Saw a 4" 617 10 shot for sale. It was in the case latch side down so I couldn't tell if it had the IL or not. At 4" I think it would be a great carry piece but I already have a 4" 686 which has to be about the same weight and is probably more practical for me. If the 617 were 6" I could see it as a more practical shooter with the longer sight plane so the question is carry or shooter. How popular is the 4" vs. the 6" in the 617 and amongst you smith fanatics? 4" or 6"? What say thee?

4" when you talk about a full lug .22

6" if no lug

6" full lug is too front heavy for me.

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My sgntr is mor thn 30 chrctrs

I have the 4" to which I added square butt grips. Wouldn't own a 6". Too much unnecessary metal in the barrel and lug. For 6" er's I prefer my 17's. Mine shoots as good as any of my other Smith 22's

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S&W Accumulator

I'm fortunate to own both in the 10 shot, 617-4 variation. I'd say the 4" is definitely my favorite of the two due to the better balance and it's no less accurate than the 6". Most people prefer the 4" for these same reasons. If the price was right, I'd suggest you pick that one up.

To the trained eye, you can tell the lock guns from the prelock guns due to the different frame profile in the area of the hammer. They bumped out the frame in this area to make room for the lock and the flag.

Good information and advice so far. I've been keeping my eyes open for a 22 wheel gun but most of what I've seen are 6" and I haven't jumped on them for reasons some of which you've mentioned.

I like mine. 4" 617 no dash, 6-shot.

On newer guns like the 617 with a full lug barrel I prefer the 4", on older guns like the K-22/Model 17 with a no lug barrel I prefer the 6". These combinations just balance better for me. I also prefer the 6 shot version because it matches up well with my centerfire revolvers. A 6 shot, 4" 617 is a great companion gun for a 4" 686...

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	686Case.JPG (168.6 KB, 57 views)

I have both a 6 inch no dash and a 4 inch no dash 617 6 shot and I like them both but if I could only keep one it would be the 4 inch because it's the most accurate.

If I had a 586/686 4inch the 617 4 inch would be the perfect practice revolver because the weight and balance isn't all that different and it's cheap to shoot.
617 no dash 4inch

617 no dash 6 inch

Don't forget that the 17 and 617 are the heaviest of the K-frames because the barrel bore is the smallest, thus there is more metal in one than any other caliber. I agree with most of the others - my 4" 617-0 seems more "hand-friendly" than my 6", which feels very muzzle-heavy.

Ed

I love my 4" 617-6, bought new four years ago at a LGS for $609. I added the green HiViz SW617, Ahrends cocobolo retro target grips, some Wolff springs and an adjustable replacement Allen headed strain screw, and, for the ultimate in range fun, the DS-10 Speedloader and loading baseplate. The latter transformed the 617 from just a lot of fun at the range to the most fun at the range status. I honestly think I could be happy with just the 4" 617.



Regrets? Yep - one. Why did I wait until I was sixty to buy this revolver? Yeah, I had to have the loudenboomer/wrist snappers first. This gun is fun - and the squared grip base helps you forget that even the 4" 617 is a bit muzzle heavy. I keep speedloaders loaded with SD ammo for all of my revolvers. My 617 is no different - there is a DS-10 loaded with CCI Stingers ready for emergency use, too. Obviously, the IL doesn't bother me. Ten years of buying IL-equipped new S&Ws has proven it's inclusion to be inconsequental, even if it is unsightly.

Stainz

PS No doubt a better bullseye shooter with the OEM Patridge style sight, the HiViz helps my plinking efficiency ('Mature' eyes!).

If you look at post 8 and 10 and note the difference in the frame contour and size in the cylinder latch region, you'll notice the later one with the lock is different/larger. Also, the later version will have "Smith & Wesson" stamped on the right barrel, and the older ones will usually have ".22 Long Rifle CTG".

With the steel full-lug barrel and less metal removed than with a .357, the 6" 617 is really muzzle-heavy, as others mentioned.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

I never cease to be amazed at the 617 and K-22 popularity. These have always been my main focus and are great revolvers. I know others feel the same way, since you see very few show up used in gun shops. They have a strong and well deserved following.

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J. Mark McCarver

617-4

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Sure you did

M-17-7 4" "Pinto", it has real nice balance. Rare one, only 14 made.

I got back there and had a chance to look at it. It's a late model with the wart but in lieu of not having seen a used 4" since who laid the rails, I'm going in tomorrow when the one guy I know works and let him work a little magic on me to force me to take it home

Stainz-how hard was it to change out the front sight???

