
So is the trigger, look at the back of it.
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Old 03-27-2012, 09:40 PM
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So you guys are saying the hammer/trigger are forged. I wasn't sure. Forged is good for me. How do you tell? Does this view help any? ThanksJust looked closely at the photo, can't see much of the trigger. Both pieces had extensive tool marks, something I thought Mim was supposed to eliminate.
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Last edited by OldBlood; 03-27-2012 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:11 AM
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Very nice job! I have a 64-5 LE trade-in and was wondering what l wanted to do with it. You've really set the bar high! Thank you for sharing your very successful work.

Blessings,
Hog
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Old 03-28-2012, 05:21 AM
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got one a few years ago in about the same shape, but with a damaged crown too. it was a sq butt, but got rounded when i cut the barrel back, polished it up and now it's my truck gun. lee
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Old 03-28-2012, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldBlood View Post
Attachment 70780

Attachment 70781I bought this old (1994) 64-5 a couple of weeks ago, stripped it and buffed it up, but wasn't pleased with the results. the hammer and trigger didn't look case hardened anymore, just had a sort of old cresent wrench pantina. So I took her completely apart and did a second run over the gun and included the hammer/ trigger. Had to use some 600/ 1200 wet/dry on the scratches and most came out. Im' pleased with the results' what do you guys think?
You can use Kasenit to redo the case hardening. Google is your friend.
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldBlood View Post
So you guys are saying the hammer/trigger are forged. I wasn't sure. Forged is good for me. How do you tell? Does this view help any? ThanksJust looked closely at the photo, can't see much of the trigger. Both pieces had extensive tool marks, something I thought Mim was supposed to eliminate.
As far as I know, all MIM hammers have the firing pin mounted on the frame, not on the hammer. MIM triggers have a groove in the back, while forged triggers are solid.
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  #23  
Old 03-28-2012, 08:10 AM
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Lee Barner, That is my next project! to chop one like you did. Did you do the barrel or have someone shorten it for you. Nice grips. I bought some Sq butts too, but I'll leave those Sq.Like the hammer.Neat job on the frt. site dovetail.Any more picture?

Last edited by OldBlood; 03-28-2012 at 08:13 AM.
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:12 AM
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Very nice S&W model 64 you did a nice job restoring it.
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deanodog View Post
Looks great...I will be sending a couple of mine to be shined like that.
Me too! I have it's brother!!



BW
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:40 AM
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I think you need to consider a second career as a reconditioner for us. We do get discounts, right? Very sweet work.
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelgun1958 View Post
You can use Kasenit to redo the case hardening. Google is your friend.
"Will not leave the fine mottled blue but does give metal a pleasing gray color."

Dixie Gun Works muzzleloading, blackpowder and rare antique gun supplies.




This is the only product I have found reviews that say it leaves at least some of the colors from case hardening finishing:

Cherry Red - instant case hardening compound (5 lb. pail)

I haven't tried it yet but I plan to at some point.
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:08 AM
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OB,
You should be proud that 64's a beauty!
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