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10-17-2013, 07:51 AM
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I think I would buy an X frame if that was a factory option.
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10-17-2013, 06:25 PM
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I wish they were all made like the Dan Wesson concept but it faster & cheaper for S&W to do it the current way.
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10-17-2013, 06:55 PM
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Outstanding work and info/details.
I was wondering if it might be possible for you to take the original end piece/cap and ream the inside of it to fit over your new nut (you might have to turn down the outside diameter of the nut to do it). As nice a job as you did at radiusing the end of the under lug, maybe you could mill off the bottom portion of that end piece and have a nice finished looking piece to hide the nut you made. You could use some sort of set screw to hold it on. Maybe even drill through it and into your nut enough to thread it and then run the set screw into your threaded hole?
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10-17-2013, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gun 4 Fun
Outstanding work and info/details.
I was wondering if it might be possible for you to take the original end piece/cap and ream the inside of it to fit over your new nut (you might have to turn down the outside diameter of the nut to do it). As nice a job as you did at radiusing the end of the under lug, maybe you could mill off the bottom portion of that end piece and have a nice finished looking piece to hide the nut you made. You could use some sort of set screw to hold it on. Maybe even drill through it and into your nut enough to thread it and then run the set screw into your threaded hole?
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It's entirely possible & doable.
I originally thought about ways to hide or cover the barrel nut but it's kind of grown on me. I like the idea mentioned earlier about milling slots around the circumference of the nut for cosmetics. I have a couple other projects I am playing with and if I get bored I will make one of them there fancy nuts!
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10-18-2013, 03:12 AM
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EWK does make a barrel nut replacement brake (for the DW) to give you an idea what one looks like.
Your comment about hammering the front threads is cogent though.
The big DW in 445 doesn't really need one either.
Dan Wesson Muzzle Brake
The 12" Encore that is on my way has a screw off brake with thread protector.
Bullberry Brakes
I am always going to want the option of taking the thing off and believe
the external expansion brake is the only way to go for cast bullets.
You machine tool guys have the coolest toys!
Thanks for keeping us entertained as well
===
Nemo
Last edited by Nemo288; 10-18-2013 at 03:17 AM.
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10-18-2013, 08:02 AM
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Interesting project and I like the results.
The down side to my 4" is the brake. I'd much prefer a non-comped fully rifled 4" tube (5" is my 2nd preference) opposed to what the factory puts out.
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10-19-2013, 12:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisj357
I like the mod Cal50 has done . I have this gun and I really like it, but if I could remove the inner barrel and replace it with one that's NOT drilled to match the porting I would. I think it would lessen the noise. I don't mind the recoil, but this thing is way loud.
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I'm with you 100%. I have a 6.5 inch 500 like yours and a 4 inch. I'd like to find a skilled machinist like Cal50 who could make a blank (no holes) compensator for the 4 inch 500, and like you I'd like to have a non-ported barrel installed on my 6.5 inch 500.
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10-19-2013, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WPWarhawk
I'd like to find a skilled machinist like Cal50 who could make a blank (no holes) compensator for the 4 inch 500.
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I've got one (comp) and like it.
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10-19-2013, 04:44 AM
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What mechanism, if any, do these big guns have for forward cylinder locking? They don't seem to have any provision for locking bolts up front.
Larry
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10-19-2013, 05:11 AM
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They have a front cylinder lock in the yoke in the same general location as the third lock of the old 44 Triple Lock but a far different and simpler design.
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10-19-2013, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WPWarhawk
I'd like to find a skilled machinist like Cal50 who could make a blank (no holes) compensator for the 4 inch 500, and like you I'd like to have a non-ported barrel installed on my 6.5 inch 500.
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I am not sure why S&W dropped the solid comp for the .460 which was an easy one to modify for a no-hole comp for the 500's.
I want to find one or make one for my un-modified 8 3/8" barrel / comped 500.
