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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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  #1  
Old 11-18-2010, 06:44 PM
crackedwindshield crackedwindshield is offline
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Default 686 light strikes

I got a 7 shot -4 model and the previous owner had backed the mainspring screw out most of the way and the trigger felt really light and nice. I got a light strike and took the grips off to find it backed out. I screwed it "most" of the way in and tried it again probably 9 fired and the 10th one another light strike. Would replacing the spring with a new one take care of my mistrust of the pistol or could he have tweaked something else that I need to replace to feel good about this pistol.Even with the screw all the way in it still strikes lighter than say a -3 but it did make the hammer hit much harded than previously.I had shot probably 100 rds through it 2 years ago without a hitch and now this....
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Old 11-18-2010, 07:30 PM
7shooter 7shooter is offline
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There is a longer strain screw that you can buy. Another quick fix which a retired revolver loving cop told me about is to place a spent primer under the end of the strain screw and then screw it in as tight as possible. It worked.
Also check and see if the mainspring has a rib in it. I had a model 64 that had been worked on by the previous owner. It had a ribbed spring which I think was a lighter Wolff spring. I had my gun smith replace it with a stock spring and the light hits stopped.
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Old 11-18-2010, 07:34 PM
Wayne M Wayne M is offline
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Turn the screw in tight and see if that fixes the problem; that's the way it was designed to be used. A new strain screw and a new mainspring won't cost much from Smith if you need them. The factory parts are as good as any and less expensive than most.
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Old 11-19-2010, 11:28 AM
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For reliability, never mess with the original mainspring and screw. Other parts yes, but never these.
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Old 11-19-2010, 12:31 PM
crackedwindshield crackedwindshield is offline
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I will get a new spring and maybe a new screw if it ever fails again its gone. Is there anything else someone prior may have messed with that I could replace to prevent light strikes? So I can get it all in one order. Thanks.
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Old 11-19-2010, 12:43 PM
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Well, make sure all is clean under the extractor, this can soften the fireing pin strike by the force of the fireing pin strike trying to seat the extractor. If you are shooting reloads my 586 plus and 22-4 with the frame mounted fireing pins had the same problems until I started cleaning the primer pockets and ensureing a fully seated primer. The first strike would seat the primer and the second strike would fire it. Hope this helps!
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Old 04-25-2012, 12:45 PM
joehotpiscopo joehotpiscopo is offline
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Hi everyone. New member, first post.

I have recently acquired a older S&W 686-2, 4' barrel. Great revolver and scary accurate. However, I have been seeing the light strikes as well. I have been scouring the forums for resolution and have taken the revolver completely apart, cleaned it thoroughly, checked that the main spring strain screw is tight and everything suggested here.

I finally looked up a photo of an unaltered, factory strain screw and compared it mine.

EUREKA!! Some misguided individual had ground down the rounded screw end and it was flat and sharp.

Now I know what do to correct the light strike issue.

Thanks for all the info you all provided.

Cheers!
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Old 04-25-2012, 07:36 PM
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Just today, after reading this post, I took my 686 (no dash) to the range and...got 3 mis-fires out of 80 rounds due to light strikes. Sure enough, the strain screw had backed out more than a whole turn. I tightened it down and will take it back to the range. That should do it, but if it comes loose again I will apply some loctite to the screw.

BTW, I'm still banging away with this gun, trying to induce the failure that was the cause of the recall. No (M) and so far, so good.
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  #9  
Old 04-26-2012, 06:37 AM
joehotpiscopo joehotpiscopo is offline
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Wow, it is extremely difficult to find an unaltered, factory strain screw for a 686-2 square-butt L-frame. No one seems to have them. A local gun store suggested I try using a small piece of plastic or leather at the contact point between the screw and the spring to see if that corrects the light strikes. Guess I'll do that and will update when I find out what happens...
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  #10  
Old 04-26-2012, 06:51 AM
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joe, try Brownell's. I don't know if they have that part or not. Numrich?
I have a 586, and I really like everything about it. Good luck, and WELCOME to the FORUM! Bob
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Old 04-26-2012, 07:11 AM
joehotpiscopo joehotpiscopo is offline
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Thanks Bob. I've tried Brownell's, Midway-USA, E-Gunparts.com and several others. Since they stopped making many square-butt L-Frames, they're REALLY hard to come by.

I was in a bidding war with some jackass on e-bay but I'm not ready to pay $20 for a single screw (yet)

Anyone know if a strain screw for a round-butt will work on my 686-2?
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Old 04-26-2012, 04:03 PM
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I am no expert, but would have to say yes.
Even with inflation, I wouldn't pay $20 for a screw. You will find 1! Bob
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Old 04-26-2012, 04:06 PM
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joe, silly question, but did you try Smith? Bob
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Old 04-26-2012, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joehotpiscopo View Post
Thanks Bob. I've tried Brownell's, Midway-USA, E-Gunparts.com and several others. Since they stopped making many square-butt L-Frames, they're REALLY hard to come by.

I was in a bidding war with some jackass on e-bay but I'm not ready to pay $20 for a single screw (yet)

Anyone know if a strain screw for a round-butt will work on my 686-2?
I'm looking at my S&W parts book and the strain screw part numbers for SB and RB are different for the L-Frame.
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Old 04-26-2012, 09:07 PM
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Numrich has the screw for $3.15

Strain Screw, Square Butt
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Old 04-27-2012, 07:05 AM
joehotpiscopo joehotpiscopo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEG View Post
Numrich has the screw for $3.15

Strain Screw, Square Butt
Holy cow, how did I miss that?? Thanks man!!
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