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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 03-19-2013, 12:08 AM
SnubNose SnubNose is offline
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Default 637 cylinder skipping

I picked up a used Model 637 Airweight a while back and noticed one of the cylinders skips when rapid firing in dry fire. I haven't tried it with live ammo yet. Only one cylinder does this and you have to squeeze off pretty quick, but it's consistent. Peening on the cylinder stop notches seems to be about equal between them all.

Can this be solved with a new cylinder stop spring or should I look for a new cylinder?
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Old 03-19-2013, 12:03 PM
kaaskop49 kaaskop49 is offline
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Either send it back to S&W (if possible with a 2nd owner) or take it to a gunsmith. You will get different opinions from different folks: it's the hand, it's the bolt, it's the ratchet... Let a competent smith tell you what is wrong and then fix it. The 637 is a carry gun: it's gotta work!
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Old 03-19-2013, 01:21 PM
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I agree about having a good revolversmith look at it. But I'm curious exactly what you mean by "skip"? Please elaborate.
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnubNose View Post
I picked up a used Model 637 Airweight a while back and noticed one of the cylinders skips when rapid firing in dry fire. I haven't tried it with live ammo yet. Only one cylinder does this and you have to squeeze off pretty quick, but it's consistent. Peening on the cylinder stop notches seems to be about equal between them all.

Can this be solved with a new cylinder stop spring or should I look for a new cylinder?
As long as the timing is good and the cylinder stop's not rounded over, I think I'd probably start with a new cylinder stop spring.
However, if you're not familiar with what goes on behind the side plate, I'd recommend taking it to a gun smith.

Last edited by snubbyfan; 03-19-2013 at 11:25 PM.
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:26 AM
SnubNose SnubNose is offline
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Thanks for the advice fellas. I know of a very competent revolversmith and will have him look at it. I'm roughly familiar with the inner workings and it might be something I could do myself if it's just the cylinder stop spring. The notch looks to be pretty good and I'm having a hard time understanding why it's just that one chamber that skips.

Hotrod, skipping can occur when the cylinder stop is timed too late, the cylinder stop notches cut into the cylinder have become heavily worn, or the cylinder stop spring has weakened. As the cylinder spins, the stop in the bottom of the frame - for one reason or another - does not engage the next notch and the cylinder travels past the intended chamber. This usually results in a misfire.

In my case I can squeeze the trigger quickly enough that I can completely skip the chamber in question and go directly to the next one. For example, the firing order would go as follows: 1 - 2 - 3 - 5. Chamber 4 would skip and retain a loaded cartridge. It only exhibits this under VERY fast double action, and as I said I haven't tried it yet with live ammo.

I think I'll try the cylinder stop spring first. Looking at Wolff's website I only see these available in K, L, and N frame. Can anyone tell me if they're identical for the J frame as well? Thanks fellas!

Last edited by SnubNose; 03-21-2013 at 01:32 AM.
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:38 AM
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Quick bump, still seeking an answer. Thanks all.
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Old 04-02-2013, 04:00 PM
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My .02, Sounds like you are short stroking the trigger. There is a spot when you let off that will allow you to pull the trigger, advance the cyl and not lift the hammer.
e.
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