I have owned only semi autos for many years. All different makes, operating mechanisms, trigger types, etc. I am getting the itch to try the dark side and get a revolver. I was surprised at how many choices there seem to be. I would like it to be small and light weight with an internal hammer for potential carry. I'm looking mostly at Ruger and S&W. I'm thinking .38 +P because I heard that a .357 in a snub doesn't achieve full burn and therefore you don't achieve the full power anyway? Questions: is a laser worth getting? Does a revolver have a drop safety (if I drop it on a hard surface could it go off, or is there some kind of hammer block)? Material - aluminum vs scandium vs what else? Recommendation on models to look at? Is a 5 shot the standard for this size? What other things to consider?

Probably the best concealed hammer revolver is the S&W M642 Centennial. It is a 5 shot .38 Special that is approved for +P loads.It weighs about 15 ounces. I read somewhere it is the company's best selling revolver.
It is absolutely "drop safe", as are all S&W revolvers built after WWII. They run less than $500 new. The M442 is the same gun but with a blued finish. I think the M642 is better for carry because it is stainless and aluminum. Both are great carry guns. Try one and I'll bet you'll agree.
Jim

I personally don't think a laser is worth the extra money (usually $100+). I've always heard guys at the gun shop say it's a deterrence for criminals, but I don't think there's any solid proof on that. If a criminal sees my barrel in his face that to me is enough of a deterrence.

I've got a Crimson Trace on a 642 (only because it came that way and I got a deal), and though the grips are comfortable I notice that after shooting the laser gets dirtied up and I have to spend time cleaning it, which takes me longer to clean than the gun itself.

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Ephesians 6 (Armor of God)

My daily carry is a 642 with Crimson Trace grips. Most altercations of a serious nature occur in less than perfect light. The laser flat out works. It is also quite useful when you have to take a shot from a cramped position where you can't get the sights to eye level.

FWIW
Dale53

I don't think a laser has much practical value. A police officer and I set up some BUG gun stages following a regular USPSA match. A very good open shooter brought his new j frame with a laser and was very slow I think primarily due to trying to shoot to precisely with the laser.Us old low tech guys kicked his butt. In fairness I think he would have improved his speed if he had used the laser like a flash sight picture and quit trying to shoot too carefully. We were shooting at typical short self defense distances.

I tried the flash sight picture once when a friend who is a retired police officer asked me to try his Kimber short barrel 45 with a laser. Using the flash sight picture technique it felt fast but then I wasn't being timed or shooting against anyone. I really don't think there would be much value in terms of speed with a laser over just using a flash sight picture at close range but then my opinion is based on my limited experience with lasers.

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I like Ike.

I carry a Model 640 and really like it. I tried both a Diamondback and Kimber pistol but they don't compare for the reliability and ease of using this gun.

101 questions, I can give you 101 answers, but I'll limit it to a few. First off, congradulations on your wise choice to migrate away from the bottom feeders. I can sum it up with this: Add up all the possible malfuntions of a semi-auto in good condition vs all the possible failures with a revolver in good condition. I'm not going to list them here, but there are many more on the semi-auto side. If you are a believer in Murhpy...
First off, I would recommend you NOT limit yourself to .38 spl. Yes, a .357 magnum loses velocity in shorter barrels (about 100 fps per inch) you can still get double the energy from a .357 mag load from a snubby vs .38 spl. I carry Double Tap w/gold dots (bonded defense) 158 grains that are good for upwards of 540 ft pounds of energy from my 640.
DoubleTap Bonded Defense S&W 640 - YouTube Yes, the recoil is fairly punishing, but manageable. You will not get the same performance from ALL .357 mag loads BTW. For example, I tested Buffalo Bore "HEAVY" .357 mag in a Ruger LCR and it was actually SLOWER than their Tactical Short Barrel or their .38 special +P. Made a hell of a fire ball though. (Bullet weight in all loads equal). Double Tap seems to be an exception to the general rule by producing a load that gives really good velocities from short barrels and NO muzzle flash.

Next you need to decide if you want a light alloy gun or something made of pure steel. I own a 642 at 15 oz, and I also had an LCR (.357) at 17 oz. I now carry the 640 at 23 oz. Why did I end up with the 640 you ask? The LCR used to be my EDC, and I practiced with it ALOT. Unfortunately, it did not stand up well to the steady diet of .357 mag loads I fed it and was scrapped out after only about 1200 rounds. I actually came very close to replacing it with an M&P 340, but decided I was not "Manly" enough to handle the extreme recoil impulse of that gun and also reasoned that the alloy frame may not be up to heavy abuse any more than that pinned together plastic *** the LCR was.
I thought I'd give the all steel snub a try and see if I could handle the extra weight. I'll tell you right now, compared to the LCR I used to carry, the extra 6 oz is really not that noticable.

