629-3 double action problem

dwade7551 said:

It could be a number of things:
1. Your double action sear is not correctly cut.
2. You have long ratchet(s)
3. Your hammer is hitting the interal portion of the latch, or what Smith & Wesson calls the bolt.
4. Your cylinder is binding due to bent extractor rod/center pin.
5. You have high pins on your trigger or hammer.
6. Your mainspring tension screw has backed out to the point that your hammer has "knuckle". (Rare)

Make sure you mainspring screw is all the way in.

Pull your hammer back just far enough to make the bolt stop unlock the cylinder and see if you can easily spin the cylinder by hand. If the cylinder does not easily spin you have something binding the cylinder.

Try holding the thumb latch all the way to the rear and try your double action pull. If the problem goes away your the rear of your hammer is hitting the bolt. Your bolt needs to be refit.

Pull your front side plate screw and remove your cylinder. Hold the thumb latch rearward and try your double action pull. If the problem goes away you have an incorrectly fit ratchet/hand.

If you feel comfortable remove your side plate and visually check to see if anything is impeding the trigger rebound assembly. Look for obvious gouges on the inside of the side plate that indicats that a pin in the hammer or trigger is rubbing on the side plate.

Remove everything from the gun but the hammer and the trigger. Using your fingers to simulate mainspring pressure on the hammer pull your trigger to the rear and see if you still have a rough double action pull. If you do your double action sear if probably the problem.

Dale

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dwade7551 said:

If you remove the side plate please be careful that you properly put the hammer block in proper position before attempting to put the side plate back on. If you have the hammer block out of position it will keep you from putting the side plate on properly and if you force it you will damage your gun.

Also, if you decide to remove your side plate remove the screws and then rap the grip frame area of your pistol with a wood or plastic hammer. DO NOT PRY the side plate up to remove it. They are very closely fit and prying them up will damage the close fit between the frame and the side plate.

Dale

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dwade7551 said:

That pin is found in some guns and is used as a trigger stop. It might be that it is just a tiny bit too long. Put the gun back together and leave the pin out. See if that is the problem.

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dwade7551 said:

Yes. In the older model revolvers the trigger stop was a piece in the back of the trigger guard. I have only occasionally seen a revolver with the pin in the rebound spring. It is not necesary to the correct operation to the revolver. Take it out and see if it is the problem. If it is and you want to put it back in you can file it and shorten it until it no longer causes a problem.

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k22fan said:

Welcome to the forum simon92g. It’s unlikely I’ll ever write a different language as well as you use English and you write better than some of the locals. We’re glad to have you as a member and this gives you another place to practice writing English.

Assuming the 629 functions single action the trigger stop is allowing the hammer to rotate back further than it does in double action so I don’t think a too long trigger stop could be the problem.

The “rattle” you’re hearing while shaking the revolver could be the hammer block as well as the trigger stop pin. In either case you need only stop shaking the revolver next to your ear.

I would mark a chamber with felt pen and test to see if the resistance at the end of the double action pull always occurs at the same chamber(s). If it does that eliminates all of the internal parts except for the hand thickness.

I suspect the most likely problem is the hand binding between the frame and one or more ratchets because you wrote the DA resistance occurs near the end of the double action pull. DA resistance from a bent yoke or zero flash gap does not necessarily occur at the end of the DA pull and you wrote the 629 is in like new condition.

Even though your 629 appears to be as NIB you may as well look for drag marks on the front of the cylinder. Usually only a chamber or two will drag on the barrel after wear from lot of firing creates end shake.

Also while holding the revolver and its open yoke on a table with the ejector rod visually aligned with a straight line spin the cylinder and look for ejector rod wobble. Too much run out can be a clue the yoke is bent. Sometimes other wise NIB revolvers get bent yokes from owners flipping their cylinders shut with a twist of the wrist Hollywood style.

Finally, remember your 629 is new enough to be covered by S&W’s lifetime warranty even if you are not its first owner. I don’t know how the international border affects this, but within the U.S. S&W usually mails owners a prepaid shipping label to send guns in for warrant repair so the repair costs nothing.

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