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10-19-2013, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondo44
They have a front cylinder lock in the yoke in the same general location as the third lock of the old 44 Triple Lock but a far different and simpler design.
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This is finally becoming standard for big-bore DA revolvers.
Ruger nailed their version in the Redhawk. Charter not so much.
Was there not a guy on the forum here who was making and selling those blank comp inserts for awhile?
===
Nemo
Last edited by Nemo288; 10-19-2013 at 09:48 PM.
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10-21-2013, 01:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemo288
Was there not a guy on the forum here who was making and selling those blank comp inserts for awhile?
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Nemo
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There was at one time.
There might be enough space / material to sleeve the inside of the comp.
Measuring it is on my "to do sometime" list.
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03-21-2014, 10:21 PM
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What beautiful workmanship.. and pure skill..
And I thought I was doing good by drawing a straight line with a ruler!! EPIC FAIL!!
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DAV in honor of POP
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03-22-2014, 12:38 AM
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I am in the process of looking for a 7 1/2" Performance Center 500 which the comp retains the barrel ( like a nut ) from what I have seen. I can pop the comp off and make a new "nut".
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06-16-2015, 03:19 PM
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Found this thread browsing around looking for more information about the John Ross M500. I'd love to get my hands on one, but I'm starting to think that ship has sailed.
Amazing project and great outcome. Really an enjoyable read. It's funny how when I first read about the external barrel nut, I turned my nose up, but the more pictures I see of it (and yours), the more I like it.
Great job.
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06-16-2015, 05:10 PM
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Dozens of Dan Wesson owners can't be wrong!
I was going to suggest that you visit John's website but I see it has disappeared.
I believe John is/was a forum member here so search for his threads and maybe PM him for further info.
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Nemo
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07-01-2017, 06:41 PM
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7/1/2017
Updated pic links and changed pic hosting from photobucket to Imgur.
Lost some pics and trying to sort other out.
Apologies but still sorting the mess out.
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Last edited by cal50; 07-01-2017 at 06:45 PM.
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07-01-2017, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cal50
Think of it as my pistol having a massive nose job....
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You about made me snort my ice tea through my nose.
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07-01-2017, 09:13 PM
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Sweet work.
If everyone was satisfied with what the factory was selling it would be a very boring world for me.
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07-04-2017, 04:28 PM
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Other than the bandsaw method, how would you get all that stuff apart?
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07-04-2017, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThaDoubleJ
Other than the bandsaw method, how would you get all that stuff apart?
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S&W uses a "wrench" with the rifling profile ( from what I was told ).
A simple DIY method would be using Cerrosafe low temp casting metal.
Plug the bore about 3" from the muzzle , pour some melted cerrosafe in the muzzle then insert a standard Allen wrench. Let cool and it should break it lose......
Since I did not care about putting my original parts back on the bandsaw was fast and easy.
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10-01-2017, 07:10 PM
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Neat job Cal50! Why not remove the barrel and cut it from the throat end? Then cut the shroud to fit the new barrel length. That way you can retain the original flange and muzzle.
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10-02-2017, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmj8591
Neat job Cal50! Why not remove the barrel and cut it from the throat end? Then cut the shroud to fit the new barrel length. That way you can retain the original flange and muzzle.
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I wanted to get rid of the brake and simplicity of the Dan Wesson style barrel attachment is something I REALLY like after owning a few DW guns. I can use my "spanner" wrench and easily tweak my BC gap or take it down completely.
If I cut the breech end of the barrel I would have a longer section of barrel to thread to fit my frame and similar work to the shroud.
There are other ways to do it and its a personal preference and what you have to work with balance.
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10-03-2017, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cal50
I wanted to get rid of the brake and simplicity of the Dan Wesson style barrel attachment is something I REALLY like after owning a few DW guns. I can use my "spanner" wrench and easily tweak my BC gap or take it down completely.
If I cut the breech end of the barrel I would have a longer section of barrel to thread to fit my frame and similar work to the shroud.