My current small light weight Concealed Carry revolver is a 442 Pro Moon Clip. It is +P Rated, Reloads a little quicker with moon clips, than with the commonly available HKS or Safariland Comp I speed loaders. California Competition Works is now making a J Frame 5 shot moon clip carrier called a Shoot A Moon (SAM) that works with both J Frame 38 and 9mm Moon Clips. With it you can belt carry a reload or two infront of the revolver on the belt. I belt carry my 442 most of the time in a Lobo Model 1 Pancake at 4 O'Clock.
I have installed "Lime Green" Sight Brite sight paint on the upper 1/3 of my front sight serations. This really helps to pick up the front sight. Finish 442 vs 642. I am not sure if all 442's have the same finish. The finish on my 442 Pro Moon Clip is just fine. I much prefer it to my previous S&W J Frame a 638.
The 442 Pro Moon Clip can be loaded with Loose Rounds, Speed Strips, HKS Speed Loaders, Safariland Comp I Speed Loaders, J Frame Jet Loader, as well as Moon Clips.
The only source I have seen for the 442 Pro Moon Clip is Bud's.

I have also owned an LCR 357. It is a hair heavier than the LCR 38, and J Frame Air Weight S&W's. This is not totally a bad thing as it helps soak up recoil a little more. I would shoot low velocity 38 Special practice ammo in it for practice, and carry 38+P or Speer 135 grain Short barrel 357 Magnum in it for CC.
One big advantage the LCR has is a pined on front sight. It can be easily changed to Fiber Optic or a 24/7 Tritium Night Sight.

Next up would be Steel J Frame size revolvers. They are still small just heavier to pack. The packing part is not a problem if you belt carry in a quality holster such as a Lobo Model 1 Pancake or Rays Enhanced Pancake. The Steel J's are too heavy for me to put up with pocket carrying, though some do with no problem.
The Steel J's such as the 640, 60, 649, 49, 36, and Ruger SP101's are not a bad choice at all if you plan to belt carry. They are still small, and being heavier they are more shootable than the air weights. Some models of the above have pinned front sights. I wish that all models did. Barrel choices are 2 Inch 2-1/2" and 3 Inch to round them off. All have advantages. The 2 is a little easier to conceal, the 3" is more accurate in aimed fire, and the 2-1/2 is a little of both.
My next revolver will probably be in this group. I am leaning towards a 3" this time. I have had 2" one's in the past.
I am a S&W Guy, however I have zero issues owning a Ruger SP101 either. It is a quality revolver and all have a pinned on front sight.

I think I would include Snub K Frames also. My most carried revolver would be my Custom 3" 66-2. I also have an Air Weight K, the 315 Night Guard. My Barbeque Gun is a 2" 15-4, a nicely blued Beauty in new condition. The K's are reguarded my most S&W Fans as the most Shootable Revolver ever made by S&W. I think I would agree with that statement.
I have 2 SSR Revolvers. My old gun is a Police Trade In 64-2 (K Frame). My new just completed SSR is a 686-5 (L Frame). Ron Power "Power Custom" has worked on both of them. In the last couple matches I have shot both revolvers. The old 64 has turned in a better time both matches. Not by much, but still ahead of the 686-5.
A 2", 2-1/2" or 3" K Frame is not a bad choice for Concealed Belt Carry either.

Another thing I will bring up. An understudy revolver. If you are going to shoot an Air Weight J Frame, I recommend getting a small 22 such as the LCR 22 Ruger has out. Now what you need to do is try and wear it out. Take it to the range, down to the creek, or where ever, and shoot bricks of 22 ammo through it. I have the LCR 22, and it has really improved my 38 J Frame accuracy. The 22 is about like Dry Firing the 38 with target feed back. I find that firing the 22 is much better than dry firing the 38. Both help to build up your trigger finger, steady your hold, etc.

OH by the way, you are moving away from the Dark Side going to a revolver.

Enjoy what ever you decide on.

Bob

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ICORE MO2908

I have a S&W Model 60 in .357. The weight of an all-steel snubbie is not bad. I shoot .38 Special +P out of it. I also have a Ruger LCR357 which is a bit lighter. Both are very nice guns. The price point on the Ruger is a lot less if you are on a budget.

Most modern revolvers use either hammer block or transfer bar safety systems. The trigger needs to be fully pulled back for the firing pin to contact the primer. They will not fire if dropped.

On the 640 and other Centennials there is no extra hammer block per se as the hammer is completely enclosed. However there is the standard hammer block on the rebound slide that is somewhat redundant.

Listen to BobR1 and check out the K frames. You won't be disappointed. Soon you will know the power of the dark side. ;-)

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Airborne ! H-Minus!

Within your parameters, S&W offers the Centennial design and Ruger offers its LCR.

Both are safe against a drop due to automatic, internal safeties. While the operating principle is different, they accomplish the same thing. Assuming proper operation and all parts present, you are ok to carry both fully loaded and a drop will not cause a discharge.

As to the weight, the Ruger only comes one way, while the S&W comes in stainless steel (heaviest), scandium (expensive) and aluminum (light and does not break the bank).