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Forum consigliere

I've got a 6" blue 10 shot 17 in trade many years ago and absolutely love it. I guess it depends on what you're getting it for. After shooting mine, my buddy got a 4" 10shot 617 to pack along also. Both about the same accuracy wise, but I tend to shoot better with mine at distance, mostly due to the increased sight radius I'd guess. If it was a hunting gun, then I'd stick with the 6" - if it's just for packing around, hiking, plinking and the occasional hunt when you stumble on something, then maybe the 4". I haven't weighed them side by side, but for some reason my blued 6" feels lighter than his 4" stainless....

I have 617-4, four inch, when I recieved it, it was a ten-shot. It was out of time and had lots of lead build-up, clearly not taken care of.

I shipped it back to S&W and had them install a six-shot cylinder. When I recieved it back it was still out of time, so off it went again. The next time I got it back it was just right.

Since then it has had thousands of rounds through it. I am so impressed with its accuracy and just how much fun it is. Anytime I go shooting, it does too.

My only gripe is the round butt frame, but I handle that with some round to square grips.

It's a pain. Not difficult, but definitely a pain. If I had a local smith I knew did good work I'd pay they extra $20 to have them do it. Though it's not worth the shipping there and back just for the sight.

With better tools and a steady hand, it'd be less hassle.

Get the SDM Super Sights. Great sights, and have the square steel top, too. If you do go this route you likely need to swap out the rear sight blade (just the blade), which is very easy and cheap, too. Just get the same blade on as on the 686. Turn it backwards for an all black rear, which is definitely the way to go.

I say 8 3/8"!


Good squirrel hunting revolver.

But depending on the venue, 6" and 4" are good, too.


Lock? Eh, I just ignore it.

Jaymoore, It looks like you've covered all the bases! Nice set of 22's.

A recent sermon at church commanding us to take care of orphans and widows was reasoning enough for me to bring that orphaned 4" home yesterday. It now has a comfortable home with it's big brothers a 629 and a 686. I told the salesman he needed to make me buy it so he just slides the paperwork in front of me and says, "Start filling it out". Couldn't argue with his logic and I have no buyers remorse whatsoever.

I somehow managed to skip right over 6 inch barrels...my 18 is a 4" and my 17 is an 8 3/8 inch. But when I saw a good deal on a 617 no-dash with 4" barrel I bought it and its a favorite shooter. I still shoot the first handgun I bought, which was a 6" 686 when they were first released, and I like it a lot. But in the 617, I think if I had a choice tomorrow, I'd go with a 4".

Mind if I reply to this?

You need to be very, very, very careful, and totally un-rushed, to perform this procedure.

First, either buy the correct drift punch from a gun supply, or do as I did.....many moons ago, I bought the smallest drift punch that Craftsman Tool carries, and stoned it to the proper size.

Bench grinders are usually too coarse and rough for this job, however, if You have a small and finer bench grinder/wheel, that'll git 'er done.

Second, buy a small plastic and brass tipped jeweler's hammer, (Harbor Freight $7).

Next, take a small piece of clean wood or plywood, drill a 1/8" hole near the edge for the sight pin to move into, when driving the sight pin.
Be sure to pad the wood with some soft leather, jean, or felt type fabric.

I always use some good quality masking tape to protect the entire front sight area, just in case the punch slips.

It's VERY important to support that narrow strip of upper barrel rib where the pin is installed, while driving it out & back in, using the above mentioned piece of wood.
Use the brass tip to drive the punch, only!

After the pin is out, remove the factory blade 'carefully' using that soft plastic tip, on that jeweler's hammer.
I cannot stress enough, to cover the revolver's front sight area of the barrel, with protective tape.

In some cases, You'll need a piece of protective leather, and a small ignition type pliers to grasp and dislodge the original front sight.
Please, don't destroy that original blade....be patient!

To drill the new sight blade, what I usually do, is solidly fit the new sight blade into the blade recess, using that soft plastic tip jeweler's hammer.
(You may need to do a small stoning job on the new blade dovetail, if it's too thick to fit snugly, yet fairly easily into that recess)

Next, I chuck a drill bit of smaller diameter than the pin's hole (#58 or #59 number bit) into a dremel moto-tool, and carefully mark the sight blade, using the dremel & smaller bit.

Remove the sight, clamp it to the wood block, using a piece of leather to protect it, then drill the sight blade using that same small bit and the Dremel.
Progressively work up to the correctly sized number drill bit, which I'm thinking is a size #54.

Those plastic overmolded sights (HiViz) are easily distorted by heat if the drill bit is not high quality steel, and very sharp.
IMO, the SDM sights, or another sight which can be drilled without the fiber rod installed, is the least troublesome option.

The pin opening in the sight blade MUST be accurately drilled, or You won't be able to drive the pin through that new blade, successfully.

If You can find a "Smith" to change the front sight for You, that is probably the very best way to go, if one has no experience performing that procedure.

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It is....what it is!

I have a 4" 617 10 shot. I perfer the balance and feel of the 4" over the 6".