After getting back from the range today I went downstairs to clean my new 586 classic and noticed that there were some pretty severe burn marks around the front of the cylinder. It lines up with the small gap at the top of the frame so I am assuming it's burning marks and my Hoppes #9 is doing nothing to get rid of it. This is my first blued gun as well as my first revolver so maybe this is just normal but I've only shot a total of 300 rounds through this gun and this seems a little early to see this but I could be totally wrong.

I did shoot some Winchester 38 specials which were EXTREMELY dirty and some hand loads that had a pretty good flash but were still light for 357 magnum loads.

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586 cylinder.jpg (250.8 KB, 472 views)

I think I would call S&W customer service.

Did you shoot lead? Looks like it is spitting a bit. Try Brasso on the marks. If it is powder it will come off quickly and easily with a cotton rag. If it is lead, might be time to call the factory.

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Go big or stay home

Not a burn mark only a deposit of lead and powdetr residue. Normal situation from shooting lead bullets at greater than ca 800 fps. What load were you using?
Use a bronze brush to help remove. You should have paid attention and noticed the lead build up. It can be avoided by rubbing a patch with some Hoppes#9 to remove the lead before it builds up the the point shown on your photo.
You can see the same type of lead/powder residue deposits when you shoot 22LR HV amo with plain lead bullet (ie no copper/brass wash) in 22 revolvers.

I was shooting HSM Custom plated bullets since my range doesn't let me shoot lead only. I'll see if Brasso is something I can find locally and give it a shot. Also I was wondering if Flitz might help as I have heard it's great on blued guns.

sir, as others have posted you don't have burn marks on the cylinder but you do have what appears to be a lead/carrbon build up. If normal cleaning does not remove this try a Lead-a-way cloth. Hoppes and several other companies makes these. Remember you HAVE to be very CAREFUL to only use these on the lead/carbon spots as they can remove blued finish if you are not careful...

I would give Flitz a try as I've used it to remove cylinder burn rings with great success on both blued and stainless revolvers without harming the finish. However, I'd also note what other posters mentioned about the possibility of your revolver being out of time and spitting lead.

How can you tell if your revolver is out of time?

Went to the store and purchased both Flitz and a lead away cloth to see if I can get ride of or reduce these marks. S&W recommended the lead away cloth just as others have here so when I get home tonight I'll give it a try. In regards to what type of load I was shooting, I was using plated bullets and it sounds like anything over 1200fps is not recommended as it can destroy the plating. One of my hand loads was under that as I used lead bullet data for loading but I also did a load that was a bit hotter. This was still below jacked data but it's possible it was moving fast enough to shed the plating. The barrel was pretty free of lead when I cleaned it, however, so I'm not sure why this trip had such a huge impact versus my last one. Guess this is all part of the learning process.

If you use the Lead Away cloth you will likely remove the bluing.

I take a cleaning patch soaked in solvent to clean and remove powder and lead from the front of the cylinder. I don't worry or try to remove all of it as long as it doesn't affect the function of the gun. The next time I shoot it the face of cylinder will just get dirty again.

reminder,you must be very careful when using ANY abrasive or chemically treated cloth, such as the Lead Away,as noted above they can and will remove the bluing from a guns surface........suggest if you do want to use the Lead Away, first remove the cylinder from the gun, the less you handle the gun, the chemicals on the cloth will transfer to your other hand ( fingers) and you will be rubbing all around the outside of the gun, and on its surfaces..........use the cloth ONLY on the face of the cylinder, use cotton gloves or a piece of cloth to hold and rotate the cylinder as you go around the face, this will reduce the odds of you getting anything on the rest (outside) of the cylinder, or the rest of the gun.......we do use them for stubborn jobs but learned LONG ago to use "care" in handling them on blued finish guns.........

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dan
NRA Benefactor,PMA

I'm going to start with flitz and see how that does to remove the spots. If that isn't effective then I will use the lead away cloth. Thanks everyone for the heads up to how it can impact my finish. I'll be honest, my initial impression of blued guns were that they were more durable and resistant to rust and other things. The more I learn the more I realize they need more care then stainless steel.

I had nearly identical marks on my 625 JM. I tried several products mentioned here but nothing worked. I heard about the lead away cloths and that thing did wonders. It removed every singe piece of the markings with very little effort. It proved to be a great product at a very reasonable price.

just normal lead deposits. use some regular hoppes # 9 to soak on it overnight. do not use lead away on a blued firearm ! it will remove the bluing!

Well, Flitz turned out to be the ticket! Hoppes #9 didn't seem to do anything but this stuff worked like a charm and it didn't hurt my bluing. Going back to the store to return the lead away cloth!

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586 cylinder with flitz.jpg (285.4 KB, 193 views)

Carbon steel under some conditions can be MORE wear resistant then stainless. By this I mean actual physical wear and tear, not cosmetic.

Bluing is almost useless as a rust preventative finish. It looks great but DOES require almost constant attention.

The lead deposits on the cylinder face are from vaporized lead re- solidifying on the cylinder. The lead away cloth will absolutely remove both the lead deposits and the bluing. These are only safe on stainless steel guns.

Stainless is much more rust resistant than blued carbon steel but the notion that a blued gun will immediately turn into orange iron oxide when exposed to moisture is absolutely false. The do need oil or a good coat of non-abrasive wax to protect the finish.

Bruce

Mine has these exact same marks. Glad to hear you can get them off, though it never bothered me..