If you want the S&W, the best choice would seem to be the 442 (blue) or the 642 (stainless barrel and cylinder). Both have aluminum frames and are called "Airweight." "Airlight" is the name S&W gives its scandium revolvers.

I do not care for scandium as it is too expensive and they are often, though not always, paired with a titanium cylinder. I especially do not like titanium cylinders as there are all sorts of warnings about what you can or cannot do or use in cleaning and doing or using the wrong thing can result in removal of the apparently fragile finish from the cylinder which will apparently result in very fast erosion and permanent damage to the revolver.

As to the laser, I would not get one. If you change your mind later, you can buy the grip with the laser and simply switch grips.

As to the Magnum, I would not get one. I don't know about burning all the powder in the short barrel, but a Magnum round is just too unpleasant to shoot.

Five rounds is standard unless you go to a bigger frame. The one exception is the Taurus 856, which is a 6 shot about the size of the old Colt D frame. A nice idea, but we don't buy Taurus around here.

Since I like the extra corrosion resistance of stainless, I vote for the Model 642 (no key lock version of course).

Once you try a K you will want to try an "N Frame" in 3.5 to 4 inches. Trust me... I started with a simple M60...It is an addition!

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Existimo ergo sum armis

I carry a 442 in an owb holster. It has a Pachmayr Compact grip and a Laserlyte sidemounted laser. I don't generally depend on my laser for sighting and use it mostly for dryfire practice. I put the laser light on something and keep it there while I pull the trigger. I also use it for point shooting practice. I'll point the gun at something then activate the laser to see how close I am. It is fun at the range putting a hole where the red dot glows.

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Dare I say it? I also own a Taurus 651 with CT grip. I think the laser might be useful in low light or maybe weak hand shooting? I dunno, I tried weak hand yesterday with the 640 and got some VERY bizarre results. Not hitting anywhere near where I thought I was aiming.

Couple of days ago I bought my wife a new 642 as her new conceal carry weapon to replace the older heavier model 60 Chief Special. Paid $409 which I consider a pretty good deal since the Ruger LCR I was looking at was $50 more.

Not to mention it keeps her from taking my M&P 360 away from me. LOL

You could also look into the 438/638. Basically the same gun as the 442/642 but has a shrouded hammer so you have the choice of sa/da. I carry this one a lot!

The J frame snubby in .357 Magnum has a lot going for it. It rests easily in a DeSantis pocket holster. It is easy to draw and shoot.
An all steel revolver has the mildest recoil; an aluminum-scandium has a very sharp and unpleasant recoil. Naturally, the lighter revolver is easier to carry; the heavier one is easier to shoot.
I carry much more than I shoot, so that made the decision for me.

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Fuego

Myself and my girl went out last year and bought a 442 5 shot centennial NO LOCK for me and a 642 5 shot centennial NO LOCK for her (the girls like the silver). Carry em everyday with safariland speedloaders with .38Spec.+P rounds. Skip the lasers....go the range and learn how to shoot em properly. Takes practice with the extra short barrels, trench sights, light weight, and double action only. But once you master them they are tack drivers.

All modern S&W revolvers have "drop" safeties - actually called hammer block or transfer bars. The bar drops out of the way only when you press the trigger or manually cock the hammer. The S&W J-frames with concealed hammers, i.e. the 442 or 642 are good bets and don't cost an arm and a leg. S&W makes the lighter scandium and titanium framed guns, but while tough, the recoil is more pronounced as the weight drops (not that a standard aluminum framed 442 is all that pleasant to shoot). If you stumble across an original 640 (steel frame in .38 Special) grab it, as it is a better shooter. I'm not a fan of the laser, but Crimson Trace laser grips seem to offer a pretty secure, comfortable grip. Laser or not, train with the gun. Dry fire in a safe environment teaches you familiarity with a revolver's trigger. Practice loading with speedloaders, strips, and individual rounds. With proper training, a revolver is every bit a fighting handgun. And the little J's are a lot more accurate than many want to admit.

Lots of good information!

I'm pro Crimson Trace for my M&P 340. In fact, I have a set on a couple of other handguns. I wouldn't stand a chance of getting a descent sight picture if my glasses were to be knocked off during a scuffle. Just another tool in the toolbox should the need arise.

The lighter 38 special revolvers have noticeable recoil compared to a pistol. I have used Airweight S&W and they are great for carry.

I prefer to shoot the S&W model 60 in 357/38special OR a SP101 in 357/38 special.

I would recommend looking at each of these as they are GREAT shooters. A little harder to carry...

the S&W 442 or 642 is my suggestion for pocket carry, but they are harder to master in terms of recoil. I bought some light loads to practice with.

Just did a trigger job on my new 640 and it had no hammer block, nor the channel in the side plate for it to ride in. There is the bump on the rebound slide that prevents the hammer from moving until the trigger is pulled however.

Did you do your own polishing? Looks really good.

I'm thinking about polishing the cylinder on my 360.