There are other ways to do it and its a personal preference and what you have to work with balance.
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Still a neat job. Well done!
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10-03-2017, 09:24 PM
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WOW
What a talent, and a skill level to make me envious. Thanks so much for the "tour".
I know from building some furniture (w/wood) that a person doesn't pick this kinda skill up in a short time.
Thanks again.
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10-05-2017, 08:46 PM
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If you are handy with tools and have an idea you can make something good happen or make the S&W repair shop happy and make their show and tell day more interesting.
I am down to two "keeper" 500's.
My shorty and my stock PC 500.
I would still do it over again but it is a unique feeling cutting your barrel off and being "all in" past than point.
S&W might not like it but I really do and my PC 500 as well.
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04-01-2019, 01:10 PM
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You wouldn't happen to still have your old compensator would you?
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04-01-2019, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sublime17
You wouldn't happen to still have your old compensator would you?
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You won't be able to use this comp on your gun relevant to your other post.
You have to replace the shroud specif to your model 500.
be safe
Ruggy
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04-01-2019, 04:12 PM
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I love the idea and the execution. You're truly a craftsman. Very enjoyable to read through.
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04-01-2019, 04:31 PM
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Chrisj357 - is it possible to remove your ported liner, rotate it 180 degrees and reinstall. I have never played with the two piece barrel, so...
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04-01-2019, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefbob81
Chrisj357 - is it possible to remove your ported liner, rotate it 180 degrees and reinstall. I have never played with the two piece barrel, so...
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The way I understand the way the 6.5 ported two piece barrel works there is no adjustment. The barrel is simply torqued down against the shroud. You could I suppose shorten the shroud that way the ports could be not lined up at the proper torque setting but then you would have to re-cut the forcing cone. Sounds possible
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04-01-2019, 06:49 PM
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Neat work. It doesn't completely eliminate the need for wheels for transport, but should significantly improve gas mileage when towing...
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04-01-2019, 06:57 PM
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Very nice work, I doubt that too many of the readers realize the skill needed to internal thread the i.d. with a small insert with 36 tpi, again very nicely done!!! When I did comps on gov models I used a 1/4 dia. single point Hardinge tool for i.d. threads. Jeff
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04-10-2019, 08:46 PM
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Does anybody happen to have the non removable comp off an 8 3/8 500 that they would want to get rid of?
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04-10-2019, 10:05 PM
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OP, have you worked on any 9310 tool steel before? I'm just interested in how durable you think it is for high PSI applications such as in an AR-15 bolt/barrel extension/chamber... Thanks in advance!
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04-11-2019, 08:59 AM
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Just realized when this was started.
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04-11-2019, 09:12 AM
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The last Time that I checked no one made a Plug Insert to remove the barrel/Shroud from the X Frames. As far as I Know S&W won't sell one. Does anyone know why
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04-11-2019, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nipperdog
The last Time that I checked no one made a Plug Insert to remove the barrel/Shroud from the X Frames. As far as I Know S&W won't sell one. Does anyone know why
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S&W does not sell the tooling to disassemble/assemble any of X-frame models barrel shroud systems.
The 500 use a single barrel insertion tool for the entire line , while each barrel length 460 requires a different tool.
S&W did sell solid comps for the 460 briefly. I was told that individuals had problems installing them correctly and guns were being returned when individuals could not remove them, hence they sell them no longer.
I have several and they can be difficult to install and remove as there is no surface to grip to turn them. Comps present no issue as you have holes to insert the L wrench provided by S&W with your gun.
You should also know that the comps between the 460 and 500 are not interchangeable.
Several individuals have machined inserts that fit inside the comp to close them off for both the 460 and 500. I have several of these and find them easier to use, but all the ones I have received required some hand fitting.
There are several threads in forum in the past.
Again to cal50 - very well executed.
Be safe
Ruggy
Last edited by ruggyh; 04-11-2019 at 11:02 AM.
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